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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr.K, Mar 25, 2011.

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  1. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Well-Known Member

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    On the Monaro, NSW.
    

    Thanks mate. Now we are moving in to Autumn in the Antipodes I can start bringing out my winter coats and suits with more pattern and texture.
     
  2. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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    1/13/13 - I sent in measurements
    1/23/13 - Fabric selected
    1/24/13 - tryon jacket for size received
    2/11/13 - silk lining selected
    3/5/13 - first jacket arrives
    4/12/13 - final jacket arrives

    It likely would have taken less time if I was quicker on the reply and getting things sent back.

    Price - I dont spend money foolishly (most of the time) and only invest in something when I think its a fair deal, that should be noted. Ive been asked many times and had several opportunities to do a project like this but this was the best dollar/value/time/ease ratio Ive had. Could not be happier.

    Construction is amazing, below are some pics of the deets. Perfect matched patterns, curved breast pocket, a lapel roll thats pretty sick nasty, hand stitched buttonholes, etc. And if you hate the lining I give no fucks because I picked it, its a vintage silk. :slayer:

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    5 people like this.
  3. justinkapur

    justinkapur Well-Known Member

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    Spoo that jacket is fantastic. I have a question as far as weight of fabric. Looks fairly heavy is that the case or is it a lighter weight?

    I know your in the East coast so I can see a heavy fabric being better for location. Was the jacket made in the states?
     
  4. chocsosa

    chocsosa Well-Known Member

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    Fresno, CA

    Thanks guys.. I am lucky to have a good tailor and we both agree on the what I like when it comes to fits..when you are over 6"8, the one thing you don't want to look like is heavy..I already get stared at everywhere I go.. one part is due to my size and the other is due to the way I dress..I get people that pull me aside for compliments all the time as well as what my height is..I like a close fit without it being tight where I can move and sit or rise with ease..a lot of my old teammates from college poke fun and call me euro because of my look..but also pull me aside frequently to ask where I get my clothes and who my tailor is. I find it amusing..
     
  5. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    finishing on that bad boy is top effing notch.
     
  6. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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    Its a 12oz. Its still 50 something out, so its an early spring/fall winter jacket for me. Working on something next for summer already :)

    It was 100% made in the USA.
     
  7. justinkapur

    justinkapur Well-Known Member

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    Awesome it looks fantastic man! Enjoy it for sure! Are you going to try trousers from same tailor? Trousers are the most difficult part for me to fit.
     
  8. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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    :nodding:
     
  9. GMMcL

    GMMcL Well-Known Member

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    AMAZEBALLS! And inspirational; I think I may try something similar with two pieces I've had trouble pairing and had literally never thought of putting together.
    Ahem. When I get back from vaca, that is.



    So, first thing to say is: That looks and fits nicer than 99% of anything I own.
    Second thing to say is: I'm so far from an expert that I probably should just stop now.
    The third thing to say is: I'm not going to.
    But since you asked for impressions, nitpicks and honest feedback, this is honestly and objectively (if mistakenly) what I see:
    - The back looks like it's not fitting quite right. There's the rumple just below the collar, plus the slack between your shoulder blades.
    - Also, the upper sleeve looks just a hair big for your proportions, or at least the proportions of the lower arm.
    - The lapels are pushing the limits of what your proportions can carry. Don't get me wrong, again, you manage it well, But they're sufficiently wide that I noticed it, whereas I usually don't on your stuff.
    - But the biggest issue is the lower quarters. The upper quarters are great. The proportions and the angles seem right. But when they jacket hits the waist/button point, it just seems to turn into something much more boxy. It goes straight down. The angle of incidence does not equal the angle of reflection (to geek it up) and especially in the robo pose it's throwing me ALL off.

    So, again, just to be clear, this kicks the ass of everything I own, but it's a shade of a percent off top Spoo-level.

    On a side note, I think I know where you got this and the interesting thing is, I just advised a friend of a friend against joining this company, reasoning that folks who are of a mind to have true bespoke/made to measure will want to feel the fabric, see the construction in action etc., so the two aspects of the business model didn't mesh. Nitpicking aside, it's nice to see that they make really nice stuff.
     
  10. MrDaniels

    MrDaniels Well-Known Member

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    I hope the jacket is reversible because that lining is DA BOMB!!!
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2013
  11. MrDaniels

    MrDaniels Well-Known Member

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    Have you seen one of his Tom Ford three-piece numbers with the wide peak lapels? :devil: They ARE the limit! But sharper than a serpent's tooth on him...
     
  12. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    How long until the maker is revealed? :lurk:
     
  13. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    WE SHALL NEVER KNOW!!!
     
  14. GMMcL

    GMMcL Well-Known Member

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    All true, but the proportions overall are very different. First, peak lapel look best when they're straining for the sky, like angel wings. Second, the shoulders are wider, balancing the lapels. Third, the waist nips harder with the lower quarters flaring more.

    So, once again, that jacket is great. But to my (untrained) eye, some of his RTW stuff fits better: certainly the TF and that charcoal windowpane (is it Isaia?).

    Can't beat that lining, lapel roll and construction. Holy crap that looks nice!
     
  15. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Well-Known Member

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    Mexico City
    

    You are right, in the side pics it's not there. So I think it is very very nice. So… when does the maker is going to be revealed? :)

    Henry Carter, very nice jacket, it's awesome!
     
  16. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Well-Known Member

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    Why not? o_O What if some of us want to have a SC from him? Share the name Espú, share it! :)
     
  17. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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    Appreciated. Too tired to type a proper reply, Im sorry.. but all points noted.




    Soon, maybe tomorrow. :)
     
  18. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Well-Known Member

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    My own 2 cents from an untrained eye...I agree with GMMcL's comment in that my initial reaction was to just give it a wee nip in the waist, which will create the silhouette we're used to seeing from you. Nitpick really. Great jacket overall.
     
  19. Szarmant

    Szarmant Active Member

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    Jul 8, 2012
    Location:
    Warsaw, Poland
    Thanks. Indeed it is rather unusual DB. It is vintage. It was made in 1970's by Sartoria Santagada from Varese (Lombardy). Fabric is very heavy (English, Sulka on the selvedge, probably not related to famous tie manufacturer). Even if I compare it to contemporary 16oz H. Lesser, this cloth is still heavier. In fact it is a suit. I also have trousers but they are bell-bottoms ;). I personally adore the blue pearl buttons. Very rare sight nowadays.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2013
  20. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Well-Known Member

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    Spoo, lovely jacket and even more amazing considering that you did this with home measurements and by e-mail. The tailor must already know you, I presume?

    The side view makes it for me and really shows why double vents are so manifestly superior to single vents. From the back there is, as some have already pointed out, very slight wrinkling between the shoulder blades, but it's nothing to worry about. The shoulder shaping is perfect. The fabric looks gorgeous and the lining couldn't be better, particularly for you.

    The only thing I would change if it was mine - and this is entirely personal preference - is perhaps to have the waist a tiny bit more nipped to give a bit more definition - from the front it is a tiny bit too cylindrical for my taste. But then I am very English about these things and I am aware that nipped waists are not to everyone's liking.

    Overall: a major success, especially considering the method.
     
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