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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Rudals

    Rudals Well-Known Member

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    Blowing money like tissue paper...
     
  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    We need to look at the bright side--that's an excellent combination.
     
    2 people like this.
  3. Rudals

    Rudals Well-Known Member

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    Can I add pads to the shoulder to look somewhat decent?
     
  4. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Did you try the next size up? I don't think these NM or SFA sales people were doing you any favors here.

    You don't have a clean shoulder line so I suppose a more structured shoulder might help, but that isn't what is jumping out at me. You are not getting a clean curve as the shoulder goes to the arm, though that might be in part because of your bulging bicep--stop working out! Those aren't divots at the shoulder, I think, but they aren't clean (see pingson in HOF for a recent clean look I just saw).

    The lines of your lapel collar seem to bulge a bit (not a straight, sharp V, more closer to a "U") so perhaps that is why Mimo suggested the chest doesn't fit you and it is why I asked about sizing up. That said, always hard to judge from a shot. We live in jackets after all, move in them.

    Post in the tailor's thread for more on what you might be able to do. Despos is hanging out there these days, and you're not going to find a more knowledgeable source on tailoring right now in SF.

    Oh, and that gray suit on the last page looks like &)*()^&*! Is that what they are peddling to those of means? Yikes. Go NMWA for sure.

    Edit: again my fact I console myself with all the time in my own case--Just about everyone else outside of SF will think you look great.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  5. Rudals

    Rudals Well-Known Member

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    Much appreciate the feedback TweetyProf. I wonder if it is the jacket construction or more of my body (changed since purchasing). I need to get back into shape but I get the feeling that this suit just wasnt for me.
     
  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    A word about Koreans--as soon as they get something, they take it all the way. Provided his wife allows it and he sticks with it, Rudals is going to be the best dressed UCBD poster on the forum by fall 2015. Mark it in your calendar.
     
    2 people like this.
  7. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Your welcome (though try Despos, he's the man).

    The thing to remember about SF is that in this context, we're picky about details. But in the end, when you walk out the door, you're likely to get compliments (which of course you'll accept graciously, but now with a knowing smile).

    Enjoy your suit even if you know what needs to be changed. Just work on the next one (and watch those sales people...some will say anything to sell you a suit). Stitches is a walking advert (in his pics) for trying on the Formosa suits, so check out NMWA.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    I hope Stitches won't mind my saying this, but I was rereading the first 20 or so pages in the Good Taste thread. I saw Stitches first post which wasn't bad, but you have to compare the one pic that survived in 2012 to any of the recent fit pics (Stitches was seriously into purple back then[​IMG]).

    Rudals check it out. It took Stitches a year or so to move from meh to playing with the big boys in that thread. I wish I could demonstrate such steep learning.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Rudals is going to be textbook well executed UCBD. Count it.
     
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  10. Rudals

    Rudals Well-Known Member

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    Well, thx Clag. I am open to all feedbacks and constructive criticisms (are they the same words?). I am willing to learn and change whatever it is that I am doing wrong. But doesn't mean I will just lay down and have no personality of my own. I believe I have been quite open minded and will remain so.

    Anyhow, I hope to get there by the end of this year and I am officially calling it quits from NM. They not only have sold me $hitty ties but also a mediocre suit. I am trying to get back to my lean form so the jackets and my shirts should be fitting better soon.

    Was the suit any better before I packed on 5 to 10 pounds of fat? The shoulders still look narrow.


    [​IMG]
     
  11. Rudals

    Rudals Well-Known Member

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    This might be the best fit I had.
    [​IMG]
     
  12. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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    ^ Noodles, best to leave the top button unbuttoned on that jacket. Not mandatory like the bottom button on a two-button jacket, but it will look better
     
  13. Rudals

    Rudals Well-Known Member

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    I did once but I just liked this look better. More formal. But I can roll either way.
     
  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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    Noodles, why u pay full price for soots???? :fu:

    You should ask this thread next time before you kop so we can find you a better version if you like a certain fabric!!!! Stop getting blinded by the brand names!! As @mimo said, that's what got you into trouble with the Neiman ties!!!


     
  15. Rudals

    Rudals Well-Known Member

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    Oh, don't you worry! I have you guys and the Mrs Rudals to prevent me from making dumb decisions like these.
    I just thought, since I don't know what is good and what is bad and what to look for, if I went with what is expensive that I will end up with a nice suit.
    Same thing with ties.
    I thought EXPENSIVE = GOOD
     
  16. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure it's the shoulder-to-shoulder measurement per se but how your arm relates to your shoulder.

    There was another guy in WAYWRN who I directed to Despos. Basically, a larger upper arm needs different construction at the shoulder (the relevant measureent is where the tailor measures your shoulder/chest including your arms...there is a term for this which I don't remember). The person in question (in a similar position to you) was a former football player so had very muscular arms but caused the same issue at the shoulder. The upper arm is bulging a bit so you break the clean line along the arm. I'm guessing you have a similar issue.

    Anyway, if you can go Isaia at full price, why not go bespoke? Umbel has a write-up of someone in the DC area (see Ivory Tower Style). I'm sure there are others in SF who can speak to this (and Despos travels to DC too). Or get Clags to lend you his tailor.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    never been a huge fran of sharkskin. not sure why.


    he defo has the drive.


    this is probably true. lets see it, rudals.
     
  18. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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  19. Rudals

    Rudals Well-Known Member

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    I know a good tailor in DC. I was going to go see him for a bespoke but Stitchie and Clag talked me out of it because I've yet to figure out what kind of look I want.
    Mr. Fields in Georgetown, DC has been recommended by many thus far. He starts off at $3k.
     
  20. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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