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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Well-Known Member

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    I wore the Formosa Minnis houndstooth flannel suit a few times in the Bay Area this past winter when temps were in the low to mid-60's. It was great. Higher temps than that or too much sun even when the temp is cooler and I might have been uncomfortable. I'm not going to get a ton of wear out of it (unless the weather pattern returns to something more normal next winter), but I'm glad to have it.

    Justin--you don't need black shoes if you have oxblood or navy, but you ought to have a pair just in case for all the reasons listed. Plus, if you wore them a few times with a navy or grey suit, you might change your mind.
     
  2. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Former and current military folks (I know that's at least one of you, @Murlsquirl ) and also experts on creasing trousers:

    How do you ensure that you place the crease where it should go when ironing trousers? I line up the seams at the cuff and then fold the trousers carefully, but if I'm off by just a touch when I fold the top, that spoils the seam at the thigh. It might not line up with the previous seam.

    Really a problem for cotton trousers. After wash, the crease isn't as visible and harder to find, but once I iron the seam in, any slight deviation is both visible and becomes part of the memory of the trouser (damn cotton...and yes, I put a crease in them).

    Tricks, suggestions?
     
  3. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    There really is no special trick....other than getting it right the first time. If you can do that, it's a piece of cake from there on out. My method was/is similar to yours with a new pair. If you want to get really accurate, you can measure each side from the seam and make sure they are equal....adjusting as need. It was easy with BDU pants because we had the cargo pocket as a guide.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    I dont know if I would say that everyone "needs" a pair of black shoes, but there are without question certain ensembles with which not only are black shoes optimal, any other color would be poor, and Im not just talking wedding/funeral rigs.

    I think a black calf double monk is one of the best black shoe options. I have 3 pairs of black shoes, punched cap, stitched cap, and DMs. Almost anytime I have a rig that is not ultra formal but I think calls for black shoes, I go for the DMs.

    My 2 cents.
     
    2 people like this.
  5. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    I'm pretty comfortable in a flannel suit through the 60s. Once it hits 70, I'd rather wear a 10-11 ounce worsted. Once it hits 80, I'd rather wear Fresco, linen or some sort of tropical wool. If you are regularly walking 20 minutes or so at a time in your suits, you might want to bring down the temperature range by a few degrees. It was around 65 last Saturday and I chose to walk home (2.5 miles or so) from brunch wearing Minnis flannel trousers and an 18 ounce tweed jacket. Not too bad but was a bit sweaty at the end of the walk (though not as bad as after walking 10 minutes in a suit during the summer).
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. JIMB

    JIMB Well-Known Member

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    I'm curious if people have heuristics for forecasts to layers or types of fabrics. I usually see highs of:
    • above 83: light layer; short sleeves or linen
    • above 73: 1 layer; long sleeves, super light jacket or cardigan
    • above 63: 2 layers; jacket or wool sweater
    • above 53: 3 layers; jacket with sweater
    • above 43... actually doesn't get that low here :p
     
  7. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

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    Black shoes look "right" and "smart" with certain combinations. The pendulum has swung too far towards brown as a universal or default shoe color IMO when black really looks best with some classic combinations. For example white shirt, navy suit, POW tie. Or almost any black POW suit or jacket will look best with a black shoe when paired with a white shirt.

    My favorite black shoes are a calf double monk and a simple punch captoe oxford.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2015
    3 people like this.
  8. Cleav

    Cleav Well-Known Member

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    :nodding:
     
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  9. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    Well said.

    The word "need" of course is an interesting one in the context of clothing, especially on a forum where the average member spends a good bit more time learning about clothes and probably spends a greater percentage of one's budget on clothes. I'd say one needs a pair of black shoes in the sense that you describe, certain outfits (and outfits worn to certain occasions) just do not look nearly as good with anything else. Black isn't as dandified and interesting as other colored shoes and does not take on the same sort of patina as it ages, but it definitely still looks good.with dark suits. Unless one has a really strong aversion to black shoes, it is not like one is truly making a sub-optimal choice so I don't see the downside to owning a pair.

    I think the perfect casual black shoe is probably a single monk, though that may be because there's a certain one from C&J I've had my eyes on for awhile and can't wait to buy and start wearing with blazer and grey trouser looks.
     
  10. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

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    I think wearing a nice black shoe maybe less dandy than brown but can appear more refined and even chic.

    But it is about the entire outfit and not just one element, isn't it?
     
    2 people like this.
  11. justinkapur

    justinkapur Well-Known Member

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    I mean I definitely see both sides of the coin on this discussion. It's hard when most of my accessories are brown as well (ie watch bands, bracelet, glasses, etc). Plus the Enzo Bonafe which were shown earlier are very elegant and I would lean toward that or a super dressy shoe opposed to a casual black shoe. I even emailed Skoak about that shoe but there doesn't seem to be a planned restock unfortunately
     
  12. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    Accessories are a moot point. I wear black shoes and brown glasses/watch strap all the time. I know foo, I know. Again, my 2 cents.
     
  13. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Well-Known Member

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    When you guys say black DM's you mean with a captoe right?
     
  14. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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  15. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    I have one pair of RayBan prescription glasses that I have to wear....I don't care if they don't match either.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. Patrick R

    Patrick R Well-Known Member

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    The anti-black shoe bias here is so odd. Black shoes are a cornerstone of classic menswear. You shouldn't even be allowed to wear another color show until you've dominated the game in black.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2015
    2 people like this.
  17. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    I'd better quilt then... [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  18. Patrick R

    Patrick R Well-Known Member

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    My grandma has some nice patterns to teach you. Get on with yo bad self. ;)
     
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  19. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    I think the anti black shoe hate is nothing more than personal preference, not some kind of SF approved mantra/group think.

    A wrong preference of course, but a preference all the same. Derp.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    I like (casual) black shoes...
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2015

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