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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

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    Serious answer.

    Depends on, among other things, how much is known about the fabric in question.

    If it’s new but the provenance is known then the reputation of the mill is a good place to start, I would think.

    If it’s not new but the provenance is known then there’s an astonishing amount of advice to be found on the “Unfunded Liabilities” thread.

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/56404/unfunded-liabilities-a-k-a-the-cloth-thread/15285#post_8077530

    One of my top-ten favorite threads, in fact, though I don’t post there.

    Whether or not this is 'objective' I'm not sure.

    I'll be interested to hear others' thoughts on the question.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  2. sprout2

    sprout2 Well-Known Member

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    Whether it withstands a burn test and the fabric melts or not.
    Also, using a loupe to gauge the density of packed fibers. #sleevehead
     
    2 people like this.
  3. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    Given pictures provided, bottom > top. That said, the Formosa might have more three dimensionality IRL than the Suit Supply.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2015
  4. Ds13

    Ds13 Well-Known Member

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    Another wardrobe condensing question for you guys.
    [​IMG]
    1 vs 2, 3 vs 4, and 5 vs 6. Neither is also an option.

    I've been staring at ties for too long and can't decide on these.
     
  5. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    @poorsod

    This is the reverse of your assessment the last time (no snark intended; the navy blazer Jort posted a week ago). The shoulder line was not very clean for some reason on that blazer, so it was inferior in fit.

    As I value your opinion, I'm curious why you like the bottom better this time (and we can all agree, any assessment will be hobbled by being reliant on two poor iPhone pics, so standard caveats apply).
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2015
  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    I don't have any complaints with the E Thomas fabric that the Jort is made from. It's light and has an appealing texture to it. I can't compare it to the Delfino the Formosa is made from since the latter is not in my hands (alas), but I have very positive memories of it. @Mr. Six and @venividivicibj can attest to it's quality. Given limited resources, I think the choice is pretty clear in this case.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. sprout2

    sprout2 Well-Known Member

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    If forced to keep any, #2.
     
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  8. Cao Cao

    Cao Cao Well-Known Member

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    Grab a handfull, hold, release, and see how fast it unwrinkles.

    Also, knowing specs on the fabric does help.
     
  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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    @Ds13

    I don't like either of those red ties. Too shiny

    The patterns on those yellow ties are too busy. And I dislike yellow ties in general

    The brown are the best of the bunch. I prefer the first one slightly because it's a simpler design. The 2nd one seems to have some kind of raised pattern texture that I dislike
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. Ds13

    Ds13 Well-Known Member

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    Agreed on the yellows, I've already removed them into the "get rid of" pile.

    heres a better picture of 5, 6, and 2.
    [​IMG]

    Thanks for the advice everyone!
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2015
  11. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    Now that you mention it, if they are the same pictures, I do recall making the opposite reaction before. The difference in opinion must be then the vagaries of aesthetics. Perhaps I am now in a mood for a cleaner look whereas before I preferred the drape. When the two things are pretty close in desirability, I am not surprised that the pendulum swings back and forth. Maybe that's why you are having a hard time making the decision too.
     
  12. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Well-Known Member

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    I think people mean different things when they say "clean shoulder," so it's hard to say. Also, the photos I've posted have shown Formosa jackets in various fabrics and stages of newness with different postures. I think they mostly look pretty clean with some slight variation, including factoring in that the shoulder construction is extremely light. I guess it's not something that I worry about much, but I welcome when someone says something about it because it's helpful to know when I should give a jacket another look.

    The photos as commentary were largely tongue-in-cheek because I really am wearing the jacket today, so I at least thought it was funny. More seriously, Formosa costs a lot. The Jort looks good. I like the look of the Formosa better, especially for a summer jacket, but the cost differential is a significant factor. Given that you like both--the most important consideration--I'm not sure that there's any reason to get the Formosa.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    1, 6. 3 and 4, no good option. I guess 4
     
  14. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    @poorsod

    [​IMG][​IMG]


    For some reason, the shoulder line is not straight on the one on the left (navy), and I think that must have been one salient factor in your assessing the fit. The color/fabric and the fact that I'm more properly dressed for the jacket might also factor in to the assessment. But I agree about the "leaner" look of the Jort, and there's something about that that appeals to me for a summer jacket. I agree about oscillating between one and the other, when both are similarly satisfactory by any number of criteria. I can understand why people try different tailors, cuts.

    @Mr. Six

    I mean the difference that might seem apparent here in the right shoulder. Of course, posture, breaking the jacket in, fabric can have much to do with it. My vague memory was of a shoulder that sometimes was more like the right, but it might just be a wrinkle in the fabric (cf. left side though). Anyway, the Deflino post was taken with humor of course (I understood your intentions). It looks very good on you. And, you know, I think it would look even better with white (cream) trousers [​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2015
  15. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    @TweedyProf to me the length and buttoning point of the Jort work better for you. Overall, the fit is very clean. Perhaps even too clean for a casual jacket as this is intended to be.
    Disclaimer: contrary to the SF norm, I am not a fan of the Formosa silhouette in general. But this example has a better casual vibe than the Susu. It's just too long and low.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2015
  16. kulata

    kulata Well-Known Member

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    I prefer the formosa for the drape which is more suitable to what I desire in odd jackets. The SuSu fits like a smart and sharp suit jacket but the price differential well....up to you.
     
  17. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    I favor a cleaner, sharper look generally. I like the bit of drape in the Formosa though it isn't a lot. I tried a size up in Formosa and that had a bit more drape but would have required suppressing the waist as well as taking in the sleeves. Actually I went back to NMWA a year later and went down one size in Formosa which was the leaner look I'm used too (above pic). YMMV
     
  18. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Incidentally, here is Murlsquirl in his Jort

    [​IMG]

    Here, the jacket looks to give a more fuller shape in the chest than in my pic, though this is slightly at an angle. A quick look, and you could mistake it for the Delfino
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2015
    7 people like this.
  19. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    Damn that boy sexy!
     
    1 person likes this.

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