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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. TM79

    TM79 Well-Known Member

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    Quick question about shoes ...

    I bought an Eidos brown herringbone suit for an outdoor fall wedding later this year and I don't think any shoes in my rotation pair up too well with it. The suit is a very rich and dark brown. I was thinking of an equally dark brown snuff suede shoe - thoughts? Also, any other types of shoes I should consider?

    I can try to post a picture of the suit, but iPhones are really bad at capturing true colors so I am not sure it would do a whole lot of good for me to do this.
     
  2. Sotiris

    Sotiris Well-Known Member

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    That's a bit of an exaggeration
    http://www.apple.com/iphone/world-gallery/

    Anyways, calf or suede one shade lighter or darker than the suit should work well. Maybe even oxblood?
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2015
    2 people like this.
  3. TM79

    TM79 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks very much for the suggestions. I also have an iPhone 5, not a 6 - so perhaps it's that plus me being s shitty picture taker.
     
  4. Sotiris

    Sotiris Well-Known Member

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    Oh I take (mostly) shit pictures with my iPhone (6) too. It was more an excuse to post that link because, well, amazeballs.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Well-Known Member

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    Shirt fabrics: for a staple blue dress shirt, end-on-end or chambray are traditional, and I think for good reason. I would start there. But I also like broadcloth and don't think that there's anything wrong it.

    Brown suit: oxblood/burgundy (even #8 shell) would split the difference between brown and black. I also have the visual experience that brown suede sometimes looks a bit off with brown trousers, but I know that it works, so I attribute it to some taste artifact of my own mind and just go with it. I would bet that a mid-to-dark brown suede shoe would look excellent with that Eidos suit. I also recall Manton mentioning that black shoes with a brown suit is an advanced move that can work but sometimes doesn't. It would be a bit odd for an outdoor daytime wedding, admittedly, but you might try it out before the wedding to see if you can make it work since you have lots of time.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  6. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Well-Known Member

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    Believe it or not, but black shoes always work well with a brown suit.
     
    3 people like this.
  7. jcpeterson

    jcpeterson Member

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    First post here on SF but have been lurking for a while. Was told to come here by murlsquirl. Anyways in the last year or so I've been more concerned with my appearance than previously. I've been working towards building a wardrobe of clothes that 1) I like and want to wear and 2) make an impression on those around me. I have a few questions about the outfits below and would appreciate help.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The jacket appears navy but is lighter in person.

    How is my fit? I've read and read about jacket fit but would like member input.

    I rarely have to "dress up" but I like to do it without reason sometimes. With that being said, would it be inappropriate to wear this in high school? I'm confident in myself and my style, but sometimes I think that it makes others uncomfortable. What to do?

    Also, what pants/shoes would (should) I wear with this top? I took the pics with dark denim on, and that's the best I could do without going to dress slacks.

    Jacket- Combatant Gentlement
    Shirt- Twillory
    Ties- Calvin Klein and The Tie Bar
    Pocket Squares- No idea got em from my gramps.
     
  8. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Well-Known Member

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    @TM79 polo suede like @in stitches's badass fit from yesterday
     
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  9. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    Correct, and thanks!

    Vintage oak calf also works well ime. As does black calf.
     
  10. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    @jcpeterson, welcome. From the photos it looks like the jacket could be a little bit tight in the chest (lapel bowing out a bit in first photo), though that could just be due to the way you are holding the camera. The second tie is a bit skinny for my taste as well. As for trousers, I'd wear either light grey, tan or cream / white. Shoes could be shades of brown for tan / cream / white trousers and either brown or black if you are wearing grey trousers.

    As for dressing in jacket and tie in high school, I would say that you should wear what you want, provided you are aware of how others perceive it and are fine with dealing with that perception. I think in general being aware of context and your situation and making some effort to dress towards it is useful. That can mean investing in things that fit better and maybe are a bit more formal versus being several notches above everyone else in formality. Keep in mind that being in high school you are likely to continue to grow and may need to replace clothes as you outgrow them, so I'm not sure how much it makes sense to invest at this stage unless money is no object. Again, do what you want, but do so after making an informed decision of how it will be perceived and really thinking about your views on that perception.
     
