1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Gunboat leather, cordovan or pebble grain?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by UrbanComposition, Jan 2, 2016.

  1. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,251
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2010
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Looking at 50s era pics of my recently passed father-in-law, I noticed he wore gunboats (longwings) with both suits and sport coats. It looked good.

    I have two black blucher gunboats, in cordovan and pebble grain. In my mind the cordovan is shinier and goes well with suits; conversely the pebble grain is better with sport coats. What are your thoughts?

    Also, if you don't like gunboats, don't bother saying so. You're obviously retarded.
     
  2. gs77

    gs77 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    731
    Joined:
    May 15, 2015
    Location:
    Toronto, Ontario
    

    I love gunboats and wear them with suits, although mine are simple calf, and that's how I like them. My understanding is there is a school of thought that says no gunboats with suits, but...

    And your last sentence kind of might draw the wrong type of discussion, not sure what was your intention. I think of it as a joke :)
     
  3. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,251
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2010
    Location:
    San Francisco
    100% a joke. No one is retarded.

    Seriously though, calf gunboats seem neither here nor there to me. The brogueing firmly puts it in casual territory. Might as well cement its place there with like leather.
     
  4. gs77

    gs77 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    731
    Joined:
    May 15, 2015
    Location:
    Toronto, Ontario
    Just to add, pebble grain would be OK with suit, IMHO, in case suit is something like tweed, or flannel, not wursted.
     
  5. gs77

    gs77 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    731
    Joined:
    May 15, 2015
    Location:
    Toronto, Ontario
    

    Perhaps. I just never had thing for cordovan. Pebble grain is an option, just happens that all my shoes in pebble are kind of ankle boots. Like this

    [​IMG]
     
  6. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,561
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    

    I wouldn't think the shininess has anything to do with it. Neither are as dressy as calf, but depending on the style of the shoe, they can work with suits.

    Shell cordovan looks heavier to me, even when the silhouette is the same. If it were me, I'd prefer pebble grain.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2016
  7. gs77

    gs77 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    731
    Joined:
    May 15, 2015
    Location:
    Toronto, Ontario
    Here's the one in black calf. Wear them with suits all the time.[​IMG]
     
  8. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,251
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2010
    Location:
    San Francisco
    The calf is nice, gs77. I'm not an absolutist; I just feel gunboats, like tweed, are at the far end of the casual spectrum and thus look better in a heftier leather.

    DWW the shine and relative smoothness of cordovan is practically opposite that of pebble grain. Which might be a nice contrast to tweed...while pebble grain complements it.

    Either is fine, but all other things being equal, I lean towards cordovan being slightly dressier.
     
  9. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,561
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    FWIW, I feel like shell cordovan gunboats would fit better with your wardrobe. Both leathers would look good either way though.
     
  10. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,251
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2010
    Location:
    San Francisco
    On a side note, I don't know how I feel about suede gunboats.
     
  11. Salad

    Salad Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    674
    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2006
    Location:
    Yay Area
    When I think of gunboats, I ONLY think of burnished chestnut pebble grain. The old chestnut Florsheim Imperial is the one true gunboat, in my mind. I remember going into a Florsheim store with my Dad as late as the early 80s and being shocked at the prices. All I could think of was he's about to buy some hella expensive shoes but won't buy me some Jordans. Funny thing is if he had bought me those Chicago Jordan 1s then and I had kept them in good condition, they would be worth a lot more than those Florsheims.
     
  12. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,251
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2010
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Black gunboats are criminally underrated. Never more so than now, when chestnut shoes garishly gleam underfoot like a neon sign in a forest, apropos of nothing.
    FWIW, I like chestnut shoes. Just not with everything.
     
  13. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,561
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    Hm, when I think of Florsheim gunboats, I mostly think of the shell cordovan model.


    [​IMG]
     
  14. YRR92

    YRR92 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,345
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2012
    I have tan grain. I may try 'em with a flannel or tweed suit sometime soon. I'd rather have black pebble grain than black calf or shell. I think I could scratch the same itch with a black pebble grain wingtip oxford, with a plain welt – another very '50s choice. Great with a gray tweed or flannel suit.

    Suede gunboats... I'm not sure. I might end up with a pair before I buy black grain ones. But that's because I can get the same shoe I have in brown suede, and it happens to be the most comfortable shoe I own.
     
  15. Salad

    Salad Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    674
    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2006
    Location:
    Yay Area
    

    You talkin' 'bout black shoes on SF? Come on, man! ;)
     
  16. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,251
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2010
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Calf gunboats with suits just seem a bit...sad. Suede gunboats would look great with jeans though. Not challenging anyone, but I have yet to see suede gunboats put together with coat & tie that looks well.
     
  17. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,251
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2010
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Possibly completely arbitrary, but I've found pebble grain has a nice contrast with flannel. Same with tweed and cordovan. I'm sure they can be swapped, but the smooth/rough texture difference makes things interesting.
     
  18. hegemony

    hegemony New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2016
    I wear gunboats with suits if I am not wearing a tie.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by