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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. CaptainTohm

    CaptainTohm Well-Known Member

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    Kentucky
    I'd prefer a 3.75" or 4" for my build, but I think either the 3.5" or 4.25" will work just fine. I'll probably ask Aaron (dear Christ, he's going to be sick of me) what his opinion is. I know Clags said he'll only go 3.5" from now on, but I believe I'm notably larger than him.

    Your words of caution are certainly heard though, Caustic.
     
  2. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking 3.75 would be ideal for you, actually. Of course I'd have to see it to be sure.
     
  3. Isolation

    Isolation Well-Known Member

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    I agree. I think 3.5 is a bit on the small side, but not too big, therefore a bit bigger (3.75 or 4) would be good, but I think 4.25 might just cross over slightly. As said though I think I'd usually rather too large than too small.

    On a related note, I have two jackets with same gorge, but one has 3.75 lapels other has 3, and I noticed that the lapel tip looks too high with the 3.75, do you think gorge should be lowered to compensate for larger lapels (since the point will be at a higher point if you don't lower gorge to compensate).
     
  4. CaptainTohm

    CaptainTohm Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Cropped to avoid the shame of a too-short-jacket.

    This Hudson's lapels measure at a tick over 3.75". A little over 3.8" specifically, but that may just be how I was measuring.

    EDIT: Ohhhh that chest bow (partially due to my positioning, but still). I'm so glad I'm going MTM
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  5. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    That looks good. I wouldn't go any larger than that.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. CaptainTohm

    CaptainTohm Well-Known Member

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    Perhaps I'll save the 4.25" lapels for a bold checked jacket. Ugh, I wish KW had one in-between size for the default and large lapels.
     
  7. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    Too many choices can inspire indecision. Unless you know exactly what you want, that is. Then again, as Alan Watts once said, not knowing what you want is the beginning of being free from desire.
     
  8. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Well-Known Member

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    Do you know how KW measures his lapels - (measuring the red line vs the black line) Would have a large effect on how large the 4.25 lapel actually is [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2016
  9. Isolation

    Isolation Well-Known Member

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    Extra note, I personally feel like larger lapels look better on softer fabrics (especially woolens, but maybe stuff with textural interest in general) but look a bit lifeless in worsted fabric, at least that's how I feel about some of my jackets. Maybe just me.
     
  10. patliean1

    patliean1 Well-Known Member

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    +1
     
  11. losrockets

    losrockets Well-Known Member

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    I like this. I don't know how much camera angle is playing into this because some of the other KW pictures don't seem so extreme but the lapel gorge on Cap't Tohm's KW suit is feeling a little bit too high for me... when I feel like I need to look on top of your shoulders to find it I think we've gone too far. I would like it a cm (I'm not talking old school Oxxford, but I like what's shown in Iso's pic). Am I alone on this one? I understand why the high gorge but this may be one of those things like CM is saying where the pendulum has swung too far for me.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  12. CaptainTohm

    CaptainTohm Well-Known Member

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    Pretty sure the trail suit has the highest gorge KW makes

    https://www.kentwang.com/suit-options.php

    That show the standard vs high options. The large lapels only come in the high option, probably for proportional reasons. If I stick with the 3.5", I'll likely opt for the standard height.
     
  13. The Noodles

    The Noodles Well-Known Member

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    Tom,
    Do not go with 4.25" lapels.
    That is WWCD
     
  14. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    The 4.25 lapels only work if you go with the lowest buttoning point possible. Depending on how broad your shoulders are, they are totally fine.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Well-Known Member

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    KW absolutely needs an in between. The 3.5 inch lapel is too narrow and the 4.25 too wide. I tend to go with the 4.25 as the lesser of two evils for a larger guy with broad shoulders.
     
    4 people like this.
  16. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Well-Known Member

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    Feb 22, 2012
    I have noticed two different styles of cuffs on my trousers - one is fully closed around the top, the other is stitched at certain points leaving large parts of the cuff open.

    Is one style more 'correct'?

    I don't think the 'open' style cuff works on my recently tailored linen suit because of the fabric. The cuff opens up too much and flaps around, making it look like I'm wearing a pair of small boats above my shoes.
     
  17. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like 4.25" is right up my alley then.
     
  18. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    Try and see it on yourself first. It's still an extreme width (and often appears so).
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    A few people have commented on my width. If you are comfortable with people commenting on your width, go wide.
     
  20. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    ^^^ Reasons not to go 4.25.
     

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