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Help with suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by water, Jan 21, 2004.

  1. water

    water Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    389
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2004
    Hello everyone, I am new to this forum (and suit buying in general) and was hoping you could all lend me a little of your expertise. I am in the market for a three-button black suit. I know I am a 40R (5'10"/5'11", 165lbs). Where I live I have no option for picking up a "good" suit locally. Therefore, I have been keeping an eye on e-bay as well as bluefly to see what I might be able to pick up. Would anyone like to offer an opinion on this auction: Canali 40R on ebay Or offer any advice? There is also a "Tessuto Ermenegildo Zegna" I am considering. In conversations with the seller of this item I have been told that it is made in Italy and neither fused nor handstitched? Thanks for any help you can offer.
     
  2. BjornH

    BjornH Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    503
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2002
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Canali suits are generally fine suits for the money and to my untrained eye this looks like a fine specimen. The seller has 100% positive feedback so it could be worse.

    I think that a Tessuto Ermenigildo Zegna suit is really just a suit made from wool spun by the Zegna mills as my googling has suggested that 'tessuto' just means 'fabric'. The standard practice of some sellers is to try to pass them off as genuine Zegna suits but with out stating directly that they are. In the few instances that proper pictures are provided, they show a suit that is obviously not constructed to Zegna standards. I would leave that one alone.

    Perhaps others more experienced with ebay could pitch in with better advice ?

    B
     
  3. VMan

    VMan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,103
    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2003
    Yes, that is correct.

    Some ebay sellers try to sell 'Zegna' suits that are just made from Zegna fabric, but constructed by some other company. The fabric quality may be okay, but from what I have seen these suits have a more 'generic' cut that isn't very flattering. Also, the construction isn't as up-to-par on those suits, and probably have fused seams.

    Canali is probably one of the "best bang for the buck" suits out there. They are of good quality (nice fabrics, variety of cuts and patterns to choose from, flattering cuts, non-fused seams with floating canvas [?] in the lapels) and are a fairly decent price even at full retail. However, they can be commonly had on ebay for $400 to $600.
     
  4. water

    water Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    389
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2004
    Thanks for your help guys.

    When I wrote the seller with questions about the Zegna it was explained to me that it was not a regular Zegna, but a "suit made for Braun (a high priced retailer in Germany). It was actually not made for exports because Braun aimed to put his own label "made by zegna for Braun" in it. Braun went bankrupt."

    Does the Canali look legit? My trepidation surrounds the fact that the seller states that they do not allow returns. In some ways this does not bother me because all the dimensions are listed and they match well with my own, so any tweaks I can have done by a local tailor who is quite good.

    My dimensions: chest-39", shoulder-18.5", sleeve-25"
    Canali jacket: chest-43", shoulder-19.25", sleeve-26"

    Any thoughts?
     
  5. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,790
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    Mar 7, 2002
    Location:
    Washington, D.C.
    I don't know the seller, but I doubt he is going to risk his spotless reputation to make a quick $500.  Canali can be had for around the seller's asking price on Bluefly during sales, so it's not like the price should raise any concerns. The bigger risk is whether the suit will fit properly or not.  Assuming that the seller has measured the suit correctly, it looks like it will.
     
  6. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,458
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2003
    also consider that most canali have very square, raised shoulders. this may or may not be to your liking. in your situation i'd order from bluefly in order to return it if you don't like the cut. other suits have a more natural shoulder that flows more with your real shoulder line. check out the corneliani.it website or look at most british-styled suits.
     
  7. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jul 28, 2003
    just looked at the suit on ebay and it looks good to me. solid black isn't always easy to find on sale, and it has double vents. if you like the style i'd go for it.
     
  8. water

    water Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    389
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2004
    Well, I held off on the Canali after I gathered from a little research that they are known for creating a pretty conservative cut.

    I am looking for a suit that has a more "athletic" cut without a lot of shoulder padding. Of course, it would be great if I could find one handstitched rather than fused. Can anyone recommend any designers to me? Was I wrong to overlook Canali? Thoughts?
     
  9. Yosarian77

    Yosarian77 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    60
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2003
    I own several Canali suits which I wear almost exclusively at work. They are stylish, yet conservative enough in a work environment. They are, in my opinion, a great value at discount (if not retail) since they are typically less expensive than Armani and Zegna and are high quality. They do have more shoulder padding, but I haven't found them to be excessively so. The fabric of the Super120 Canali fabric is outstanding. The punchline is that you absolutely cannot go wrong with Canali. And truthfully, if you have a good tailor making the alterations, he/she can make the cut more or less athletic for you.

    If you are looking for an "athletic" cut suit without shoulder padding, etc., you might try Jil Sander's Tailor Made line. I don't know if the suits are fused, but they have a very modern/sleek style with the tapered pants and thinner lapels. I believe you can find them on yoox.com, but they aren't as ubiquitous as Canali at discount.

    As an asside, I purchased a Zegna suit on Ebay for my brother-in-law which turned out to be Zegna fabric, but clearly not constructed by Zegna. I'd avoid the "Tessuto Ermenegildo Zegna" like the plague unless you can see the suit in person first. --just my two cents.
     

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