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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
     
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  2. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

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  3. heldentenor

    heldentenor Well-Known Member

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    When higher education is a commodity and our students are our "customers," this is what we get.
     
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  4. heldentenor

    heldentenor Well-Known Member

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    No Man Walks Alone has some great, accessible articles on fit and style. Not a ton of detail, but a good starting point on how a jacket, shirt, and trousers should fit.
     
  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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  6. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Well-Known Member

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  7. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Pic please (of the challis).
     
  8. davesmith

    davesmith Well-Known Member

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  9. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    Echoing Greg's sentiment on Tweedy's winter tie assortment.

    A2, agreed. I think there is far more variation when it comes to fit than there is to coherent combinations. Much harder to define. As a quick example, Id say that both O/O's and Nick P's clothes fit just right and yet they are miles apart. And those are just 2 extremes, there is plenty of room in the middle too.

    Its just harder to define within specific set guidelines. The best way to learn is to post pics and get feedback on issues. My 2 cents anyways
     
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  10. Jake Beds

    Jake Beds Member

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    As the process of purchasing my suits for my rotation is well underway, I am starting to look at shoes.

    Some suggestions have already been made earlier in this thread. It seems calfskin captoe oxfords are the workplace staple. As I effectively have NO FORMAL SHOES at the moment, I will be looking to purchase two pairs of high quality staples. Ideally, one black and one brown.

    Loakes has been suggested to me as a starting point.

    Can I wear brown suede shoes in the workplace?

    Thanks,

    Jake
     
  11. davesmith

    davesmith Well-Known Member

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    This. In this picture you can see it's not as bright.

    Are you sure it's madder? I've not seen a madder where the underside is white before.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2015
  12. heldentenor

    heldentenor Well-Known Member

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    Ed refers to it as a "hybrid between ancient madder and wool challis" but made of 100% silk, so it may not be a traditional madder.
     
  13. YRR92

    YRR92 Well-Known Member

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    I think this is the distinction between inkjet printing and block printing (as I learned from l'affair P*ssagio). Certainly, my recent-ish BB "madders" have had a plain tan/gold underside.
     
  14. davesmith

    davesmith Well-Known Member

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    Interesting. Madder "Buff" has a similar colour reverse side, but that's because it's hasn't been dipped in the indigo dye.. Also, I see that these are made in Italy, whereas the only madder I know of is made in the UK.

    Drake's have something coming up in their AW15 collection called a "Dusty Madder", if I remember correctly, that was pretty similar to this tie (had a gold reverse) and was made in Italy as well.

    In this case I wouldn't say it's a sign of the printing method.
     
  15. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Continuing to scour eBay for GNAT friendly nwt/nwot ties from Brooks Brothers:
    (I realize that BB isn't a super cool menswear brand, but I've never owned a tie by them that didn't form an excellent knot. Which is not to say those aren't out there. But it's a brand that shouldn't be dismissed simply because of its real world ubiquity)

    Black wool knit:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Brooks-...283?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d30059a13

    Blue neat:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brooks-Brot...661?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item487c63b5a5

    Burnt orange madder:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BROOKS-...094?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae43150c6

    Not super GNAT-y, but I thought of @EliodA when I saw it:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NWT-BROOKS-...268?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a4e624fec

    Wool-silk burgundy solid:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NWT-Brooks-...663?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c4e6b27bf

    I also found one for myself. Not sharing that link.

    eh, changed my mind. A nice, dusty orange madder:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NWT-BROOKS-...245?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19fdcd89f5
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  16. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Well-Known Member

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    Greetings from drunk rtc about to pass out in Dublin.

    Just wanted to say that i got into the med school i interviewed at km Philly and am fucking psyched!
     
    7 people like this.
  17. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    Fuck yeah! Drink up, mate. But not too much, wouldn't want to end up as a patient at the school you will soon be attending. [​IMG]
     
  18. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Incidentally, Exquisite Trimmings is having a sale on most things. Cappelli ties and Shaya's own branded ties, of which I have several grenadines. I am really fond of them (the midnight stripe grossa is, unfortunately, sold out but definitely worth a look as there are many standard colors in the fina and grossa versions...honestly a steal if discounted).

    I am sorely tempted by several wool ties despite the fact that I am not supposed to buy for a few months a...
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2015
  19. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    Dark brown suede: yes. Though perhaps someone from the UK can shed more light on this. I know black is the safest bet. And Loake (their made in England line) is a good place to start. So is Meermin, but with Loake you'll be able to actually try them on. If I had to get three shoes, starting out, given your location, I'd get two black and one brown. Probably something like these for Loake:

    [​IMG]
    Rothschild, 215 pounds (from the 1880 range)

    [​IMG]
    Holburn, 195 pounds (from the shoemakers range)


    And then there are a bunch of other options. I'd get either a captoe with brogueing or a wingtip with brogueing. Just an example:
    [​IMG]
    Strand, from the 1880 range. 215 pounds


    In the end, I'd probably save suede for a fourth or fifth shoe (for you. For me, it'd probably be a first or second shoe).
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2015
  20. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't get the Rothschild. Patent leather looks a bit cheap. Having seen loake and c&j In the flesh now, I'd say the latter has better looking lasts but the English loakes are very well made.
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2015

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