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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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    I don't like the quarters on some of those Eidos. Too extreme. Looks like a morning coat.

    I like the idea of rounded quarters, but this is waaaaayyy too extreme

    @Claghorn are you B&T's this rounded?


    "Good" rounded

     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  2. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    I agree with you, @jrd617
    The first pics I saw of that new Eidos line looked promising, but in the end it looks a bit like a Liverano caricature, IMHO.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    jrd = worlds biggest hater
     
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  4. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    Relax man, he's not talking about your Eidos. ;)
     
  5. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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    Things I hate that sitchy loves

    -Wolf of Wall Street
    -#scooters
    -El Supremo blog
    -Barbour Mcqueen jacket
    -Eidos Napoli rounded quarter cut

    :nodding:
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2014
  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Mine aren't that round, though my last piece, which will be picked up tomorrow, has quarters definitely rounder than my older stuff.

    Stuff I hate that Stitchy likes:
    * Overuse of gifs (more than one a page)
    * Deliberate mispellings that don't do anything to shorten a word or phrase
    * expressing emotion
     
  7. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Well-Known Member

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    You're all using that single picture of Greg, while several pages back it was decided that the rounded quarters look awesome on Antonio's suits.

    Things I don't like that SF likes:
    -making sweeping generalizations based on a single selfie
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    Absolutely agree, but.... in this case it's not a single selfie, but several selfies. For example the one of Antonio, right above Greg's shows the same. As I've noted in that discussion of a few pages back, I think it's a result of the Eidos' lower button stance, making the 'rounding off' look more exaggerated. Looks like you couldn't even button the lower button if you wanted, unlike on the Liveranos....
     
  9. DeSense

    DeSense Well-Known Member

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    ^+1 that last sentence. The lower button is not aligned with the main.
     
  10. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    Are you referring to using emoticons? Or expressing emotions in general? Because that would be f***ing hard for me...
     
  11. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

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    The cut is probably not for everyone (and from judging the reactions in this thread, you guys feel it is not for me), and it's fine to prefer less open quarters but I think it's unfair (let alone misguided) to Antonio to call it a "caricature". It is not, it is a RTW interpretation of a very distinctive bespoke cut. I think he cut (and its successor for next year called Ciro) is one of the most attractive RTW cuts out there and probably the #1 in my book when taking price point, fabric quality, provenance and quality of construction into play. It pains me to see some of the stuff that gets praised here (some true caricatures of #menswear fads mass-manufactured at the lowest possible cost) and then read this about the Eidos product. Some pics that show the rounded shape of the Liverano quarters.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Is this thread still supposed to be "educational"...?
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2014
    7 people like this.
  12. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    elio: The latter. An inside joke.

    +1 to the Eidos love. It didnt look good on gdl in a few pictures (where the buttoning point seemed too low for such dramatic quarters), but everywhere else I've seen the cut, it looked great. So I'm chalking it up to the pictures
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  13. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Well-Known Member

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    It looks awesome, and I have no doubt that people will love this cut once they see it in real life. It's just hard to interpret a 3D cut in a 2D picture at times. You've got your work cut out for you when it comes to product photography. Will you stock any suits, or jackets only?
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2014
  14. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Well-Known Member

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    GOD! This is beautiful! Seems effortless but yet excellent.
     
  15. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    @gdl203 , it was me who used the word 'caricature'. I agree that is too strong, but perhaps it's my limited grasp of English (not my first language): I couldn't readily find a better word to express what I meant. Maybe I should just have said it looks a bit too exaggerated to me. In no way did I mean to denigrate Antonio and his stellar work with Eidos.
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2014
  16. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    I agree on not judging too much by a single pic of Greg's who has himself detailed why the front might seem more open than it really is: light colored lower rise pants and, by his own admission, a wider hip that makes RTW less of an option for him. These seem plausible explanations of why things might seem more open.

    Honestly best thing to do is just order one if you can and try it on. But we all know that.
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2014
  17. kulata

    kulata Well-Known Member

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    @jrd617 you are comparing guys standing at an angle to a camera and guys standing straight in front of the camera. This is a better comparison (Taka) and they are not all that different from the Eidos

    The cut isn't going to work for a lot of people just like any other cut. And lets stop sweeping generalizations based on one dimensional pics.

    [​IMG]

    And you need to post fit pics. At least one :D
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  18. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    What do folks think of jetted pockets on SCs? Odd? Ok? I've seen a lot on RTW recently and would have thought patched>flapped>jetted. Ethan's first photo in Greg's post either is jetted or, perhaps, he's tucked the flaps in.
     
  19. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    I think Greg said 4 SCs, and some mix of overcoats and suits. When I visited, I believe he was particularly excited about the overcoats (and generally excited by the whole lot). I'm certainly excited by what's coming. Lots of people are sort of sleeping on Eidos, perhaps. It's not widely available, and even here, except for recently among a few folks (ahem), not gotten as much web time beyond the interviews with Antonio etc. That is, not lots of fit pics from outside Pitti or Nick Pollica's (Antonio's) posts.

    That will, alas, change very soon...
     
  20. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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    @kulata here's apples to apples

    Eidos looks off to me. Something to do with the amount of cutaway, the shape of the lapels/quarters and the button stance.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    versus

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2014

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