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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    Rudlas, I do not do cm's, I am AMURICAN!!!

    that being said, you seemed to be at least my height, 5'10. jacket length really depends on body type, but id guess you would do well with about a 30.5 - 31, with 30 and 31.5 also possibly working.
     
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  2. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Well-Known Member

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    1 person likes this.
  3. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    I put Rudals at 5'10 or 5'11. He was a bit taller than me (178cm).

    Rudals, what exactly are your thoughts on SS mtm? I know that you are a perfectionist; you come from a people who built an exact replica of the archery field in London, complete with announcers announcing in English, just so their archery team could practice for the 2012 Olympics. I do think, regardless of what anyone else here says, that you'll eventually be looking into bespoke. This isn't true for everyone, but I do think this is true for you. You aren't ready yet, though with the right guidance, you would get a result you'd be quite happy with.

    The best way to get yourself ready is to dip your toe in.

    So, what are your thoughts on SS mtm? Think of this suit as your practice field.
     
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  4. Rudals

    Rudals Well-Known Member

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    My thoughts on SS mtm? I really can't say BUT I don't want to blow money on something average. I say that with no disrespect and I am only basing it off of their prices.
    If I am shelling out $3k~$4k on a RTW suit that is ill fitting, why not try bespoke?

    If I walked into Mr. Fields' tomorrow, how bad of a suit do you think I will walk out with 3 months later?
    I doubt that they will be totally clueless as to what to do with me.
    They have the experience of working with people and I think they will ask the right questions to figure out what I want.
    If I realize that I am not ready because I can't do my part in helping them figure out what kind of suit I want, then I'll just walk out and go back to the drawing board.
    I think going in for just a consultation will not hurt a bit.

    What do I want though? It is bespoke and they'll make based on what I say.
    - Wide notch lapels or peak lapels
    - Double vent
    - Low button stance
    - 2 button jacket
    - Top quality fabric but mid Supers (Avoid shine)
    - 100% wool
    - Trim fit

    I am very certain I haven't even scratched the surface with what I specified above but I think it is worth a try at Mr. Fields'.

    And for goodness sake's, give me 1 more inch so I can say that I am 6 ft tall! I measure myself every time I walk out of 7-11 against the height ruler on their doors because that's very accurate.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2014
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  5. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    How much is the SS mtm? You should be concerned with value for dollar when you are talking about "blow[ing] money on something average." I own nothing from SS, but I understand that it's a pretty solid value. Cutting your teeth on SS mtm is more about the experience than it is about the final product (which I am willing to bet dollars to donuts you'll like more than any of your existing stuff). With that under your belt, you'll be a lot more calm and collected when you walk into Field's (and when you walk out three months later, you'll love that suit more than everything else in your wardrobe combined). I've hopped around four tailors trying to find the right one. I had kept one for about 5 jackets and a few suits before the most recent move (I want natural shoulders from now on), but I still got butterflies when picking out the fabric and getting measured for the first time by them.

    Visiting Fields may not be a bad idea. But before you go in, have you looked at any pictures of his work?
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2014
  6. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Well-Known Member

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    I know I am late but this is the reason Doc Holliday is my fave poster from the old regime.
     
  7. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    This and his willingness to wear white shirts.
     
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  8. Rudals

    Rudals Well-Known Member

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    I've not checked out Mr. Fields' but all I know is that his style is English, that is if I read his interview correctly. I am in agreement with you that I should figure out what exactly what I want and why I want it before I pull the trigger and I realize that I cannot get there unless I try on different styles and cuts. I wonder if just trying them on would give me enough ideas. Let me take a visit to Georgetown and hit SS, BB, and then Mr. Fields' after I make an appointment.
     
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  9. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Well-Known Member

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    This thread is going in circles with regards to Rudals. We're back at noodles trying to cop shiny zegnas, and the rest trying to convince him to go MTM/bespoke/anything but zegna. That's the point we were at when I started reading this thread about a week ago.

    Just accept you have to go out there and get some experience, all this endless talking and going in circles won't get you anything you don't know already.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2014
    3 people like this.
  10. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Well-Known Member

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    Beautiful model ... you make it really elegant
     
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  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Noodles and all

    On jacket length. I think he should post a full length pic of himself wearing a jacket front and back and we can weigh in. I'm a bit puzzles by advice on length without a full visual sense of his proportions: height, arm length, torso length etc. A pic taken from waist level. We are being nit picky about everything else.
     
