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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. SeaJen

    SeaJen Well-Known Member

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    Undoubtedly it isnt your decision, but recorded lectures as a format for OL education is terrible, regardless of the production quality. Short multimedia pieces are okay and can help make a personal connection to the students in what is often an impersonal environment, but that's about the limit. The didactic style just doesn't translate to online. Better to adopt an active learning or discussion learning approach.

     
  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Agreed. Only a small portion of the OL class will involve recorded lectures.
     
  3. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    I definitely don't think pointy when I look at the rain. Sleek, but not pointy.
     
  4. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    I just don't like the style, would have liked it better without the brogueing.

    LOL, yeah I knew those 'football shoes' would get a lot of h8 here! Wear them with beat up jeans and a polo shirt or so. Strictly weekend wear.

    I have tiny feet, pointy shoes make them appear a little more in proportion with my fat a***
     
  5. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    Your experience is different from mine. I find no difference in the size of the sleeve head between a regular shoulder and shirred shoulder when controlled for the same maker. I find the amount of drape has greater effect on comfort during movement than the size of the sleeve head.
     
  6. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    +1. If anything, a roped shoulder (combined with a fuller sleeve) gives a bit more room. I have one suit with a spalla camicia shoulder in the same width as my suits with roped shoulders and it actually gives me less room around the shoulders.
     
  7. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Well-Known Member

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    Drape is very important, but I have 2 suits from the same maker, one with a bigger sleeve head than the other, and it does make a difference. I really like the comfort of the larger sleeve.
     
  8. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Well-Known Member

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    I have the answer. Shoot with two cameras. For the online production, occasionally cut away to the front row of the audience, consisting entirely of young Asian girls with thick spectacles looking all dreamy and high on oxytocin.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  9. macjedi

    macjedi Well-Known Member

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    Hi Gents! The other day, Sander suggested that a darker PS would be better for this …

    To my eye, I didn't see any at Shibumi that would work, but ended up getting two others and 3 pair of socks :)

    Would any of these from Kent Wang work better? If not, what else should I look for? Thanks!!!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Well-Known Member

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    TBH, none of those. 1 is too same-same with the tie (although it might just work here as it's a slightly lighter hue); 2 picks up the jacket colour, but you would have to stuff it so that the black bits poke out to reference the dark tie, which could be tricky; 3 is too colourful; 4 is not colourful enough.
     
  11. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    NS1 - Jacket looks good to me.

    Clags - That still from the vid is super awesome.

    Unbel - I used to have pointy chukkas. Sold em.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2015
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  12. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    You don't have tiny feet :)
     
  13. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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    because they looked like elf shoes? :nodding:
     
  14. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    That's very true.


    Because I needed money.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Well-Known Member

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    Quick one. Who bespeaks a suit: the client, or his tailor?
     
  16. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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  17. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    I believe the client. He be speaks (tells over) his request to the tailor. So I read somewhere once anyways.
     
  18. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

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  19. macjedi

    macjedi Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Coxsackie! I was thinking the same, but was hoping I could get some ideas of what would be better. I was thinking maybe an unrelated color, like a rust or burnt orange … or maybe a light/dark mix of blues?

     
  20. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Well-Known Member

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    It sounds plausible to me. Historically, wasn't much clothing "bespoke," in that there were no department stores with racks and racks of items in semi-standardized sizes? I understand that items were often run up by a female family member, or tailor, or servant (for the wealthy) on a one off basis. So obtaining an individualized fit (not necessarily a good fit, of course, since not everyone's skills or attention to detail in this area were particularly impressive) was the norm. But choosing the particular piece of cloth to be used would have represented a step beyond this norm.

    I couldn't say exactly when OTR become common. I do know that Brooks Brothers claims to have introduced the ready to wear suit to American customers.

    And, of course, the transition from to buying OTR clothing couldn't have taken place in an instant. Also, I would imagine different strata of society may have embraced this transition at different rates. And I'm guessing geography might also have been a factor - 19th century New York, Baltimore, Philadelphia, San Francisco, etc., were almost a completely different world from West Texas, Alabama, Oregon, etc. (The gulf was greater, in most ways, than it is today.)

    But anyway, in an era where OTR suits were largely unknown, suits would be, by default, bespoke. So there was little need to distinguish a suit of this normal type, by specifically referring to it as "bespoke."

    Well, that's my chain of reasoning. But I'm no expert on the history of clothing, so if anyone cares to correct some grievous misunderstanding on my part, feel free.
     

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