1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. The Noodles

    The Noodles Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,379
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2014
    Honestly, I don't like (or feel uncomfortable) with the way knits look. They just look like a freaking seaweed.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,959
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    

    With the flannel PoW, it just doesn't work for me...formality clash I suppose. It definitely works with the PoW with the light blue overcheck.

    I didn't like knits for a long time, Noodles. They aren't for everyone. Definitely not what you need in your business environment.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,885
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    

    Those look great. I'm still searching for the ideal black loafer. I wish carmina made this one in black leather, it looks perfect to me:

    [​IMG]
     
  4. heldentenor

    heldentenor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,381
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2013
    Location:
    The Frozen Tundra
    'Scuse my ignorance, Americans in Noodle-land, but where do you get your Carminas? Direct, through Skoak, some other way?
     
  5. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    19,128
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2007
    

    Ha ha....interesting description :) Well, each to his own. You can live a very happy and stylish life without ever owning a silk knit tie. (although it is the perfect travel tie...never wrinkles). On the flip-side, I have never owned a Grenadine.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    Knit with PoW is fine, especially a flannel like Noodles' suit. Just not a very open, crunchy, seaweedy one. So, a knit that's a bit grenadinish...
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    That's my man! [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,959
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    

    Direct from Carmina, Skoak, Gentlemans Footwear, the Armoury, Leatherfoot, etc.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,959
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    

    So a non knitty knit...:satisfied:
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,670
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2012
    I'm dropping off a few things at the tailor this afternoon. Would it be foolish not to get working button holes on the Formosa? I like them, but they're not exactly cheap at this tailor...
     
  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,106
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    @sebastian mcfox

    Not worth it unless free, IMO. People in the know will be (rightly) more impressed with the cut of the suit; people not in the know won't care.

    BTW: Kent Wang has released pocket squares in 17x17 (they are $65 as opposed to $45 for the smaller ones). I always thought he had some nice designs and there was a little bit of a back and forth with him I think in this thread about the size of squares where many of us pushed for his offering bigger ones.
     
  12. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,106
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    @GusW

    Why not Gus? They are quite nice, especially the big weaves (they are delicate tho, especially with dry hands in winter).
     
  13. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    Dear Noodlers, what do you say: is this gorge too low?

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  14. The Noodles

    The Noodles Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,379
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2014
    Just put the buttons and and forget about making them working button holes. Unless, tailor does it for free.

    Low...it is.
     
  15. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,670
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2012
    Thanks, at $25 a hole I think it's tricky to justify..

    PS haven't forgotten about the Eidos jakcet comparison, will get something up tonight
     
  16. jssdc

    jssdc Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    725
    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2013
    Location:
    New York
    @Elio do you have a different angle? Objectively, yes, much lower than usually preferred. However, in the pic they don't look bad at all, perhaps because their not, or perhaps because the jacket fits so well, or perhaps because of the angle. (Or some combination of the above)
     
  17. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,939
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2013
    I think it's useful on occasion when discussing gorge height to take the wearer’s physique and the desired effect into account. Other factors being equal, for example, a lower gorge can often create the illusion of greater height; coupled with a wide lapel a higher gorge can create the illusion of a broader chest. Etc.

    Also, I think that ideally it needs to be evaluated in the context of the entire jacket’s geometry, not as an independent element.

    IMO, of course.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  18. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    No other pics yet, I just got it in today. It's a bit of an experiment. It's my first foray into DB since the dreaded broad shouldered monstrosities I wore in high school back in the 1980s.
    I dislike the 'modern' DB silhouette as exemplified by those Suit Supply jackets where the gorge sits so high that the lapels peak out above the shoulder line. So when I saw this online I thought it was worth a try, but now I've tried it on I feel it may be a bit too low. Funny thing though: I'm rather short and was always told that short guys benefit from higher gorges, but when I put this one on it made me look like 5cm taller than usual... [​IMG]

    Edit: @Academic2 just posted what I noted: the lower gorge makes me look taller. And I always thought it was the other way around?
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2015
  19. kulata

    kulata Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,834
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    Gorge is not ridiculously low, it's the shoulder padding that bothers me.
     
  20. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,939
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2013
    That's my experience.

    The other crucial factor in the effect, of course, is jacket length, which can't really be judged from the photo. In my opinion there's a bit more flexibility in the length of a DB than a SB, and that can be taken advantage of in the creation of desired optical illusions.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2015
    1 person likes this.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by