1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

HAVERSACK AT PITTI UOMO 85

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Synthese, Mar 30, 2014.

  1. Synthese

    Synthese Darth Millennial

    Messages:
    8,264
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2009
    Location:
    COLONY WORLD 21XX
    HAVERSACK AT PITTI UOMO 85: 'TIS A FAR BETTER THING

    Words and pictures by Jasper L

    It took some real bravery to enter the Haversack booth. It was swamped with buyers for most of Pitti, and even when it wasn’t, gathering the courage to approach Ian - the brand representative who exemplified both the heroism of an aging, short-haired Sidney Carton and the vague menace of an underground boxing promoter - and tell him I didn’t know anything about his company required a bit of doing. I had to make several nonchalant circles around the booth and mumble a few recitations of the Litany against Fear before I was sufficiently galvanized.

    I must not fear,” I tell myself, walking up to him and smiling. Camera? Check. Business card? Check. Sweaty handshake? Likely.

    The clothes hit kind of a sweet spot between Paul Harnden, Yohji Yamamoto, and Oliver Spencer. They’re pleasantly anachronistic in a manner that suggests early-1900’s poverty and, simultaneously, luxury that Fitzgerald’s ill-fated protagonists might dream of while on safari. It’s all wrangled together under an umbrella of cuts that reference militaria and the romance of your favorite vanished explorers. It’s not just the cut that attracts the eye: the patterns and colors are at once loud, subtle, and very, very beautiful. It’s all finished to an exacting standard, and construction is top-notch.

    Designer Koji Norihide appears to have something of an obsession with outerwear, since most of what he’s brought to Pitti comes in the form of exquisitely-tailored jackets – which Ian walks me through as Mr. Norihide busies himself with coffee and a newspaper. This works for me, because I’m happy to indulge my own obsession with outerwear and let him ignore us. He looks, if possible, even cooler than Ian does. The standouts, in my mind, are a grey peak-lapel jacket with an exploded windowpane pattern, a blazer with embroidered paisley details, and a high-collared deck jacket that fulfills just about every down-on-his-luck-spacefaring-mariner fantasy I’ve ever had.

    It’s fitting that Ian’s grizzled voice has a gravitas that would make Russel Crowe blush, and when I asked him to tell me a little bit about Haversack, he delivers his response in a rousing, two-minute monologue that manages to be friendly, informative and slightly belligerent:

    “They make Modern-day garments in a very old, classic style. What they’re making is as-is 1940’s, 1950’s. Right? But they vamp it up with various fabrics. 90% Japanese made. We only have two items which are made in Germany. We have two collections, two stylings; these are the blousons, the easy pants, the knitwear, etcetera etcetera. And the other one over there, it’s more of a formal, semi-formal type. This time around – ‘Ello,” he pauses, staring down a buyer. “This time around, the knitwear – we don’t have much. It’s more of the jackets and coats in both collections. Style-wise, the main thing is ‘light, durable, and easy to wear.’ Price? Not cheap. Because they’re all made in Japan, fabrics are all specially-made – so you won’t see the same fabrics in any other collection. Am I speaking too much?

    Fear is the mind killer, I think. “No, no. I Love it.”

    “That’s about it. It’s a very difficult to summarize this collection, it really is. They’re all handmade. No machine use at all.”

    Fear is the little death that brings total obliteration. “None at all?”

    “None at all. None at all. What else you got?”

    “Nothing, that was perfect.”



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2014
    16 people like this.
  2. ManofKent

    ManofKent Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,285
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2008
    Location:
    Garden of England
    Looks a great collection. Thanks for the write up.
     
  3. A Fellow Linguist

    A Fellow Linguist Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,342
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2008
    Ugh that grey peak lapel windowpane jacket is everything. Excellent write-up, as always.
     
  4. Synthese

    Synthese Darth Millennial

    Messages:
    8,264
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2009
    Location:
    COLONY WORLD 21XX
    

    THAT was the word I was looking for. Thank you.
     
  5. silverwarebandit

    silverwarebandit Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,642
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2011
    Location:
    Chicago
    Great! Thanks for the write up, and are those quilted trousers? I only have two haversack pieces because yeah it's not cheap... Actually I guess three - I screwed up the sizing on yjp and bought a haversack field jacket for my fiancé instead of for myself.
     
  6. Find Finn

    Find Finn Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    12,358
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2010
    



    [​IMG]
     
  7. StanleyVanBuren

    StanleyVanBuren Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,722
    Joined:
    May 5, 2007
    Location:
    Los Angeles

    Damn.
     
  8. coolron

    coolron Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    617
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2013
    Location:
    NYC
    Those quilted trousers and that biker/peacoat hybrid are so good.
     
  9. LelandJ

    LelandJ Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    448
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2014
    I don't understand "no machine at all." He's not really saying they don't use sewing machines?
     
  10. Synthese

    Synthese Darth Millennial

    Messages:
    8,264
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2009
    Location:
    COLONY WORLD 21XX
    

    Right?
     
  11. Synthese

    Synthese Darth Millennial

    Messages:
    8,264
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2009
    Location:
    COLONY WORLD 21XX
    

    Apparently? It seems impossible, but I didn't clarify beyond what you read there (which is verbatim from my recording). If anyone knows more about the brand and wants to chime in, feel free - I'll reach out via email as well.
     
  12. thegreatgatsby

    thegreatgatsby Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    130
    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Location:
    677 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10065
    Just an update -

    I just got in touch with a Japanese stockist.

    He can get me the amazing green quilted pants --- but, and it's a big but - the pants are cropped (they're like short-pants for a 10 year old).

    So - if anyone wants the info on how to get them - I'll be happy to pass it on, and you can order this week (Friday is the deadline).

    I'm not going to buy them [for obvious reasons]...I had visions of rugged hunting trousers dancing in my head.

    Disappointment...
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2014
  13. LelandJ

    LelandJ Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    448
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2014
    Gatsby,

    Does the stockist have more pictures of the collection available. I may be interested in the grey windowpane jacket.
     
  14. thegreatgatsby

    thegreatgatsby Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    130
    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Location:
    677 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10065
    LelandJ -

    PM me --- I will give you the contact info.

    I think they can get anything from the AW14 collection.

    Best
     
  15. Find Finn

    Find Finn Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    12,358
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2010
    

    Mid shin or what?
     
  16. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    36,645
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    From what I've seen (same stuff as you in the same place), it's fully machine made.
     
  17. Synthese

    Synthese Darth Millennial

    Messages:
    8,264
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2009
    Location:
    COLONY WORLD 21XX
    

    Yes, and looking at the pictures, it seems pretty obvious. Maybe he meant "hand-finished?" I never got an answer to this.
     
  18. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    36,645
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    Maybe hand-designed as opposed to CAD stuff? This would jibe well with the retro look... I'm not sure. I liked several of the pieces there btw
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by