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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. The Noodles

    The Noodles Well-Known Member

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    I think this thread can certainly handle train wrecks as it has shown to properly handle my picnic attacks.

    Yes, I love looking at the suits hanging in my closet! I have not had a chance to take them to a tailor for a few reasons but I am looking forward to having them ready by spring. [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. jfrater

    jfrater Well-Known Member

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    Okay - here's the next combination - first attempt at using the advice garnered here.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Jacket: Oxxford
    Tie: Hober
    Shirt: Liverano and Liverano
    Pochette: Tom Ford
    Trousers: Brioni
    Shoes: Gaziano and Girling
    Socks: Bresciani
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2015
    2 people like this.
  3. Isolation

    Isolation Well-Known Member

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    I don't like the tie.

    Clags, can you explain your problems/thoughts on my fit and what I said? =/
     
  4. Newcomer

    Newcomer Well-Known Member

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    Hey Iso, just a little constructive criticism--first off, I actually think the fabric of your jacket is pretty darn special. I think it is a very interesting check. I also like it paired with jeans. I also like the light blue shirt, but I would ditch the tie, and maybe try to pick up a blue OCBD, or something of that ilk. That SC + jeans + spread collar + tie just does not jibe with me.

    I would also wear the majority of your SCs open. Do not get me wrong--they certainly "fit." But just because something contours to your body does not mean that it "fits." That is something that I have had to learn. My end goal with regards to a suit is for it to make me look better. Part of that is certainly fit. However, this means accentuating your positive characteristics, and minimizing the negative. I have something of an hourglass / pear shape. A substantial amount of waist suppression would likely "fit" me better, but it would also make me look more effeminate. Which is not what I am going for. The problem with bespoke, and a lot of the MTM that I see, is that it certainly fits closely... but it throws off the balance of the jacket, and ruins its lines. Using this picture as an example:

    [​IMG]

    I think the shoulders look fine. It appears to hug the collar of your shirt. The length is fine. But there is just way too much waist suppression, at least if you are going for the type of fits that are favored around these parts. I think the degree of waist suppression is also causing the quarters to flare.

    I know this is an unfair comparison, because, well, few can compare to the Vox, but look at how the waist of his jacket fits.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2015
  5. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Jfrater

    A few thoughts. Mixing three patterns isn't really working here. I'm not feeling them: stripes, dots and checks. Too motley.

    The square just seems unnecessarily loud especially in this fit. It dominates. I feel that squares should be accents. I'm not that into tie and the navy check is probably not going to earn much love here.

    That said. A solid tie would do wonders to tame the fit as would a less contrasty square.
     
    2 people like this.
  6. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    Jrafter, I think the most glaring issue is that those pants are much to rumply for that outfit. The formality is therefor discordant. The jacket/shirt/tie/PS combo is also not ideal. I think using nicely pressed light gray trousers and simply dropping the square there, would improve things greatly.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. heldentenor

    heldentenor Well-Known Member

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    Jfrater, you've got stripes and windowpanes of roughly the same scale, and they're going in similar but visibly different directions. That tends to make a fit look "busy," which is compounded by the loud dots in the square. I'm a guy who likes a lot of pattern, sometimes beyond the taste of those with better sartorial bona fides than mine (see today on WAYWRN), but I think that either a solid jacket or a solid/neat tie would improve your fit quite a bit.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. The Noodles

    The Noodles Well-Known Member

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    +1

    Here's my take...with caution (as I'm just a newb).
    Subtract the loud PS and the patterned shirt.
    Add a simple white linen PS and a solid shirt.
    The tie seems to not jive with the jacket.
    A nice pair of grey wool dress pants would be a better choice.

    The pull on the jacket seems to remind me of my fits when I used to wear one size small.

    But this is far far far from a mess. I think you have good stuff and just need some tweaking here and there to be fine.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2015
  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    FWIW, jfrater, I like your outfit. The fit and silhouette of the coat looks nice. Some things that I would consider changing:

    - The blue of the jacket seems pretty vibrant, while the pants are earthy. Pants that are more beige and less olive would be better I think.

    - Same complaint about the tie...it's a little earthy. Also, my personal preference with checked jackets is ties with block (i.e., thicker) stripes rather than the thin ones that yours has.

