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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Unbel, his strategy is more economically sound perhaps.
     
  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    I wear oxfords with blazers all the time. But generally the jacket is pretty "city."

    Two days ago, I wore basically a brown plain captoe oxford with a navy jacket (solid, wool-linen, three patch pockets). Yesterday, suede captoe oxfords with some brogueing with a brown jacket (wool-silk-linen, solid, two patch pockets). I probably wouldn't have worn the plainer oxfords with yesterday's rig. And I if I were wearing something like tweed, the only oxfords I'd wear would be heavily brogued wingtips.

    So I think it's a "rule" that can easily be broken.
     
    5 people like this.
  3. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    The economy despises you. :)
     
  4. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    I'll PM him my bank account number later. Advice isn't for free, of course....
     
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  5. LoKey

    LoKey Well-Known Member

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    I posted a query about a two tone boot from Enzo Bonafe via Skoak recently and wanted to follow up with a picture from my first outing with it. The colors are fairly muted for a two tone boot and seems to pair well with flannels, tweeds and even dark denim (balmoral boot and denim, gasp). The green also prompted me to kop a Jade SS merino from @tchoy , which is en route. I'll post a few more combinations over the next few weeks for giggles.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Well-Known Member

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    What are your favorite ties to wear with navy pinstripe suits? I'm going to wear one for the first time for an interview next week and I'm pretty excited!
     
  7. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Well-Known Member

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    @jfrater , Claghorn is right on the money in describing it as a rule that can easily be broken, depending on the jacket. I might reach for a stitch cap toe with a very city blazer and tie and go to the other extreme of a scotch grain boot if I'm wearing tweed without a tie. Generally speaking, I find myself reaching the most for suede oxfords and shell wingtips (short or long wing bluchers). I do not have any double monks, but I think yours would be a solid choice along with your half brogues and some of the less sleek wingtips.

    I also agree with the others on not buying anything else for now. If I were you, I would pay attention to @Cleav 's shoe collection over the next few months and create a wish list for very specific pieces. He has an amazing collection and does a great job pairing them with his fit each day.

    The only place I depart from the others are the shoe laces for #26. Those are not my cup of tea, but I think that is the AE Neumok, which is intended to be a casual shoe worn with jeans.
     
  8. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

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    I think at this point in our history the Blucher(Derby)/Oxford distinction is best understood as one of several casual/dressy distinctions which may or may not render a particular pair inappropriate in a particular fit depending entirely on the other elements in the fit. And I think the distinction itself is best understood these days as merely a particular example of the broader principle that (other factors being equal) departures from simplicity are departures from formality, and for that reason the extra leather on the Blucher makes it less formal than the Oxford. I’m not sure much more than that can be said. That individual fits need to be analyzed individually is a pretty foundational principle.

    As always there can be conflicting principles. One such principle in the present case is the principle that elements which attract attention solely for their novelty constitute for that reason a departure from formality. It might have been Manton who felt that way about whole cuts; in any event I do. Despite the eliminate of all decoration, the sheer novelty of the things at this point in our history can make them stand out almost as much as spectators, albeit for an entirely different reason.

    I expect that if wholecuts become more common they will gradually lose this novelty and in a couple of generations the psychological effect just described will disappear. This is normal, and is just how the classical style evolves.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  9. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    WIN


    Solid. Neat. Stripe of larger scale than suit stripe. Paisley. There are plenty of options.

    ---

    I never really got into the rules about oxfords and bluchers with suits and SCs. For me it has always been about the overall styling of the shoe. I dont think there are many bluchers that are really styled for suits, but there are no shortage of oxfords that work 100% fine with SCs.
     
    2 people like this.
  10. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    Don't wear a navy pinstripe for a job interview, unless it's for a senior position in a bank...

    Edit: good luck with the interview!!
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2015
    2 people like this.
  11. jfrater

    jfrater Well-Known Member

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    Some amazing advice here! Thanks guys
     
  12. jfrater

    jfrater Well-Known Member

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    Ok I'll take your advice and see what happens when my MTO shoes arrive. I have mostly suede coming and a couple of more novel pairs
     
  13. Newcomer

    Newcomer Well-Known Member

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    I've been following this thread closely, but do not contribute too frequently. Just wanted to echo some of the other posters in one regard--

    Accumulate slowly. I do not think I wear one thing that I purchased when I started down this road. Your tastes will change, and the only way to really figure out the holes in your wardrobe is to wear what you own, and go from there. People can recommend that you buy x, y, and z, but you are going to have to figure out if YOU want to purchase these items.

    You certainly have the quantity. Now is the time to slow down, and purchase what you need rather than what is on sale, or what is a good deal. No need to compromise at this point.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2015
    2 people like this.
  14. jfrater

    jfrater Well-Known Member

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    Excellent advice - I suspect this will also correct my lopsided walk!
     
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  15. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Probably sound advice. But this thread allows you to accumulate quickly without making mistakes.

    Without.

    Making.

    Mistakes.

    And I am totally unbiased in saying this.

    Totally.

    Unbiased.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Also, no idea about their quality, but I just picked up some camel flannel trousers from Spier and Mackay for 55 dollars including shipping (they list prices in Canadian dollars, so it ended up being cheaper than expected). For that price, I figured it was worth the experiment.
     
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  17. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    I believe it was Kulata who spoke highly of them. I was thinking about grabbing a pair.
     
  18. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Given their prices during the sale, now would be the time. I only wish they had something in gray my size (other than the nailhead). Shit. Man. Maybe I should have gotten the nailhead as well. Not sure what kind of odd trousers they'd make though.
     
  19. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    Nothing good in my size....just checked. I looked at the nailhead, but don't think they would make for good odd trousers.
     
  20. LoKey

    LoKey Well-Known Member

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    @Claghorn The trousers in the picture I posted above with the EB boots is the camel flannel from S&M. The construction is not on par with Epaulet/HY/Luxire, but neither is the price. The value is great. It's a light to mid-weight flannel and it's held up well over the past two months. The fit is similar to HY's Italy (older style) cut with a mid-rise. I think they're looking to upgrade buttons in its next iteration and make a few more improvements. The owner, Rikky, is really responsive to feedback too.
     

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