    3 people like this.
  11. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    ^ this is why I sent him over here....good stuff.
     
  12. aglose

    aglose Well-Known Member

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    So I am a sophomore in college and I want to echo some advice that's already been given. I would be extremely hesitant to buy anything expensive (unless money is no object) while in high school or your underclass men years of college. If I were you, I would focus on developing a casual wardrobe while in high school and your first years of college and then your junior and senior year of college start looking into some quality suits/jackets and odd trousers. I would recommend starting with casual so that you can learn what brands you like and dislike based on cheaper items and then take those tastes into suiting later on. I am by no means an expert, but like many I've made purchases that I regret now since they aren't being warn as much as I'd like them to be. Edit to add: if you are set on presuing suits/odd jackets with trousers, then I would recommend you focus on developing a relationship with a good tailor in your area prior to buying anything you want to wear for more then a year. Having a good tailor who can alter your suits as you change sizes is completely invaluable. If the tailor knows your style, he can keep an eye out for brands that fit your style and can help form your own personal style as well.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2015
  13. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    It used to be that young men going off to college would get outfitted with a blazer, a sport coat, and two pairs of trousers. 2 or 3 versatile ties and a few shirts and you'd have all you need to navigate the first initial forays into adult life. It's a shame that such considerations are left entirely to post college endeavors these days, but this is the world we live in.
     
  14. aglose

    aglose Well-Known Member

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    This also depends on your area of study. I'm a business major, (submitted this early) and I often have to wear a suit twice a month for networking events and presentations. But if I was a philosophy or engineering major, I could get away with sweats/jeans and a t shirt up until my senior year.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2015
  15. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    That's a fair point. I often see students in out business school dressed in suits. Ill fitting suits, but the effort is there. I doubt students have much disposable income to spend on tailoring in any case.
     
  16. aglose

    aglose Well-Known Member

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    This is truly very saddening to me. A good tailor is not hard to come by, and often not that expensive. I agree though, many of my fellow students have extremely ill fitting clothes. My school seems to be a touch better dressed though, a lot of the fraternities have contacts with a couple tailors around the town.
     
  17. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    That really depends on where you live. It's a big negative for me.
     
  18. jcpeterson

    jcpeterson Member

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    That's good advice, and I am building a casual wardrobe too. However, I do not have a typical high school situation to deal with. For example, between boys state, various award ceremonies, college interviews, and other events, I've probably had to wear a suit 10-15 times in the last year. A few weeks ago I was eating dinner with the governor of my state after serving as a page in the legislature (Dress shoes, dress slacks, tie every day). Do I wear a suit everyday? No, but I think that my needs warrant at least some investment into quality. Definitely not high end bespoke items, but I feel that I can justify investing in business appropriate wear. (I probably should have put this in my original post...)

    For instance, I have a trip to D.C. this April to accept some scholarship thing. In the list of required items they put suits. Not a suit. Suits plural. Luckily they are providing a tuxedo for the dinner because I can't afford any of that stuff right now. Money is an object for me, but I am smart with it. Tie bar ties, not Sam Hobers. Am I going to go buy a wardrobe of suits for this trip? No. But I did order a second suit to complement (read replace) my current one.

    Where would I get the light grey or tan trousers recommended by archibald? What kind of fabric or material should it be cut from? I am discovering that my pants wardrobe is basically jeans and dress slacks. No middle ground.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2015
  19. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    You want to know what I think the issue is? More than money (although that is always a consideration) the issue is upbringing. This isn't a "Parents aren't raising their kinds right" statement. What I mean to say is that people aren't growing up with fathers and mothers who dress well. I know I didn't. My grandfather, on the other hand, knew what was up. He knew because he watched his father, and his father taught him. When a young man doesn't have a sartorial example to follow, however, the path is much harder.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    I think the issue is less lack of a good tailor and more kids not knowing how a jacket should fit them in key places like the chest and shoulders.
     

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