Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

[Isolation]

I kinda see that, for London, but I kind of just feel like black monks, in suede for instance, beats them out in every way. I actually think my black monks and brown suede monks are my favorite pairs of shoes, though I probably wear my chukkas the most.

In my mind monks look better than loafers unless you really want a more casual look, in which case it's jarring with black leather anyway. Just seems a bit incongruent, and besides if you want it to be casual it's not like monks don't fill that role just fine, it's casual just not "preppy" the same way (in my mind anyway). In fact I feel like loafers kind of only really make sense when it's sunnier or whatever, not in a place like London.

Also I just like all the other casual shoe options more.

Then again I also don't understand why people get loafers in shell, though I think that's more excusable because shell is a specific look that people like.

 

[archibaldleach]

I don't understand the disdain for black loafers. They look perfectly fine with plenty of outfits. The fact that one is not wearing a suit does not and never has mandated that one wear brown shoes. I like brown shoes fine in casual outfits and even with suits when I don't need to be ultraconservative, but black shoes have been around for a long time outside of oxfords and are perfectly fine to wear in any number of settings.

 

[SamF]

Right, sorry to take this away from the current discussion. EFV directed me toward this thread when I had a question in WAYWRN, and I've been working my way through it.

So basically, my query is about how I see things in WAYWRN I like, but I struggle to say why it is I like them, which is what I'm hoping I can be helped with.

So take for example: http://www.styleforum.net/t/394373/hof-what-are-you-wearing-right-now-part-iv-starting-may-2014/7950

This from EliodA - hopefully he doesn't mind me using his post as an example. Now I like that fit in general, but in particular what I like is the chest. To my eyes it looks quite generous, particularly toward the underarms, but past that I couldn't really say what it is that makes the chest on that jacket look particularly good to me. I also like the lapel roll, but again, don't know why.

I would be very grateful for anyone who could educate me.

 

[Monkeyface]



Right, sorry to take this away from the current discussion. EFV directed me toward this thread when I had a question in WAYWRN, and I've been working my way through it.

So basically, my query is about how I see things in WAYWRN I like, but I struggle to say why it is I like them, which is what I'm hoping I can be helped with.

So take for example: http://www.styleforum.net/t/394373/hof-what-are-you-wearing-right-now-part-iv-starting-may-2014/7950

This from EliodA - hopefully he doesn't mind me using his post as an example. Now I like that fit in general, but in particular what I like is the chest. To my eyes it looks quite generous, particularly toward the underarms, but past that I couldn't really say what it is that makes the chest on that jacket look particularly good to me. I also like the lapel roll, but again, don't know why.

I would be very grateful for anyone who could educate me.

Plenty of stuff to read on this subject. Google drape or swelled chest and go from there.

 

[TweedyProf]

This is a good entry discussion with a few diagrams to help you on the drape cut:

http://dieworkwear.com/post/10204904409/the-beauty-of-drapes-and-swells

Not sure I would google "swelled chest" at work! But it is the weekend.

 

[TweedyProf]

Gents, any of you have a wool/silk or cashmere/silk grenadine? I'm curious what difference this makes to the hand, the drape and structure (if at all). Mixes are nice, but I've not handled on of these ties (Berg and Berg had quite a few, and Hober just received a batch, some of these bicolor which also seems like a nice touch).

Thoughts?

 

[The Noodles]

They can do grenadine with cashmere???,

 

[TweedyProf]

https://www.samhober.com/cashmere-silk-grenadine-grossa-silk-ties/

 

[EliodA]

Right, sorry to take this away from the current discussion. EFV directed me toward this thread when I had a question in WAYWRN, and I've been working my way through it.

So basically, my query is about how I see things in WAYWRN I like, but I struggle to say why it is I like them, which is what I'm hoping I can be helped with.

So take for example: http://www.styleforum.net/t/394373/hof-what-are-you-wearing-right-now-part-iv-starting-may-2014/7950

This from EliodA - hopefully he doesn't mind me using his post as an example. Now I like that fit in general, but in particular what I like is the chest. To my eyes it looks quite generous, particularly toward the underarms, but past that I couldn't really say what it is that makes the chest on that jacket look particularly good to me. I also like the lapel roll, but again, don't know why.

I would be very grateful for anyone who could educate me.

As the owner of the garment in question, I have to admit that such drape as there appears to be is the result of this particular suit having been purchased when my body shape was erhmm, somewhat more three dimensional than it is now. Though I've had a tailor take it in as much as possible without ruining the silhouette, it's still a tad on the roomy side. It does indeed have a nicely shaped swelled chest though, which has precisely the flattering effect as described in the Dieworkwear post.
The lapels are, IMO, the real 'secret' to why this suit looks so good and why it continues to be one of my favourites despite the fact that it's slightly too big: since it's already almost 15 years old, it was made before the ultra high gorge trend that has become so popular with the igentry. As it is, I think it perfectly balances the whole upper body area by having the curves and lines in just the right places. The fact that there is nowhere a straight line to be seen and that all curves are more or less continuous, gentle arches with the buttoning point as their fulcrum, works especially elegant, I think. Hope this explanation helps you a bit in understanding.

 

[TweedyProf]

It's so easy to see when you have such a nice, clean shot of it. And agree that it still looks great. A great investment that still looks spot on 15 years on (even if you became more 2-D

)

 

[SamF]

As the owner of the garment in question, I have to admit that such drape as there appears to be is the result of this particular suit having been purchased when my body shape was erhmm, somewhat more three dimensional than it is now. Though I've had a tailor take it in as much as possible without ruining the silhouette, it's still a tad on the roomy side. It does indeed have a nicely shaped swelled chest though, which has precisely the flattering effect as described in the Dieworkwear post.
The lapels are, IMO, the real 'secret' to why this suit looks so good and why it continues to be one of my favourites despite the fact that it's slightly too big: since it's already almost 15 years old, it was made before the ultra high gorge trend that has become so popular with the igentry. As it is, I think it perfectly balances the whole upper body area by having the curves and lines in just the right places. The fact that there is nowhere a straight line to be seen and that all curves are more or less continuous, gentle arches with the buttoning point as their fulcrum, works especially elegant, I think. Hope this explanation helps you a bit in understanding.

Yeah, that's very helpful, thanks. On the lapels, now you've mentioned it I can see it, they're very nice.

 

[The Noodles]

I cursed out loud when I saw them beautiful lapels. EliodA is bawhs!

 

[Isolation]

That does really good, is it common to get lapels that are concave instead of swell out? I might try to get something like that next time.

 

[The Noodles]

You must!

 

[TweedyProf]

Folks, I'm trying something new

http://www.styleforum.net/t/428478/the-grad-lounge

I hope you'll participate.