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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jssdc

    jssdc Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    New York
    In addition to what others have suggested I'll put up the Cheaney Irvine. Grain/suede upper, commando sole, shearling lined. I wore mine for a week in the Alps with no issues, and then several times in snow thereafter. Only thing I would point out is that a ridgeway sole is better than commando in some respects. The heel of the commando tends to pick up a bunch of snow junk when there's sand or gravel on the sidewalk.

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  2. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Well-Known Member

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    *spam* Now that we're talking about boots, I do have some gorgeous double leather soled boots for sale *spam*
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2014
  3. aglose

    aglose Well-Known Member

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    Are the Islays and Snowdons bellowed?
     
  4. AJL

    AJL Well-Known Member

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    Holy crap, away for an afternoon and Noodles' thread explodes. Return of the stitchmeister?

    MF: leave waist alone, looks good. Re: shoulder "expression" (sounds pretentious, but that's what they call it), try the rope, sure. Your body type will work with either, it's just a matter of personal preference.

    Snow boots: srsly?? What's next, down parka reviews & pics?

    Fishing in leather boots: srsly x 2? Is this what gentlemen anglers do? Must be a cultural/historical thing (Izaak Walton)? Personally, if I'm in the water it's either waders or nothing.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. CTBrummie

    CTBrummie Well-Known Member

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    Jan 26, 2012
    Location:
    Birmingham, UK








    The Rannoch boot by Hoggs would be the best choice of all the ones mentioned, I'd say - simply because I think it's the only boot currently available with a full bellows tongue. A few models have half-bellows tongue which are fine until you get into deeper snow or water. Currently the Rannoch is made by Cheaney and the older versions were made by Alfred Sargent.

    Cheaney's Irvine boot is lovely and I was hoping for colder weather last winter so I could've worn mine more...but no bellows tongue. And most Grensons are made of corrected grain, with the STP Tricker's possibly being of inferior quality to normal models - they're not built on the regular country lasts and the pair I handled was made of noticeably lower-grade leather than Tricker's mainstream models, and I'm not the only one to have noticed this.

    Or follow that link that Crat posted and see if you can track down an old pair of Lotus veldtschoen boots in your size - "guaranteed waterproof" - and never worry about wet feet again! I've a pair that were originally bought by someone as private purchase officer's boots in WW2 and they're absolutely bulletproof and, I suspect, will easily outlive me...

    Quote: Oh, you noticed! Have you seen many other people wearing similar shoes on their way to work? Just change into them when you're there... :)
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. aglose

    aglose Well-Known Member

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    Colorado, USA
    So many beautiful boots to consider. All of the suggestions are fantastic, but currently the cheapest is the Rannoch. It is not my most favorite boot, and I am talking with C&J to see if they will come up with something as well. Decisions decisions....... Thank you all for the help also, like I said every suggestion here was a great one and I would be hard pressed to make a wrong decision. Being on a college campus means that the walkways are almost always plowed, so the snow is often not too high. That being said, if I'm going to invest in a pair of boots, they better be able to withstand a foot or more of snow and last me for at least ten years (resoles when necessary, of course)
     
  7. ellsbebc

    ellsbebc Well-Known Member

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    @Monkeyface are the trousers roomy enough in the thigh? I never tried SP with fear the cut is too trim. For reference, my thighs are approaching 26" at widest point and usually wear a 34" trouser waist.
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2014
  8. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Well-Known Member

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    I have about 26" quads as well, and the trousers fit me well.
     
  9. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Well-Known Member

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    Perhaps I am uttering some kind of unspeakable SF heresy here, but if you really have to trudge through serious snow at any point, surely the best footwear ever made on this planet for such conditions is the Canadian "Sorel" boot?

    [​IMG]
    OK, they are probably not as svelte as some of the other options listed here. But Walter Gropius would have approved of their style, I'm sure. Form, after all, should follow function. No?
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    A good practical suggestion.

    I think we've done well with boots now?

    Shifting gears, MF posted a picture of a pointed Liverano knit. I am wearing my lands end knit today (midnight, nice and crunchy) and have been enjoying the very open weave, seems very appropriate for summer. That gets me over my dislike of the square end (I know, it's a knit tie...).

    Kent Wang has some nice pointed knits though they never go on sale (...I also hope Kent increases the size of his squares after our input in the WAYWRN thread).

    Question: knit or a grossa grenadine that is unlined, untipped?

    Both would be open, although the knit would have the more open weave.
     
  11. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Both. Knit is more casual, though. Eventually I'll have staple colors in both knit and grenadine.
     
  12. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    How open are your unlined grenadines (e.g. can you see through them to your shirt at close distance?) Hober, yes? They knot ok?
     
  13. aglose

    aglose Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Colorado, USA
    Ok now fit issues, as promised a picture of my boglioli jacket that I can't decide if it's worth having altered or not. Pics in the spoiler to save you. From my ugly mug.
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  14. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    

    I have unlined Hober and Panta, but they are both Fina weaves. You can see through them at the tip in the right light, as well as along the edges. They knot wonderfully of course. Still, I wear knits more than grenadines.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. ellsbebc

    ellsbebc Well-Known Member

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    The pattern matching is excellent. However, that buttoning point looks like its at chest level.
     
  16. kulata

    kulata Well-Known Member

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    Nice jacket.

    Alter the sleeves and if the waist is not to your liking then nip the waist (I won't).

    Buttoning point is fine for what it is, a casual jacket. Enjoy your Boglioli.
     
  17. aglose

    aglose Well-Known Member

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    Thank you, for sure the jacket sleeves need about an inch up and I love this jacket so very much. I'm not sure about the waist, maybe I'll start with the sleeves and live with it for a few days.
     
  18. Rudals

    Rudals Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    Did y'all know that the standard width for Sam Hober grenadine was 3.75"?
    I got an email from them and that's what they have on record.
    So I measured what I had at home and it was 3.75".
    Never thought that they were that wide. It never looked that wide.
     
  19. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Aglose:

    Hard to tell without a sense of the overall view (e.g. head to toe), but my thought is that you might try to wear it unbuttoned. The checks are large and to my eye, its sort of a sea of checks, if you get my drift (e.g. see Kulata's very nice brown check in WAYWRN which he wore unbuttoned).

    I think if you unbutton it, then it will break that in a pleasing way. Plus, with it unbuttoned, the buttoning point issue (which is hard to judge from these pics) will not be an issue.

    Extra thought which you didn't ask for: I'd go with a solids for now in this fit. E.g. a navy knit or grenadine. Pink is ok, but again, stay solid rather than stripes. Let the jacket speak for itself.
     
    2 people like this.
  20. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Don't worry about it. It's not the measurement per se, it's how it looks.

    And yes, I read the Hober site. David takes 3.75 to be the classic width. Yours look fine. Enjoy.
     
    1 person likes this.

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