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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Darkside

    Darkside Well-Known Member

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    I'm open to all suggestions, but I do like the idea of having something with a more synthetic outer layer to ward off moisture. This may be more CM Casual or SWD question, actually. Here's one from Fjallraven that is close.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Camelhair overcoat most of the time. I'll occasionally wear a thick wool chalk stripe charcoal overcoat. I suspect SF wouldn't like this coat much, but it's very warm ^_^

    Camelhair is probably TheOneCoat
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2015
  3. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

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    For wearing over a suit or sport coat, a conventional wool topcoat in either light gray or a charcoal mélange. Both are double breasted. Traditional length (covers the knees).

    Like Claghorn, I also like camel hair; unlike him I do not own one. (Curiously I don’t much like camel hair sport coats, on the other hand. Long story.)

    For casual wear with jeans, corduroy, etc., a ski parka.

    I’m not sure which kind you have in mind.

    Your examples suggest that you might be looking for something a bit outside the mainstream. If you want a parka-style coat (viz., hip-length) that no one you know will have (some folks like stuff that is unique in their social context) it’s worth considering equestrian jackets. I’ve lusted after this one for years, for example:

    [​IMG]


    You’ll find it here (click on ‘Jackets’; this one is the 'BodyGuard'):

    http://www.mountainhorse.co.uk/index.php?p=products

    For a long equestrian coat that waterproof there’s always the stockman, duster, or similar styles, though I’d classify those as streetwear. E.g.:

    http://www.walkabout.com/shop/bw-balranald-long.asp

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Camelhair sport coats are not something I am onboard with. I don't think that there is any contradiction in liking them as an overcoat and disliking them as a SC). Any reason you don't have a CH overcoat, Ac2?
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2015
  5. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

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    None, really. I have owned at least one in the past. Had a Chesterfield style one with a black velvet contrast collar when I was in high school, for example. If it was as nice in actuality as it is in my memory it was very nice indeed. Might have been Brooks Brothers, but I'm not certain.

    Mostly I just don't feel the same urgency to expand my overcoat wardrobe that I feel regarding the expansion and replenishment of my suit wardrobe (or, to a lesser extent, my sport coat wardrobe).

    I've never really thought about the psychology at work here, but my initial hypothesis right now is that I only wear overcoats when I'm outdoors but like most of us I spend most of my life indoors, which I think subconsciously makes outerwear seem less important than suit and jackets which I wear both indoors and out.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2015
  6. Darkside

    Darkside Well-Known Member

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    I dress casually more often than not so I feel a Camel overcoat may not be the best option if I'm wearing mostly denim/chinos and sweaters/OCBDs underneath. I guess I am walking the fine line between Streetwear and CM here.

    I don't think what I am looking for is very unorthodox, however. I want something similar to those ubiquitous Goose Island Parkas....but not from Goose Island.
     
  7. zr3rs

    zr3rs Well-Known Member

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    Somethink like this?

    [​IMG]

    It is in a Loro Piana Storm System matte wool (apologies for the stupid pose, did not find a better one). Can wear it casual or over blazer. Don't know where to get it, this is from Eduard Dressler, and I know that Schneiders Salzburg has (had) similar stuff.
     
    3 people like this.
  8. WhereNext

    WhereNext Well-Known Member

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    Are camel hair/colored overcoats considered more formal? I was thinking their color made them a bit more casual: I tend to think an overcoat in charcoal or dark blue as being on the formal end, like suits.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2015
  9. SeaJen

    SeaJen Well-Known Member

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    Do you mean a snorkel parka like those from Canada Goose? Have you looked at N3-B parkas?
    More casual than that would be Fishtail parka. Real military ones are super-sized, but there are slimmed down variants out there.
    By the way, I consider the Schott peacoat to be casual outerwear...they were designed for wearing on the deck of a ship, after all. I wear mine with jeans more than anything else.

