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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Well-Known Member

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    ^ I prefer the Tipo too. Don't fancy those open quarters/fronts/hocks or whatever they are called.

    Thoughts please on these two briefcases, both made by the same company. These are the ONLY two pieces available at this store (assuming neither has been sold yet, which is entirely possible). They are not going to get any more.

    The red one is a nicer colour, but a less convenient size (I often have to carry a camera and miscellaneous bits of equipment, as well as the usual laptop, spectacle cases, documents and so on). They are the same price. Medium quality construction, quite thick leather, very nicely done on the inside too.

    If the bigger design were available in burgundy, I would kop without hesitation. OTOH if I had to choose between these two, I'd probably take the smaller burgundy one. But - does it look too stupidly small?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Close-up of the larger, black briefcase:

    [​IMG]

    Can anyone identify this brand? It's apparently Hungarian, and also available online from an Austrian or German retailer, although I haven't been able to track it down.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    Interesting how everybody here was initially so enthusiastic about Eidos' upcoming Lorenzo cut and now, based on a single photo, they all seem to prefer the older cut....
    FWIW, I think in Greg's photo the open quarters/fronts are over emphasized due to the very light trousers and the perspective. It makes for a somewhat uncomfortable impression, since your eyes get drawn to his crotch now....
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    I'm still grabbing one when they pop up. I think it looks great.
     
  4. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Well-Known Member

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    Lorenzo looks like RTW Liverano & Liverano moreso than Formosa, imo, with those super-rounded corners. Tipo is my preference; perfect silhouette for someone my age/build.
     
  5. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

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    You guys may already know this but this is the inspiration for Antonio's Lorenzo design. An homage to Liverano's cut. The C shape of the lapel and quarter line is an essential part of that aesthetic.

    It isn't for everyone (as evidenced by the reactions) but I think it's a gorgeous cut.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2014
    4 people like this.
  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    My next jacket has that C cut. Pretty excited about it.

    In four years, 4 inch lapels are going to be the new 2 inch lapels. The difference is that they'll look awesome.

    Still, I'll be sticking with 3.5, both because it'll "age" better, being a bit more moderate, and it is nicely proportional to my head and shoulders. Though my head could probably handle 4.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    You should surely do. My point was, we've seen many pics of that Lorenzo cut already and it looked great, so why dismiss it based on a single pic? Personally I'd have a problem with the low buttoning point. It elongates the body, which is what I don't need. Same happens with Formosa, that's why that looks so spectacular on tall skinny guys as yourself. The Lorenzo should look great on you too.
     
  8. Apollotrader

    Apollotrader Well-Known Member

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    scale on the smaller one is off for your body size, imo. As for the maker, I am not familiar, which is only mildly interesting because of my leather goods obsession.
     
  9. vida

    vida Well-Known Member

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    Lorenzo, for me. I thinks it looks less formal, less traditional. The open quarters and "rounded shape" soften the look.
     
  10. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    I got ya....and thanks.
     
  11. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    Compare those two pics and see the genius of the Liverano cut: from lapels through to the quarters/front/skirt (whatever you want to call them) you see one continuous arc. The Eidos, in contrast, due to its lower buttoning point (too low, IMHO) seems to 'sag' a bit. Makes for a somewhat 'tired' look compared to the more 'livelier' looking Liverano (apologies for the clumsy vocabulary). All just personal opinion of course...
     
    2 people like this.
  12. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Well-Known Member

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    Well the Eidos jacket is RTW, and the Liverano & Liverano bespoke. Apples and oranges
     
  13. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Independent of whom it is cut for, it looks like the Liverano symmetry is both horizontal and vertical, whereas the Eidos is only vertical. I think those open quarters require both. The Eidos looks quite good, but I do think I higher buttoning point would have made it truly excellent
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  14. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    I'm afraid you missed my point, it's not about RTW vs. bespoke. It's the overall silhouette. But perhaps I wasn't really clear. Please, see @Claghorn 's post above.
     
  15. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Well-Known Member

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    The tipo has plenty of room in the chest, probably the same as the Lorenzo. I wouldn't call it drape, but there is some extra material, creating a very nice chest shape. The chest is not as swelled as my Sartoria Partenopea suits, but that might be a bit too dramatic for a sportcoat. I prefer more extended and pleated shoulder than the tipo, simply because of the increased range of movement and comfort. The Lorenzo would probably look stunning as a navy suit.

    Having said all that, the Tipo is a very clean cut, and creates a powerful and masculine silhouette, without being too much in your face. I've gotten loads of compliments on all of my Eidos items in the tipo cut. They usually go something like this: I don't know what it is, but that jacket looks very good on you.

    *written while standing in line for the bathroom at a bar, so excuse any typos.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2014
  16. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Well-Known Member

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    I'll disagree with Claghorn's premise and will say it is always somewhat dependent on who it's cut for. Different body types will fill the same cut differently; I think that goes without saying.
    [​IMG]
    While I do agree there seems to be some what you called "sag" with the jacket on gdl, I don't see it here.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2014
  17. losrockets

    losrockets Well-Known Member

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    MF: Masculine is exactly the word that comes to mind when I think of the Tipo fit on you. Going to have to pick one up soon.
    @jaywhyy what am I looking at in your picture?
     
  18. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    True for any jacket, which shouldn't stop us from weighing one cut against the other. The "problem" (I use the term loosely as it's still a lovely jacket and a lovely cut) is the the open quarters seemed very rushed. There is no grand arc from the buttoning point as you see in the Liverano. Symmetry is appealing. Plain and simple. The Liverano cut achieves that (or at least, is capable of doing so) whereas the Eidos cut only hints at the possibility. And that may be worse than had it had a less idiosyncratic cut, because then our minds wouldn't be looking for the symmetry. Though of course there will be some body types that will look better in Eidos than in Liverano (fit controlled for)

    On the flip side, it is an homage and not mimicry. It shouldn't necessarily be same.

    Thoughts? @NickPollica
     
  19. kulata

    kulata Well-Known Member

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    I don't think so. The cuts are not too indifferent when it comes to how they appear on an axis. I think the eidos cut simply doesn't work for Greg, he doesn't have enough drop between his shoulders and hips and the buttoning point and quarters makes it worse coz it somehow accentuates his hips. Compare this with the ones worn by Nick below:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  20. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, those look great. I wonder if the angle on gdl's makes the buttoning point appear lower.
     

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