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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

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  1. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Well-Known Member

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    I think that the bottom button of a jacket being at or below the waist of your pants is a sign of a good button stance. I think this jacket is a good example of that. Thoughts.
     
  2. SYCSYC

    SYCSYC Well-Known Member

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    Well, gents, your votes clearly stated that I'd better stick to basics.
    So here is today's safer choice:

    [​IMG]

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    SuitSupply
    Charles Tyrwhitt
    Ralph Lauren
    Meermin
     
    28 people like this.
  3. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

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    I think one would need to take trouser rise into consideration before stating this as a general principle, no? (I also like the jacket, by the way.)

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  4. LAluck5

    LAluck5 Well-Known Member

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    Yea I honestly wasn't quite sure whether it went but I don't have any solid ties. I need to just pony up some money and get a couple grenadines for times I have a checkered jacket. I thought that maybe the tie pattern was wide enough that it would be fine with the jacket.
     
  5. Patrick R

    Patrick R Well-Known Member

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    Definitely. Seeing as these pants and coat were made by the same tailor, the balance between the two is intentional. I hadn't ever explicitly thought of the relationship between the bottom button and the waistband of the pants, but it'll probably be in my head now.
     
  6. LAluck5

    LAluck5 Well-Known Member

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    @heldentenor pardon my ignorance, gunclub?
     
  7. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

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    2 people like this.
  8. LAluck5

    LAluck5 Well-Known Member

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  9. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

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    Nice chops TP. I've done exactly this a thousand times, so let me say with a degree of humility and in a spirit of mutual enlightenment that the patterns and colors of the squares imo are competing a little too much with the ties. I often find this a particular drawback with many of Drakes' squares when trying to pair them with a patterned tie. I'm strongly committed to the one FU per fit rule, and particularly with regard to the bottom pic, I don't know where to look, as my eye vacillates between two similar splashes of color and scale. I'd go with a picture square (why the Rubinacci's are so versatile) or cream silk.
    I like the textured cloth of the second SC a lot.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2017
    4 people like this.
  10. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Well-Known Member

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    Bathroom shot....

    [​IMG]
     
    26 people like this.
  11. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

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    Nice shoulders and colors ^^^ @lordsuperb
     
  12. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Hey @Pliny ! Thanks for your thoughts.

    I like the one FU/fit rule, though I suppose what counts as FU elements are somewhat relative. I'll defend the first fit a little more than the second. The madder is quite dusty so subdued irl, and the square, which is almost solid, is intended to pick up the secondary color in the medallion. So I humbly submit that there is no more than one FU element in that fit :)

    The second one might be too arch for a fit: the square was meant to invert a lot of the colors in the tie (which, btw, is in a fabric that I first saw in your fits back in the day and which inspired me to get the same version). The indigo ground of the tie (sort of blue/purple) with green, red and rust in the medallion; the square, rust ground with green and flashes of purple and blue in the pattern. I'm not sure it worked, but just so you know what I was aiming for. I'm not sure a cream square would work in fit 2, but the first square might have been better and sure, if I could afford the Victory square, would have worn it.

    @lordsuperb superb, though might I just add that if you're going to take a selfie, pull the phone slightly to the right of your chest so we can better see the tie. Formosa?
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2017
  13. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

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    @TweedyProf I twigged the color inversion .. Noice. Agree that the 2nd square is less defensible. If I was to be really pedantic (who am I kidding? Guilty.) I'd mention that medallions and neats are suit ties & not for an SC, which again is a rule which, like @Claghorn, I've broken often, though more with solid SCs than patterned, and a flourish I've never really felt fully comfortable with. (Assuming the brown is an SC, and if not, wow, what an FU suit!) The brown with a solid tie, say a silk repp, and a cream square might work.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2017
    1 person likes this.
  14. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Well-Known Member

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    ^ I'd say the first is fine because of the low density of the square's pattern relative to the tie's (which is just a different version of what TP said).

    I'm not sure that I think the second has two FU elements, so much as that the tie and square patterns are both quite dense. If you had folded the square so that more solid ground and less of the print showed, I think the color pairing would have been nice. (I don't really have a big issue with the second as is, though.)
     
    2 people like this.
  15. RFHansen

    RFHansen Well-Known Member

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    Another late night at the office... Caruso SC, Seven Seas shirt, BB twill silk amoeba tie, orange cotton square, BB tan chinos, cream OTC socks by Viccel, shoes by Antica Sartoria Napoletana. Butterfly TT bat.

    [​IMG]
     
    6 people like this.
  16. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

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    My guess is no Formosa, going off nothing but the lapel buttonhole. Steed, perhaps?
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2017
  17. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Ah discussion. Great to chat with you two. As @Mr. Six knows, I'm definitely against small scale tie patterns with sport coats, though with a navy blazer, as in fit 1, I will do smaller scale as in that madder.

    IIRC, @Pliny , you've sported that very tie with gunclubs. Not a gotcha point, since I think that's one of the SF fits I can recall in my memory in a positive way (you should repost it here now, was it a Brooks Brother's coat?). Actually, I don't like the medallion with checked jackets. I recently tried another medallion madder with a shepherd's check, but thought the medallion could only work with something to block part of the tie, here a vest. I would not normally wear this tie with a patterned jacket, too busy, but it's one of 150 winter fits and I felt like wearing a non-solid green tie that day. This is a FU fit, tho... (and note, same square as in fit 2...I would go without square if I did this fit again).

    [​IMG]

    I don't think twice about large scale medallions with solid SCs though (the brown is a SC, a hopsack-y VBC fabric that has a nice texture that I think allows it to be a SC without too much cognitive dissonance).

    I feel like most "rules" should be taken as advice not rigid strictures. I suspect you probably feel the same.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2017
    2 people like this.
  18. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    I should add, though, that these neats pull at me a bit, with that brown coat as a possible pairing:

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    I'd not wear a neat with too loud or informal a jacket, but I'd probably have no problems with most solids provided they weren't too country.

    My most recent trespass, I think:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2017
    17 people like this.
  20. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

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    @TweedyProf I've sinned dozens of times (medallion with SC) but now I'm redeemed and walk in the light of grace. I posted this fit and IIRC Foo loathed it, and Manton said it's an Italian thing and not too horrible. For the record, I don't like it now and would go solid knitted silk and puffed silk with that gunclub.
    [​IMG]
     
    7 people like this.

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