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  12. TM79

    TM79 Well-Known Member

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    Info overload. Take a few days off from all this nonsense, Rudals. Let some stuff sink in.

    Right now everyone is just throwing shit against the wall to see what sticks. There's absolutely no flow to this thread - just random questions/comments at this point.

    Just write down a plan or something and then execute it. I think this wardrobe project has been made infinitely more difficult than it needed to be.
     
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  13. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Well-Known Member

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    KOPPED:

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Agreed with MF and TM79.

    Rudals, you need a vacation from this thread. It's done you a lot of good but I feel like there's a bit of back sliding. Take a vacation, turn off style forum for a week (yes, really). Fight the acquisition urge too, that often leads to bad quick decisions, especially when one is just finding one's sartorial footing. Take that 4K and plan a nice honeymoon. But most importantly look, look, feel, try things on in the meantime. Exercise your eye, not your wallet.
     
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  15. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Well-Known Member

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    I've tried to keep it on track, but it moves too quickly and solid discussions get buried imo. CBD tie discussion was great. Then we had a solid shoe discussion imo. We kind of trailed off after that with any real direction. This thread shines when the solid contributors who know what they are doing are providing loads of feedback to enquiring minds. I don't mind having a little fun in here, but when the solid contributors can't keep up and dispense wisdom as needed the thread begins to lack imo. By the time we got to shirts we were like 3-4 pages on that topic and it was done and back to joking off.

    Also, I felt like I was pestering to get any feedback recently, asking the same questions over and over (tie purge, square purge). I gave up after a bit not wanting to be a nuisance. We could talk about so much more in terms of casual ties, shirts, squares etc.

    That said, this thread isn't about me and I don't want to make it that way. I have already learned a metric ton and if people feel I am in a good spot, then I am happy to back off.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2014
  16. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    no one else comes close.
     
  17. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    Rudals, this is what you are going to do.

    You will PM edmorel and have him make you a Panta custom suit. The cost will be a lot less than Fields and he is intimately familial with what SFers like and he has great taste and will guide you through the process. Do it.

    In the meantime get that Formosa from NMWA as soon as its back in stock in your size.
     
  18. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    I think Clags tried to get some traction with his 25 ties and desert island post. The tie discussion at the beginning was good; shoes as well.

    I come here in part because there are many people here weighing in whose opinion I have enjoyed and learn from. It has remained "exclusive" but not intentionally so. Then it's a nice "salon" space to talk about clothes and more subtle issues regarding them.

    If I felt like I was one of those in charge, I might try to set topics. At best, I can only broach some possibilities. For example, we just mentioned jacket length. I feel like I have the theory, but not necessarily the eye. We could talk about that for a bit (e.g. I really can't help but feel that Vox's pic that JRD posted several pages back was on the short side of an acceptable range). Or we could talk about pairing hanks with very strongly patterned jackets, as in Monkeyface's lovely Belvest in the WAYWRN thread (a version of the good taste thread but for non CBD situations). Or heck, we can debate Foo's first five pics in the GT thread.

    Small topics of interest and which are challenging (and we can, of course, still answer questions give advice to L2BR and JR...Rudals, turn off your browser now![​IMG]).
     
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  19. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    I DO THINK WE CAN MAKE AN EFFORT TO KEEP THE GIFS AND NYUK NYUKS TO A (reasonable) MINIMUM.
    It'll make it easier for folks to follow the content.

    And I do like the idea of thinking about shoes.

    And taking a break from buying would probably be good from Rudals. Though I still think he should visit Georgetown.

    Stitchy, I think that NWMA and Panta is a little soon, as awesome as those recommendations might be.

    As far as shoes go....

    who had what problem?
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2014
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  20. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Well-Known Member

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    Fair enough. FWIW I find the desert island tie collections from each of the council to be quite helpful.

    I'll weigh in on jacket length. I read somewhere that a proper jacket is the same distance from the ground to hem as it is from hem to bottom of collar. To test this I took one of my jackets that I have always felt was a touch long on me. I measured it from the bottom of collar to the bottom of the jacket and it came to 31". I then put the jacket on and measured from the floor to the hem of the jacket and it came to 29". I then took a jacket that I like the length on and tried the same. Sure enough, I got 30" doing it both ways.

    When I go based off of my hands, I can wear the 31" jacket and still curl my fingers under the hem, but it's because I have longer arms. The 30" jacket simply looks much more proportinate to my eye.

    What say the council about this method for determining jacket length?
     
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