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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. smittycl

    smittycl Well-Known Member

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    Archimede is another. I bought their Pilot H in 42mm. No logos onthe H version so it looks clean. Both Archimede and Stowa are really casemakers vs. watchmakers but still pretty impressive.

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  2. TM79

    TM79 Well-Known Member

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    I think it's the latter, which isn't bad considering they never had a proper sale before.
     
  3. sprout2

    sprout2 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for confirming.

    What is everyone's choice for the worst menswear department store in New York, among those that are considered passably good? What is the worst of the best? My vote is Barney's.
     
  4. BespokeBrooklyn

    BespokeBrooklyn Well-Known Member

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    Hickey Freeman windowpane suit at a local thrift shop. $145. The trousers have never been worn, and are unhemmed. The jacket's pockets have been opened, but has no obvious signs of wear.

    There is a small moth hole on the front of the right trouser leg. Is that sort of thing possible to repair without ugly-ing up the suit? If so, would the cost of the repair be such that the suit is no longer worth buying?

    For what it's worth, this would be a "rotation" suit, mainly for the office -- I wouldn't wear wool this heavy to court or to dressy events.

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  5. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    The hole can be repaired. The best looking option is re-weaving, a labor intensive and expensive method. There is a place near me in Chicago called Without A Trace that is one of the best in the country. You can send stuff there if you aren't local. They have repaired one of my jackets and do a great job. A pinhole cost me $80, so it ain't cheap.
     
    3 people like this.
  6. BespokeBrooklyn

    BespokeBrooklyn Well-Known Member

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    This is a photo of the hole:

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    Looks about the same size as the hole I had repaired, but they can give you a specific quote. It's good that it's on a solid part of the cloth. Re-weaving patterned cloth is tricky and doesn't always look good.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. BespokeBrooklyn

    BespokeBrooklyn Well-Known Member

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    What about the fit? Would you consider it to be worth buying at that price, considering the damage? If I can have it repaired and altered for a total of about $300?

    I work in a government office, so I need to wear a suit every day, but most people (myself included) wear inexpensive suits other than on days we're in court. I save my money for shoes and casual clothes. This would by, by far, the fanciest label in my work rotation.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2016
  9. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    The fit isn't bad at all, IMO. Whether it is worth it is up to you. I can only tell you what I would do. Personally, Hickey Freeman is nice, but it is nowhere near top of the heap in terms of clothing manufacturers. With alterations and repairs you are looking at a budget of $445 for a used suit. For that money you could get a new Suit Supply suit that would probably look a little more contemporary.

    If we were talking about an Oxxford suit or a Canali, yeah, maybe I'd do it. For a Hickey Freeman? No. I'd take that $300 and put it toward a new suit. As for the thrift store find, I'd have it patched, or sewn, shut and just accept it as in imperfection.
     
    3 people like this.
  10. heldentenor

    heldentenor Well-Known Member

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    Solid advice on both counts from Caustic--and thanks for the Without A Trace rec. My favorite grey suit has a small hole that's almost imperceptible, but knowing it's there is killing me.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    The best reason to get the hole repaired is so that it doesn't get any bigger, of course.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. BespokeBrooklyn

    BespokeBrooklyn Well-Known Member

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    In other words, worth buying and repairing in a manner that's less expensive than re-weaving? Save reweaving for the very fancy stuff?

     
  13. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    Pretty much. Personally I don't know if I'd buy that suit. It's just not my style. But if you like it, and don't mind it having a scar, then go for it.
     
  14. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

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    @BespokeBrooklyn is the hole on the front or back of the pant leg?

    If the back, why not just have your local cleaner sew it up?
     
  15. hooker4186

    hooker4186 Well-Known Member

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    That's at a Housing Works right? It won't sell at $145, wait for them to either drop the price after a few weeks, or for one of their sale days where they do 50% off or something similar.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. BespokeBrooklyn

    BespokeBrooklyn Well-Known Member

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    Unfortunately, it is in the front. Others may not be able to see it, but I'll know it's there. It's a shame, too, because the trousers are still unfinished, and thus, presumably, never worn.


    Good eye! Yes, it is a Housing Works; they can't get all that many men in my size looking for suits.
    In their best of fall sale three years ago, shortly after I started putting more effort into how I dress, I found a pair of brown Allen Edmonds Chester wingtips ($15), one pair of Facconable jeans with tags on ($40) a pair of 7 for all Mankind jeans with tags on ($30) a buttery brown leather Ralph Lauren belt ($20) and a solid, textured, yellow Brooks Brothers tie ($15). I've always checked out their "best of" sales ever since, but haven't quite gotten that lucky again.
     
  17. JilSlander

    JilSlander Well-Known Member

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    Hey everyone, what's the consensus in regards to tailoring suit pants?

    I tried some on, but the waist is about 1-1.5" too big and the leg could use some slimming (~1" from the crotch downwards). Is this too much tailoring that'll throw off the fit of the pants?

    The suit jacket is spot-on, however.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2016
  18. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

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    It doesn't sound like it. Should be fine, assuming your tailor/alterations person has some idea what they're doing.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. heldentenor

    heldentenor Well-Known Member

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    Yep--an absolutely normal, par-for-the-course alteration.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. JilSlander

    JilSlander Well-Known Member

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    ^ Thanks guys. I took some pics -- would love any further feedback on what I should get done (obviously a hem):



    [​IMG]

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