1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

Tags:
  1. DerekS

    DerekS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,591
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2010
    Location:
    Nashville
    

    :confused:
     
    2 people like this.
  2. DerekS

    DerekS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,591
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2010
    Location:
    Nashville
    

    a white french cuff shirt is without a doubt probably the worst (besides maybe a tux shirt) to put with this fit....
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. Patrick R

    Patrick R Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,686
    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2011
    Location:
    Chicago, IL

    You're responding to a guy that left the house today wearing a tie that was strangling his shirt collar to death, so I'm not above being wrong, but assuming there is some heft to the fabric, I dig the white shirt, especially with that tie.
     
  4. Andy57

    Andy57 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,219
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2014
    Location:
    San Jose, California
    Those socks! (file under: Just When You Think You Know Someone)

    But what a great combination with the color and texture of the jacket.
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2017
    2 people like this.
  5. Andy57

    Andy57 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,219
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2014
    Location:
    San Jose, California
    The best technique with an iPhone is to have someone else take the picture. Actually, that might be the best technique with any camera.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,682
    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2013
    #WSM White Shirts Matter!
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. MrVenneri

    MrVenneri Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    910
    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    For me, when someone goes out of there way to be sincerely constructive and helpful I'll always receive it well. In fact, it means a lot to me that he (or anyone) would take the time to be so well thought out. It's far more hostile and personally insulting on other threads!

    Excellent tip by the way...I could certainly benefit from that. In my undying quest to be unique I often find myself inadvertently adding too much 'extra'. :(

    Again, it's much easier to embrace 'opposing' viewpoints when the source is coming from kind intentions. You never once made it a personal/character critique and in fact, made it quite clear your intentions were the opposite. That's mature, civil, and respectable...so I thank you for your help and consideration. :)

    Ugh, the thought of having to replace my arsenal of trousers makes me want to curl into a ball and cower under my desk. I have spent a small fortune on the Rota brand, which I fell in love with due to those finer details and fabrics that you had mentioned. Admittedly...I have to butcher them to make the fit halfway workable. Talk about putting a square peg through a round hole...I actually order a size 54 and then have the entire waistband recut to shorten it 4"+. That's the only way I can achieve a top block opening that can accommodate my thighs that measure in at 26"-27" (sorry TMI...). I'm also guilty of having them tapered to a 7" leg opening because the 'sloshing' fabric around my ankles really bothers me. Sigh, trousers are the bane of my existence...

    I'll have to look into your RRL suggestion sooner rather than later. (Thank you for the reco!) ...Either that or I need to substitute the squat rack for the treadmill!

    Thank you kindly for all your help and support!
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. DiplomaticTies

    DiplomaticTies Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    604
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2015
    Location:
    Geneva, Switzerland



    I'm not going to defend my choice and I do respect the opinion that the shirt is the item that stands out the most in my fit, just a few facts that may not be visible from the photographs:

    - The shirt is not white, it's ivory
    - The shirt indeed has a french cuff and the fabric is poplin, albeit a sturdy variety
    - The maker, A. Marchesan, specialises in vintage inspired designs, hence the rounded collar.
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2017
  9. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    68,895
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    

    Yeah, so, really, Im a huge jerk. But in reality, I also know that the jerk must be exorcised when critiquing, otherwise it never comes off well.

    Also, it really takes time to critique well and couch it right, and I think most of the time we (myself included) just dont have the time or patience for it, so the critique comes off as snarky simply because they are curt, even though they are meant well. Also, the curtness often leads to misunderstandings of what the actual critique is, which of course complicates things even further.

    I dont know what possessed me to write that critique, I rarely do that, but Im glad I did. Now I kinda want to make a new thread offering people to post a fit for my lengthy and polite, but very honest, comprehensive, and no holds barred, critique. I probably wont tho. :/

    Shoot me a PM, we can discuss this further.

    And most welcome!
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2017
  10. colHolm

    colHolm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    247
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2014
    Location:
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    I like that the last few pages of this thread have been full of thoughtful discussion. I often miss the subtler aspects of a fit, and those more experienced that offer their insight or critique really helps me understand the interplay of colour, texture, formality and overall coherence.

    Thank you!

    Today after about six hours on the road...

    [​IMG]
    (Too dark)

    [​IMG]
    (Better colour representation)

    [​IMG]
     
    15 people like this.
  11. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    68,895
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    Ok so Im really glad you posted the 2nd and 3rd pics because they are game changers. In the first pic almost nothing looks right, matching wise, but in the second and third, almost all of it looks really good.

    However, in the spirit of kind but honest critiquing;

    1. The tie/SC combo could use more contrast imo, or peahens less to the point of matchy, but I think that would still be better than present close but not close enough situation.

    2. Trousers look like they could probably fit better and drape better towards the hem opening.

    3. PS was a safe choice, but perhaps too formal for the rest of the rig and could be improved upon I think.

    4. Shirt collar fabric could use some space by the neck between where the right and left collar fabric are touching each other I believe.

    Apologies for the brevity but I think this one is much more straight forward and I am kinda tired and want to get into pajamas and watch a movie already.