    - I agree the square could be tamed a bit. I would consider that kind of a tough square to wear. But I think it would stick out less if you just stuff it into your pocket a little more.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    iso: I like the rusty tie better. Note how much better the combination looks with the jacket open. Try a paler blue for the shirt. I like the cream silk (?) hank with this jacket.

    jfrater: The jacket's fabric doesn't look great, at least not in this context. Is it a raw silk? The shirt pattern isn't doing you any favors in this context, either. Plus one on the rumply trousers. I like the hank with that tie.

    stitchy: Stop hating on the knittery

    re button-downs, no one needs a button-down. Ever.
     
  11. jfrater

    jfrater Well-Known Member

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    Is this better?

    [​IMG]

    Incidentally I don't actually have any light gray trousers. Can you guys suggest four pants fabrics from lucite that I should get made?
     
    3 people like this.
  12. heldentenor

    heldentenor Well-Known Member

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  13. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    I just got a look at jfrater's jacket in a full-fat pic on my computer. NOPE. Sorry, hoss, but that is an unlovely fabric IMO. Both pattern and texture leave much to be desired.
     
  14. jfrater

    jfrater Well-Known Member

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    iso: I like the rusty tie better. Note how much better the combination looks with the jacket open. Try a paler blue for the shirt. I like the cream silk (?) hank with this jacket.

    jfrater: The jacket's fabric doesn't look great, at least not in this context. Is it a raw silk? The shirt pattern isn't doing you any favors in this context, either. Plus one on the rumply trousers. I like the hank with that tie.

    stitchy: Stop hating on the knittery

    re button-downs, no one needs a button-down. Ever.[/quote

    I think the jacket is wool - it doesn't say. Is there a thread that would help me know what jackets I need?
     
  15. jfrater

    jfrater Well-Known Member

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    Consider it gone. How's this? It's belvest.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2015
  16. Isolation

    Isolation Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys.

    Re Newcomer. Thanks! I agree with your comments, but I must say this (and other members on this thread have heard me ramble on this already): This is a personal choice in the sense that it is a personal personal choice as opposed to a personal aesthetic choice, but ignoring what people generally think looks good on most men, I prefer, for myself, a defined waisted and flared skirt, and a more feminine silhouette. The degree of this I want, and whether I can do this without obnoxious pulls and creases is something I plan on figuring out, but generally speaking that's something I want that I know a lot of people on SF don't, and that I'm not likely to change my mind on.

    Obviously that doesn't mean I plan to ignore everyone and never less waist suppression, it just means my end goal will not be to create something with a different kind of silhouette but rather, to create that silhouette in a more elegant manner.

    The blue shirt I was wearing actually was a small check design. Usually to pair shirts with SCs, instead of getting an OCBD I get the shirt more casual using slightly bolder checks and stripes:

    [​IMG]

    But this coat is so busy that I thought it was not possible. You know what I really wanted to wear? A linen shirt, but of course that makes supposedly no seasonal sense, though I wonder if it is since at one point all shirts were linen. Anyway that aside, I didn't have anything that isn't spread collar that's suitable color/patternwise so.. meh.

    I do usually wear my SCs unbuttoned/buttoned based on mood situation. I guess I button when it's cold, unbutton indoors, that kind of thing? I do like to go tieless I've actually specifically tried to wear more ties because I go tieless so often and my tie game is, as you can see, very subpar.

     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2015
  17. jfrater

    jfrater Well-Known Member

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    I love your jacket btw - where does one find something similar? Here's another option with a pochette: [​IMG]
     
  18. jfrater

    jfrater Well-Known Member

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    Thoughts on these jackets guys?

    [​IMG]
     
  19. heldentenor

    heldentenor Well-Known Member

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    All we can really judge from that picture is fabric and pattern, but I think the top tweed and the middle dark blue check could potentially be quite good. Lighter blue is a tough look that some folks (Claghorn) pull off really well, but it's not easy and I could not do it. The jacket on the far right is probably impossible to wear well.
     
  20. Cleav

    Cleav Well-Known Member

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    jf, top one looks promising indeed

    What's the details?
     

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