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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

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  1. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Well-Known Member

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    No one is talking about being overdressed. You are missing the point completely.
     
  2. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

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    I really don't think I am. Going from memory (damn iPhone) you said anybody wearing a Neapolitan styled suit would look out of place on Wall Street or "any other business capital outside of Italy, as though it's an indisputable fact.

    I'm simply saying, while it's not entirely inaccurate, it's far from as concrete a rule/idea than you made it out to be, given that I (and presumably many others) have had different experiences.

    Admittedly, I may have swapped "overdressed" with "out of place," for the sake of clarity, but it's speaking almost exactly to at least one of your points.
     
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  3. DiplomaticTies

    DiplomaticTies Well-Known Member

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    OK, I thought it was a discussion and not an interrogation but here is a straight answer: yes, I am in "the meetings" from time to time. I'm not a businessman myself but meet business people on a regular basis, and in different places. When I do it tends to be on a very high level. In fact I did so as recently as last week. And in a room full of pretty influential people I did not see a lot of well dressed men. A few, but not many (some very well dressed women though). One of them, a very well known CEO that I happen to know a little bit, wore bespoke clothes from A&S, he always does, but everything was worn out, frayed, crumpled and stained. In my experience this is not unusual. So I'm not guessing, but I certainly am extrapolating. And have never claimed otherwise.

    This is the only thread I post in in this forum so I have never discussed my experiences of Savile Row tailoring other than posting fits. I have bespoke things from Savile Row, but I also have things that are MTM, RTW and thrifted. From the parts of this forum that I follow I would agree that there seems to be a strong Italian bias, but Savile Row still comes up on a regular basis.
     
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  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    I am an iGent and happily so. A good chunk of why I dress the way I dress is for the internet. All of why I dress the way I dress is because it is fun to do so (though most of my colleagues do wear I jacket and tie when they teach). Though I admit it's silly when someone makes clothing on the internet serious business.

    I think the term has been somewhat appropriated.
     
  5. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Well-Known Member

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    ^ it's interesting to watch the development of these things over time and what happens to them. It's a good place to remind myself that, holy shit, I'm 40. The first time I saw the words "spalla camicia" anywhere ever it was about 15 years ago on...Ask Andy. At the time that was THE board to talk about tailored clothing. And the amazing thing was that for everybody in the US, other than maybe some really hardcore folks that you could count on two hands, no one else had heard of it either. And certainly no one wore it. People aspired to savile row and brioni. Kiton was out there as well, but it was an insider brand. So the Naples thing - the spalla camicia thing - that is relatively new here. And when it comes to wearing a great suit on Wall Street it's still pretty much nonexistent. Look - I'm happy to debate it with anyone here but i need real counter examples of what people are wearing everyday to go to work in that environment. And of course there are people who wear it. But my view from the front line is that the shirt shoulder is still unusual on Wall Street and in American finance. And British finance. I'm not seeing them. I would notice.
     
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  6. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    What I was thinking, but didn't say.
     
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  7. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    This makes me think of something that I was just starting to realize a couple years ago. Wall Street, and business in general, seems to play by very different rules than what we are accustomed to here. It seems to me that there are not very many business persons on SF for whatever reason, or at least that the regular advise givers are not in business. Maybe I'm wrong, we do have threads devoted to business wear and even abbreviations to denote conservative business dress, etc. How many of the people that follow these things are actually in business I don't know. I think we have mostly doctors, academics, lawyers, and some civil servants who post regularly and "make tastes" around here. Again, I could be wrong about this but it is a sense. In any case, most of the real world business people I know wouldn't be caught dead wearing a pocket square, nor would they wear an odd jacket to anything other than a costume party. This isn't because of any lack of interest in clothes, but rather because their culture expects other things, like Hermes ties. Anyway, it was 98 degrees here today and I spent too long outside in the sun at a local art fair, so I might be talking complete shit.
     
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  8. smittycl

    smittycl Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    A very strident and somewhat strained series of posts guys. Too busy with Euro16 and Copa right now. Relax and watch some soccer! Dempsey scored! USA! USA! USA!
     
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  9. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Well-Known Member

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    Causticman - for the first time in all my years on styleforum I am going to use the thumbs function to celebrate a post. Congrats. You have truly impressed me. And to think that i'd written you off as kind of a dick with middling style. I want to apologize for my internal monologue heretofore. A thumbs up to you sir!
     
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  10. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    lol I guess I'll just have to live with that. :)

    I've never seen tempers so generally short. Maybe it's a full moon.
     
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  11. pravda

    pravda Well-Known Member

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    @loarbhms my style aesthetic is neither subtle nor understated, unless I decide it to be. That night reflected my mood.
     
  12. DiplomaticTies

    DiplomaticTies Well-Known Member

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    Wise words indeed. Sorry to see England lose points on overtime in a game they deserved to win. But for me Monday will be the key day as Sweden enters the tournament against Ireland.

    And referring to the discussion on the sartorial knowledge of businessmen, a similar discussion on well dressed footballers would probably be very, very short. Who can forget this gem from Dele Alli...
    [​IMG]
     
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  13. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Well-Known Member

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    Friday. Similar to last Saturday with some more color.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. DiplomaticTies

    DiplomaticTies Well-Known Member

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    Great socks!
     
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  15. smittycl

    smittycl Well-Known Member

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    You are quite correct. I work in DC and most folks dress conservatively. Many folks wear suits simply because they have to. You can get away with pocket squares and the occasional odd jacket depending the schedule. Standard business suits dominate with only the quality changing as you move up. It's a uniform but you can seriously stand out if you make the effort to buy well made, well fitting clothes. Many take great pride in dressing well. Just not much sprezz.

    I put on the Zegna, Oxxford and Canali for meetings with bigwigs and save the Eidos and sport coats for lighter days.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2016
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  16. smittycl

    smittycl Well-Known Member

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    I love mainline Ermenegildo Zegna and have many suits, sport coats, ties and such. I always laugh when I see their Zegna Sport line as only midfielders for Real Madrid seem to wear it. :)
     
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  17. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    Fascinating world, business.
     
  18. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Well-Known Member

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    I totally disagree with this but it's Saturday night now so I can't refute it eloquently but next week I will dress like a lunatic and post a pic everyday. Until then I bid you gentlemen adieu.
     
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  19. mountainstyle

    mountainstyle Member

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    This is my impression as well. However, I work in IT, from home, and live in the American West where an interest in clothes is almost weird.
     
  20. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    Jacket thru Kent Wang in Minnis worsted Alsport, soft shoulder. Hober madder paisley, KW Hokusai (Shinagawa) square, Kamakura shirt, hand-welted Norwegers in Fruedenburg calf, three-quarter goiserer stitching, Demeter brothers Budapest
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2016
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