    Bonus points for awesome beard, of course. :thumbs-up:
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2017
  12. colHolm

    colHolm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    247
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2014
    Location:
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    

    No need to apologize, I appreciate the directness. If I may respond without seeming defensive, but with the intention of furthering the discussion, and review of my own assumptions/decision-making process, see below:

    1. This is a cheap old textured black tie that I don't wear much, but have lately tried to use it to see if I can justify a black grenadine in the future. I am still undecided.

    2. My thighs are a bit too big for the pants, or they are too tight for my thighs, which causes the drape issues you mentioned.

    3. Having read many threads on this forum, I am starting to like the use of a white tv fold with blue shirts exclusively (not with white shirts). I thought that with the black tie, black belt and black shoes, the white was a way to induce some lightness to an otherwise saturated colour palette. Maybe too stark or formal in execution. In the context of this fit, what would have been better? Cream?

    4. The neck on this shirt is a bit big, having been purchased about 40 lbs ago. That being said, looking at the pictures, I kind of like how the leading edge of the collar creates a continuous line/curve. Would space between the two sides have broken this up, and would that be preferred?

    Thanks again for the feedback. Enjoy your movie!

    Maybe you should reconsider your thread idea... GNAT 2.0?
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2017
    1 person likes this.
  13. bry2000

    bry2000 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,008
    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2004
    Black grenadines are useful for mid grey flannel or worsted suits and the occasional funeral. Less so for sport coat fits.
     
  14. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,455
    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2010
    Location:
    RWC, CA
    

    I think it was @Sander that said it originally (or at least he's the one I picked it up from), but to me a white square belongs only in a fit that has white in the shirt. The reason, I'm assuming, is that the square really shouldn't be the brightest/lightest element. So yes, I think cream silk would have been better, and then obviously not a TV fold.
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2017
    1 person likes this.
  15. colHolm

    colHolm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    247
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2014
    Location:
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    

    That has been my prevailing sentiment until recently. I do realize I made a fairly broad statement that doesn't necessarily represent a fully formed opinion on my part.

    I think in the context of a worsted suit with blue shirt, a white square is congruent in terms of formality and provides some complementary contrast as opposed to a matching sliver of white in the pocket. Probably not the case with odd jacket fits.

    After some review - looking at pictures of yourself is different in someway than looking in a mirror - I'm leaning towards agreeing with @in sitches that the white was not the right choice. I think cream silk would have been much, much better. Looking at my currently available selection of pocket squares, which didn't include a cream silk one, I'd have been hard pressed to choose something that didn't add a competing element. I have recently placed an order for Kent Wang's Orion square which might have fit nicely here?
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2017
    1 person likes this.
  16. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,959
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    

    [​IMG]
     
    4 people like this.
  17. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    68,895
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    

    Glad we are square. Response welcome. :)

    Well, if its black, that is less of an issue. Looks brown on my monitor; not quite the light brown of the SC but also not dark enough to really set itself apart. IRL, if its black, probably less of an issue.

    In any case, a black grenadine is staple so buy one anyways. =]

    Join the ever growing club, apparently. Best of luck with that, trousers give me fits.

    I cant speak to what anyone else may have said, I am not a repository of SF like many others here, and anyway I never take one person's thought on why X cant be with Y as gospel, but as I see it, it goes like this. A plain white PS is pretty much always ok/safe, and will almost never look bad. However, it still strikes me as more formal in nature. As such, I prefer them with a suit, or with a more formal SC rig. For example, take your fit, swap the check SC for a solid navy SC and the white square is now perfect. This really could be just me though. And I like a white PS just fine with a solid white shirt, too.

    And, fwiw, I have absolutely no issue with a white PS and a solid blue shirt. I think they pair marvelously. I am also unaware of any "official" rule outlawing such a combo.

    Additionally, I personally have a hard time with pairing PSs and checked SCs, and usually go squareless. *ghasp* with my similar SCs. However, a really large scale print, like the RLPL madders, go great with those small check SCs and would probably be excellent in your fit. Cream also would be cool I think.

    I have been guilty of this myself many a time, and it really doesnt bother me that much, but I though I would still point it out because ideally where the collar buttons it should provide a little gap between R & L collar sides and I think it does look prettier that way, although I do see the visual you like. Just officially the little gap is better and I think it does look nicer.

    Pleasure! Couldnt find anything I wanted to watch. :[

    No, not like that. Not a general advise thread. More like, post your fit and I will critique it politely but without holding back. This has been done before plenty, but usually the appeal ends up being in the bystanders watching older seasoned posters destroy fits and vicariously enjoying the carnage. In my theoretical iteration, it would be solely to try and give feedback on fits in a total polite atmosphere. No meanness allowed. Just with the caveat that anyone who offers a fit must know that I may politely tell them that its bad from top to bottom and I will explain why I think that. So, responses post-critique may not be whiny, or, "Well I like it so shut your face."

    Thats kind of the idea. Wanted to do that for a long time but cant get myself to commit.
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2017
  18. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    68,895
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    

    L.O.L.

    My version of brevity is different than the version of most, I believe.
     
  19. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,682
    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2013
    Black Grenadine: yes
    White Linen PS w/solid non-white shirt: me no likey.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    68,895
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    On the topic of white pocket squares with solid blue shirts, this combo won me a Friday Challenge some years back and I think it is fantastic. If I may say so myself. :)



    [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by