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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

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  1. Mr Engineer

    Mr Engineer Well-Known Member

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    Girlfriend caught me fixing myself

    [​IMG]
     
    11 people like this.
  2. Bill Dlwgosh

    Bill Dlwgosh Well-Known Member

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    ^ would Spandexter's jacket be considered to be at the very short end of the wearable spectrum? I ask because I recently bought a jacket on Ebay (From GMMcL actually) which fits me about the same, at least lengthwise.
     
  3. TM79

    TM79 Well-Known Member

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    Are you asking because of how it looks in relation to his thumbs in the second pic? If so, I think that's deceiving because of the position of his arms. Actual length looks totally fine to me.

    ...or he could just have some pretty long arms.

    Jacket looks bespoke but unsure if it is or not.
     
  4. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    I don't think the jacket is short, I think his arms are long. Looks fine to me, btw.
     
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  5. Shoeluv

    Shoeluv Well-Known Member

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    I thought that too, I was always taught that a jacket would fall into your cupped hands and his doesn't look like it would. Then I looked at the true measure of a coat, that it covers your posterior and this jacket looks like it does. So he probably has long arms, but that jacket looks awesome.
     
  6. Tried and True

    Tried and True Well-Known Member

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    IMO, minimum length should be that which covers your rear end. When viewed from the front, if the jacket hem hits the crotch of your trousers it will assure that your rear is covered.


    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. Spandexter

    Spandexter Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the thumbs and comments guys. Jacket is OTR Boglioli. I have long-ish arms for my size so that may be a factor in it looking slightly short.
     
    2 people like this.
  8. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

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    Yes, the ‘cupped hand rule’ was in part a marketing invention which went viral with the mass production of ready-to-wear suits and jackets. It made it possible for untrained salespeople at department stores and similar retail establishments to at least get within the right ballpark, which is where generations of men got most if not all of their information about fit. The problem with it is that arm length can vary significantly between men of the same height.
    .
    The ‘cover the buttocks’ in the rear and ‘to the point where the two trouser inseams meet’ in the front is pretty much the ‘neutral position’ for tailors, on the other hand, who may then shorten or lengthen things a little bit if needed to accommodate aspects of the client’s physique.

    Note, however, that certain aspects of the cut can create an illusion of shortness, especially in photographs, at least until one looks more carefully; the more open the quarters, for example, the more likely this momentary illusion.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    2 people like this.
  9. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    Personally I've never put much in that rule. I went by it when I first started buying jackets but I soon found out that if I followed it too closely I ended up looking weird. I can totally see it being something for untrained employees to go by.
     
  10. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

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    From Despos's website (unavailable right now): 'A good rule of thumb is that the two-button jacket should cover your seat by 1".'

    Cheers

    Ac
     
  11. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    +1. Provided the jacket does indeed cover the rear end (which is a MUST), aim for this:

    [​IMG]

    FWIW, I think @Spandexter 's jacket is perfect. And not just the length!
     
    8 people like this.
  12. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    The above is what I shoot for. Good call, Elio, that was what I was about to post.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. Bill Dlwgosh

    Bill Dlwgosh Well-Known Member

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    I was making the mistake of gauging a jackets length by where it fell against the hand. Like Spandexter I also have longer arms, I guess, which was throwing my understanding of whether or not my own jackets were the right length. I'm glad I asked as I won't make that mistake going forward. Thanks all.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2015
  14. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

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  15. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Well-Known Member

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    The poll for the Friday Challenge is up.

    Go VOTE!!!.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2015
  16. PCK1

    PCK1 Well-Known Member

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    i don't like the high gorge of spandexter's jacket and i do think it is too short.

    but the fit itself is very nice.
     
  17. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Well-Known Member

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    Here's the big question: is it possible to wear a red blazer "in good taste"? If yes, how? I thought your comments would be along those lines when you mentioned different colors. If the answer is no, then ok. Just ignore my outfit when I wear it. For what it's worth, I appreciate your commentary on my outfits. I haven't spent much time in the good taste thread. I gladly admit to having much to learn. In the end though style is a choice. I've learned a lot about different styles here on SF, but I can't adopt them all. I don't think there is a single aesthetic that everyone should be aiming for, but I do want to at least learn so I can have the option.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Well-Known Member

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    I left some names out so I had to redo the poll. If you voted before I re-did it, go vote again. Sorry.
     
  19. heldentenor

    heldentenor Well-Known Member

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    I've seen red jackets worn in good taste (eidos made one this season in PoW check that Stanley Korshak carried), but the red blazer is such a stretch of idiom for me that I'm not sure it can be done. Red's just such a loud color that it seems to contradict the deeply conservative, borderline conformist look that is the blazer's raison d'etre.

    That said, I don't understand blazers that aren't navy or, ironically enough, Blackwatch, so if it can be done, I probably wouldn't be able to imagine it until it was demonstrated to me.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2015
  20. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't ride to hounds without one- [​IMG]
    No animals were harmed in the making of this post.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2015

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