     
  10. Isolation

    Isolation Well-Known Member

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    I think it's that camel is more, idk "luxe"? preppy? Doesn't go well with a more gritty aesthetic as with denim and so on.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. WhereNext

    WhereNext Well-Known Member

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    That's an interesting perspective. In my head, I wouldn't wear it with a jacket/suit and tie, but I would wear it over nice jeans/cords and a jumper (or equivalent). I would agree that if the rest of the look was more "gritty" (worn in jeans, t-shirt, etc.), it wouldn't fit. Dear God: am I preppy?! Say it ain't so....
    The fact that I think of the color as being a bit "bold" (all things considered....at least compared to charcoal or dark navy) lead me to the casual side of things, but not, as you say, to the grittier end of the spectrum (which I think would require more of the type of jackets recently posted).
     
  12. Isolation

    Isolation Well-Known Member

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    Right I think cords and moleskin and flannel are all good, it's one of those "posher" clothes if you get what I mean, whereas a tweed coat, probably with military styling (epaulets, etc) would work better with denim.

    I say preppy with the air quotes, it's something between preppy and posh, as much as I hate that kind of perspective it's kind of how the world sees these things.

    I think the rustic vs city dichotomy is only effective if you're doing coat and tie type stuff, because you definitely have city casual vs city formal, and streetwear or mc casual type things add another dimension to it, though I still think it's useful as a baseline.

    Like a blazer (like bold metallic buttons) is NOT formal, imo. Not anymore, it's flashy, it's not sombre, but it's also very dressed up, so not "casual" or "rustic" in that sense, so it's very different from a denim jacket or knit field jacket or something, which are city casual also, but in a completely different realm. Then you have a tweed jacket which is rustic casual, as opposed to a three piece suit which is rustic but still formal, sort of.

    I think camel is okay with formal, but also okay with country/rustic "formal", but not streetwear/gritty stuff.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2015
  13. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

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  14. WhereNext

    WhereNext Well-Known Member

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    Quoting Ac, but also to
    @Isolation
    Thanks to both for your thoughts. To be clear, I'm not saying I was right in not wearing it with non-suit/jacket/tie things, just that it doesn't appear that way in my head. Whatever that means. For instance, I think it looks great in that picture, but I think I would prefer the coat to be a dark color (for me). There may also be some DB vs. SB things in there somewhere....a "Polo" coat is DB, correct? So would the same coat in SB still be that formal or would it drop it a "level"?
    It may also be that I associate lighter colors with less formal in general, so I may need to adjust that thinking when it comes to overcoats.
    And, Isolation, I was kidding about the preppy thing...definitely a common perception of things, but not really something I worry about.
     
  15. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    I can see a sb camelhair overcoat working well with casual wear (i.e. chinos, sweaters, etc) as well as anything involving a tie. I also think, again SB, it could possibly work with the right jeans provided the jeans are the most casual element of the outfit.
     
  16. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

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    I think that what makes a coat formal, informal, or whatever, is mostly its design, and secondarily its material or color. Camel hair is a material and camel is a color, and I see no principled reason why either couldn’t be used in a casual coat.

    That doesn’t mean, of course, that one can’t offer useful (and true) observations about how these things have been most often used in the past and hence their current cultural associations. But in this case I see nothing intrinsic to either the fabric or the EDIT: cloth color which rules them out for a casual overcoat.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2015
  17. WhereNext

    WhereNext Well-Known Member

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    Very well put. And I think the thing for me is the color, not the fabric itself (which obviously comes in different colors): I see nothing particularly formal or informal about the fabric, it's the color of "camel" that has connotations to me (whether those fit with traditional or current associations, of course, is a whole other matter). And, to get it all in, a DB overcoat strikes me as being slightly more formal, given other factors (fabric, color, length, etc.) being equal. I find it unlikely I will own a DB overcoat, but I could really see that mostly with suits/jacket and tie.
    Thanks all for the thoughts on this.
     
  18. Cleav

    Cleav Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

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    Heh. The Wide-Boy look, no?

    Out of curiosity, Cleav, how common are camel dress overcoats in England? Are there regional differences (say, between London and the midlands)?

    Cheers,

    Ac
     

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