1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,047
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011
    I think the charge is due to all the handwork involved. I believe the jacket is taken across the ocean by hand in a row boat and then walked to your doorstep.
     
    3 people like this.
  2. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,885
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    

    It better be an Italian boat with vintage oars and unpadded seats, made from all natural materials and rowed by an elderly gentleman who has been doing this since he was 15.

    But yeah, I ain't paying no 260 for shipping.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  3. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,106
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    That's not lots of handwork shipping, it's F*ck you shipping.

    MF, you need a NYC proxy.
     
    2 people like this.
  4. V1KTA222

    V1KTA222 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    144
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2013
    Thanks everyone for your thoughts. It's helping me learn a great deal - I think I am beginning to understand the cut not being right for me. At the moment, my body is a little pear shaped and I should find jackets that don't accentuate this (and of course, continue working out!).

    The navy suit is a London cut from suit supply. I may be overvaluing the eidos since it's quality is head and shoulders above suit supply, but I was able to get it at close to suit supply pricing. Otherwise, it is well beyond my current means. As an experiment I may try to go back to Bloomingdales and try on a size up in the eidos and see how it fits, barring it hasn't been sold.
     
  5. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,106
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    You want to go a size down if anything, not up. I'm still in favor of the Eidos suit, L, over the Eidos R sports coat for reasons I noted above. Nip the waist and it should look quite good to everyone outside of SF and to most within it..
     
  6. Celadon

    Celadon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    208
    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2012
    Location:
    Somewhere else
    Cautiously wondering if anybody here might be able to take a (good-natured) guess at a distinction in SuitSupply's terminology:

    What is the difference between a "coat" and an "overcoat"?

    Is one supposed to be thicker and warmer than the other?

    This is what they call an "overcoat":

    [​IMG]


    This, on the other hand, is a "coat":

    [​IMG]


    Despite the different-looking lapels and the presence of a breast pocket in the latter, SuitSupply consider these particular two examples to be of the same "fit" (Moore). The length seems to be the same. Most "overcoats" seem to lack a breast pocket, but one of them, a brown and scarily hairy-looking thing made from Alpaca, has one, so that is clearly not it.
     
  7. kulata

    kulata Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,834
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    
    Actually sizing up to get more shoulder width and jacket length. But for all practical purposes, as you stated, the current suit/jacket is fine, just nip the waist and enjoy your fully canvassed eidos suit/jacket. The real world is not a 24 hour SF selfie.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,885
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    I think an overcoat is meant to be worn over a suit, while a normal coat isn't. But does it really matter what they call it? Try both on and get the one you like best. I like their navy herringbone wool/cashmere, camel and casentino coats much better btw, although I wish they were longer. I'd swap out the buttons on the grey one as well. Luxire could probably make you one for around the same price.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  9. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,106
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    

    Agreed

    On the jacket size up wrt to what you noted but down wrt the chest. I think the long is what he needs wrt hips. Try both.

    I bet if he takes the waist in on the charcoal suit, pairs with the right accessories, he will get 20+ thumbs in WAYWRN, which is to say even most of SFers will be happy with it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014
  10. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,834
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2011
    Location:
    Dallas, TX
    

    Sure man, next time you're here or I'm in B-more, we can totally get our grub on.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,885
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    Well, just bought this Derek Rose wool dressing gown, so no Eidos for me. I've always wanted to have a nice dressing gown, and now I finally have an apartment that's big enough to actually wear one.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. jungleroller

    jungleroller Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,280
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2013
    Location:
    Chicago
    I need me some camel overcoat in my life. I was thinking double breased but that SS one is pretty nice.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,964
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2013
    Location:
    Melbourne - Sydney - Shanghai
    ^ Huh? Every single SS overcoat posted on this page is double-breasted as far as I can tell.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. AJL

    AJL Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,626
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2004
    Fellow Noodlers,

    I'd like to shift this conversation for a moment to a topic I'm sure you'll all agree is worthy of your consideration: the ongoing saga of my Buttero's in relation to fit and orthotic inserts.

    To catch those of you up who have not followed closely, I have had an issue with regards to compression or tightness in the forefoot, accompanied by the unpleasant sensation of my feet being thrust forward, scrunching my toes against the front of the shoe. Walking downhill has been a most unpleasant experience, as you might imagine. To roll the tape back for a moment: I wear custom orthotics, essentially hard plastic inserts molded to my foot that run from the heel to just before the ball of my foot.

