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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

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  1. Andy57

    Andy57 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    This.

    The only metric that I care about is does the jacket cover my ass and my crotch? If not, then the jacket is too damn short. Don't care at all about your other rules.
     
  2. justinkapur

    justinkapur Well-Known Member

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    This bugs the hell out of me when a crotch isnt covered by a jacket. You could say it drives me nuts


    :rimshot:
     
    4 people like this.
  3. Andy57

    Andy57 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Well-Known Member

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    Hey-ooohhh!
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. llamaone

    llamaone Well-Known Member

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    I don't see the logic/reasoning behind having different jacket length's for variety's sake. Would you also have a variety of sleeve lengths? No. There's an ideal length in both cases, and there's no reason to stray from it.

    Once you find the correct jacket length for you, stick to it. I can understand a tolerance of say +/- 1 cm (since 1 cm won't make that much of a difference, visually speaking, and allows you to acquire otherwise excellent fitting jackets if the length is only slightly off), but I see no reason to purposefully get jackets of noticeably different lengths. YMMV.
     
  6. justinkapur

    justinkapur Well-Known Member

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    Do you have a wardrobe that consists of entirely one manufacturer? Im guessing no. Therefore you accept that different nuances from each manufacturer. Im not saying that there should be a vast difference but there can be a difference in length and it should be embraced instead of trying to get your entire wardrobe to be the exact same BOC length
     
  7. llamaone

    llamaone Well-Known Member

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    Ohh.. kay? So by your logic, a jacket that reaches the knees is perfectly acceptable? After all, it covers your ass and crotch, right? :rimshot:

    There needs to be "rules" for both upper and lower limits. Or more simply, rules that simply simply give you the right length, as the three that I mentioned above do.
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2016
  8. llamaone

    llamaone Well-Known Member

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    Of course I don't. Which is why I said +/- 1 cm (or even more or someone who is particularly tall) is fine. But to purposely seek to acquire jackets of obviously different lengths, just for the sake of "variety", seems odd to me.
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2016
  9. Andy57

    Andy57 Well-Known Member

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    I think @justinkapur made his point. And if that's how he wishes to build his wardrobe, I don't see an issue. It's not how I would go about it and I'd probably tell him if I thought a jacket was too short. But that's how it goes: we all have opinions, but in the end, for each of us, there is only one that counts.
    Don't be an idiot.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. justinkapur

    justinkapur Well-Known Member

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    Im sorry you are taking this way to literally. I dont actively search for different lengths on my jackets. I guess ill agree with @Andy57 and say dont be an idiot.
     
  11. llamaone

    llamaone Well-Known Member

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    I'm not. Just taking you at your word.
     
  12. llamaone

    llamaone Well-Known Member

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    Perhaps I'm taking you too literally, but how else was I supposed to interpret...


    Did I misconstrue anything you said? :confused:
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2016
  13. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Well-Known Member

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    Actually I'm siding with @llamaone on this. His cited rules are well-known and accepted, and his arguments are sound.

    I would also prefer to see @jcmeyer 's jacket about 3cm shorter. But I don't think it's a dealbreaker.
     
    2 people like this.
  14. justinkapur

    justinkapur Well-Known Member

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    Hopefully this answers your question
     
  15. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

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    Only because I like to argue:

    1) the bisecting rule will naturally, if rigidly adhered to, create oddities in a look on someone who has a seriously wonky shape, as JC admits to having. In this case, i think he'd (lord knows I would) be happier being wrong than adhering to this rule.
    2) thumb rule is another terrible one in this case, I'd argue. If applied to myself, I'd probably have at least 25% of my ass popping out from under my jacket when standing at ease, and probably 50ish% when in movement. Complete non-starter in my case, and I think JC would have a similar result if he took the 1.5" approach.
    3) the look test in my view is your best argument, which is a rather backhanded compliment.

    At the end of the day, I don't think it's going out on a limb to say the first two points, while lovely in theory, don't jive at all when put to practice, at least in this case.

    Here is my rationale for keeping status quo:

    I do like the way it looks. So, my only argument is the opposite of the best argument, yet neither is anything beyond subjective.

    It's certainly fine to disagree, but let's not pretend like one side of this debate has a legitimate leg to stand on beyond opinion.
     
    4 people like this.
  16. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Well-Known Member

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    #49.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Brixton - Pal Zileri Sartoriale - Maker's Shirt - Robert Fraser - Pal Zileri - Bresciani - C&J

    I never normally include a robopose; this time, just for kicks, I have.
     
    29 people like this.
  17. Andy57

    Andy57 Well-Known Member

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    Agree with pretty much all of this.
     
  18. llamaone

    llamaone Well-Known Member

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    1) Why do you say JC's shape is "seriously wonky"? He's just short. But I don't think his proportions are significantly outside of the norm. Therefore, the bisecting rule should work just fine for him. In fact, the bisecting rule exists specifically to avoid the pitfalls of other "rules" for jacket length which can be thrown off by wonky proportions. For instance, abnormally long or short arms will obviously mean the thumb rule won't work. But it's never wrong for a jacket to cut the body in half. This is what's ideal 99.99% of the time. The thumb rule is just a quick and dirty method of approximating this for most people.

    2) Again, JC's proportions (i.e. relative length of arms, legs, torso, etc.) seem fairly normal. No reason the thumb rule wouldn't work for him. I'll have to take you at your word that it won't work for you, but as I've acknowledged, it's not infallible.

    3) I suppose that the "overall look" is somewhat subjective, and pics can be misleading. But these pics appear to be from a far enough distance and taken from an appropriate height that they should provide a fairly accurate representation of reality. To be clear, I'm not saying JC's jacket is egregiously long and that it shouldn't be worn. But since he explicitly asked for feedback on the length, I stand by my thoughts that ideally, it could be shorter by as much as 1.5"--or perhaps more like only .75" to play it safe. But if he's happy with it as is, he should wear it without hesitation. It looks like a lovely and excellent fitting suit in all other regards. But there's a reason he asked about the length... he must have a sneaking suspicion himself that it's a tad too long...
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  19. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    FWIW @jcmeyer , I stand by what I said in GNAT and I wouldn't shorten it. Have fun in Japan, bud. I'm looking forward to seeing some pictures and really hope you get to stop by Ethan's place (Brycelands).
     
    2 people like this.
  20. Andy57

    Andy57 Well-Known Member

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    Is this the 49th fit you've posted?

    I'm not personally enamored of newsboy caps. It spoils the overall fit. And I say this as a confirmed hat-wearer.
     

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