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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    The Minnis is more of a traditional woolen flannel while the Dugdale is in a twill weave that is more solid. I personally like the texture of the Minnis better, but both are good depending on what you want. The Hunt & Winterbotham seems to generally be more similar to the Minnis in terms of texture. The H&W at 12 ounces vs. 14 ounce weights for the Minnis / Dugdale may make them more attractive if you don't need the extra warmth.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    Older people may be more likely to wear pleated trousers. They're probably more likely to wear higher rise trousers too. That said, it is wrong to say that such things are specifically for older people. I'm still a flat front fan, but I definitely would not have a negative reaction to a young person wearing pleated trousers nor an old person wearing flat fronts. The only thing that matters is what looks best on you. Pleats are a bit more forgiving, can help create a nice drape to the trouser if the rise is high enough and look better seated than flat fronts. Good fit is important for both.

    Pleats look best with a higher rise. Flat fronts can work with a low rise. I like them fine with a higher rise too, but that is a bit more controversial.
     
  3. EFV

    EFV Well-Known Member

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    Nah, they're coming back in a big way. Plus, when you get used to the look, they're quite aesthetically pleasing.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2014
  4. The Noodles

    The Noodles Well-Known Member

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    A hotel maid came up to our room to clean and she started speaking to me in Chinese. I told her I was not Chinese. She told me that I sure looked like one. This is the same maid who spoke to my wife in English when I was not there. Wtf?!
     
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  5. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Well-Known Member

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    I'd wear those. It looks great!

    Curious what the leg opening is though!
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  6. The Noodles

    The Noodles Well-Known Member

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    Hmmm...I just like a clean flat front. That's just me. My statement regarding pleated pants were just something I picked up while growing up. Good to get some clarification.

    I thut wide lapels looked old fashioned but now am loving them. Maybe I will change my views after I look into them more.
     
  7. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Well-Known Member

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    I still don't like the wide lapels.
     
  8. kulata

    kulata Well-Known Member

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    When you have a sizeable behind then pleats become a necessity or flat fronts with darts.
     
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  9. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Well-Known Member

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    Thank you, that's very helpful. I'll go for the H&B then, the weight looks good and I think I'd prefer the texture over the Dugdale.

    Yep, I've found pleats to be much more comfortable, especially when sitting down. I spend 12 hours a day in my office chair, while I walk maybe an hour, so comfort is very important. Pleats are mainly a tailoring technique to help the transition of a narrower waist to wider legs, so it's very beneficial for athletic and portly people. People often forget that trousers are a very three dimensional object, so if you think about how trousers are being made, that extra fabric for the legs/hips/seat can't come out of nowhere. Pleats also break up the lines a bit, as a high rise flat front trouser can look a bit odd at times.

    They're actually making a comeback in RTW, as I had predicted about half a year ago. I'm seeing them more and more in London, and brands such as Suitsupply are starting to make pleated trousers, and higher end brands are following as well. Won't be long before flat fronts are out of style, not that you should care about that. Wear whatever looks best on your body type.
    8.5"
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2014
  10. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Well-Known Member

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    And if you don't mind offering, what's your height/weight?
     
  11. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Well-Known Member

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    6'2", 190lbs.
     
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  12. The Noodles

    The Noodles Well-Known Member

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    I have no @ss...
     
  13. rms340

    rms340 Well-Known Member

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    Don't be so hard on yourself Noodles.


    Sorry I couldn't resist
     
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  14. Isolation

    Isolation Well-Known Member

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    I've had my first pleated trousers made recently and they were AMAZING. I'll post pics soon but they look good, just different, but feels really nice while still fairly slim.
     
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  15. TM79

    TM79 Well-Known Member

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    I think we both said the same exact thing in different words which left me confused.
     
  16. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, it looks really good.

    I was asking because a suit I had altered has the same width, and I'm unsure whether I want to go lower. It's a BBGF suit, so not really cut slim. I think it looks pretty darn good though! I'll probably take it back to get slightly more tapered.

    And murl, winter sucks here. So so bad.
     
  17. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Well-Known Member

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    You're lifting weights, right? Better not to make things too slim, because your body will look very different a year from now if you keep lifting. For suits I have 8.75"-9" leg openings, and for odd trousers 8.5".
     
  18. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Well-Known Member

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    I'm 5 10 and 170 with 8/8.5 shoes, having pants with 8ish is probably the sweet spot for me.
     
  19. TM79

    TM79 Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure how many years you've been here, but wait until you go through a winter where it really snows. Last year was abnormally freezing all over this region but we got pretty lucky in terms of snowfall.
     
  20. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Well-Known Member

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    I've been in New England for 8 years.

    Four years at wesleyan in ct for undergrad and 4 years now in beantown.

    I prefer the snow. It's sloppy but it's typically a warmer winter. Last winter was brutally cold through and through. It sucked.
     

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