    The rest of the story: long version
    Back to present: in a moment of razor-sharp clarity, it dawned on me that the reason my toes were getting scrunched along with the feeling of always being propelled forward was all due to the orthotics. If I removed them, presto! instant easing of all pressure up front. The downside, naturally is that my feet were no longer supported, dare I say coddled, in a manner to which they'd become accustomed.

    What to do, what to do? I pondered long and hard, then i did this: removed the hard leather factory insole and replaced it with an insole from an athletic shoe that was more compliant, allowing the orthotics to settle back in the heel a bit, thus relieving some of the pressure up front. Better.

    Ah, you say, is that it, end of story, d-u-n dun? Not so fast my smooth talking, straight walking fellow sartorialists.

    The results were better, but not the best, or at least, not as good as I thought they could be. Overcome by yet another "Eureka" moment I did this: removed the athletic insole and --wait for it--replaced only the orthotic! The results were astounding: A+ comfort accompanied by a general feeling of smug satisfaction. I had conquered the beast of discomfort, laid it low, made it my bitch. I stood on top of the mountain and surveyed all that lay before me. Confidently I descended to the valley below, in long, comfortable strides, to claim all that was rightfully mine, or so I thought.

    Just as I prepared to descend I was momentarily frozen by a twinge of doubt: what if there was something more to the removal of said insole, what if it played a more critical role beyond merely comfort? Perhaps it served another purpose, perhaps it was also there to wick away perspiration, to leave our lowest appendages crisp and dry, while preventing the shoe itself from giving off an unholy stench, emanating from the very depths of hell?

    Worn as described for several hours today, with no apparent issues. What say you, Wizards of Wool, Lions of Linen, Conquerers of Cotton? Does this seem like a sound idea, or one sprung from the Halls of Bedlam?



    Short version :
    So, here's what I did:
    I took out the hard leather insert, and replaced only the plastic orthotic, sitting atop the spongy rubber "sub"insole. Cool, or not? will my feet sweat, causing the shoes to stink to holy hell and beyond? Worn for several hrs already today, and no issues I've noticed. What say you, Wizards of Wool, Lions of Linen, Kings of Cotton? Yea or nay?

    Thanks for your consideration, I hope you feel your time here was well spent.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014
  15. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    68,895
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    

    Can.

    Not.

    Wait.

    ---

    Also, I love outerwear. I have more coats than suits or SCs.
     
  16. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,959
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    I wish it got cold enough here for outerwear. I loves it too.
     
    2 people like this.
  17. AJL

    AJL Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,626
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2004
    

    I love it 3 (and it does get cold enuf in Btown). @in stitches what size did you get in esemplare parka, 42? It's very cool looking (no pun). Warm? You're a 42 jacket, rt?

    What about pedAL ED winter adventure jacket; anyone roqqing this?
     
  18. Celadon

    Celadon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    208
    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2012
    Location:
    Somewhere else
    That could be it, except that they show at least one "coat" (the Camel one) being worn over what appears to be a suit, and the (light) brown (almost off-white) coat is clearly worn over at least two parts of a three-piece suit (you can see the waistcoat but not the jacket, but it could still be there under the coat).

    Not that the styling of SuitSupply's catalogue is much to go by. I just expect them to have some notion of why they call a garment one thing and not another.

    I like all of them, sort of. I'm not entirely convinced that I appreciate the Casentino as much I probably should, but I like a bit more obvious texture and pattern than the blue or camel coats, which both look too "slick" to me. The above-mentioned very light (nearly off-white) brown coat is also nice, but it will only take one nearby pass of a bus through a puddle of water or dirty slush to make it look far less nice.

    In either case, I only think SuitSupply have released a part of their autumn/winter collection. A lot of similar looking things: all coats are DB while nearly no suits or jackets are.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014
  19. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    68,895
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    

    99% sure I ended up with the XXL. Its stupid how warm that coat is. And its freaking awesome.
     
  20. Celadon

    Celadon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    208
    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2012
    Location:
    Somewhere else
    Speaking of outerwear, I like the dramatic look and the (presumably warm) fur collar of the Portuguese Capote:

    http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2014/01/the-capote-a-portuguese-cape.html#.U-gveHaRZAE
    http://www.beyondfabric.eu/category/capes

    Only thing is that, when buttoned as below, it won't give as much warmth to one's mid-section as to the upper back and shoulders. Would it be considered inappropriate to wear it with the bottom button closed? I guess it evolved in a climate with occasional chilly ocean winds and rain but no really biting winter cold. (I've never been to Portugal, just making assumptions.)

    [​IMG]
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by