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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, e

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. Hampton

    Hampton Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
     
  2. luk-cha

    luk-cha Well-Known Member

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    Bespoke Acorn Kudu Norwegian's with a full welt and double sole...............


    .............. yes, seamless too :slayer:
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. NAMOR

    NAMOR Well-Known Member

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    Those were yours? I should have figured that when I saw them posted on the G&G tumblr
     
  4. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    i remember someone here complained about seamless back and how they are less durable...

    saw these pair on the g&g blog. awesome leather. how do they wear? are they similar to the pig skin pair you've got?
     
  5. kolecho

    kolecho Well-Known Member

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    I am pretty sure the pair you are referring to that had issues are seamless wholecuts. There is no seam on those whereas there is a skin stitched seam at the toe of these Norwegians if I am not mistaken.
     
  6. luk-cha

    luk-cha Well-Known Member

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    even with seamless wholecut i have notice an issue but like kolecho said these still have the skin stitch seem at the front just like my vintage cherry ones i first got when G&G was set up back in 2006.

    NAMOR, why would you figure they where mine?? G&G have a lot more client other than just moi :D


    chogall, i have not worn them yet, typhoon has been here the past couple of days so not wear nothing more that rubber flip flops haha, but if you want to see how ludu wear's look for poor sod posts ether here or on thehardcore thread he has some that are worn already, but the leather feel soft and the color is great, pictures are pretty tru to life also
     
  7. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    what does it mean?
     
  8. hendrix

    hendrix Well-Known Member

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    The welt runs 360 degrees rather than terminating at the waist.
     
  9. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    aha,
     
  10. luk-cha

    luk-cha Well-Known Member

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    Yes what he said, please see you Vass book for reference ;)
     
  11. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Well-Known Member

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    I don't like this style usually but the leather used is brilliant.
     
  12. yace

    yace Well-Known Member

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    how come seamless whole cut is less durable? pls enlighted me.
     
  13. Xenon

    Xenon Well-Known Member

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    A seam allows you to take a flat piece of leather and stitch it into a shape the somewhat resembles the shoe, a little bit of stretching and shaping is still required to get proper fit on the last but it should be within the leathers natural stretch limits.

    A seemless wholecut has no seems so you have to stretch the leather tremendously especially around the heel and ankle area, so much so that sometimes it is past the leathers tensile limits or always very close to it.
     
  14. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    he, he. i didn't know it under this term. doesn't look different, anyway.
     
  15. luk-cha

    luk-cha Well-Known Member

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    Dunno if this is the right term, but you will see difference when you see the others in a months time
     
  16. luk-cha

    luk-cha Well-Known Member

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    Dunno if this is the right term, but you will see difference when you see the others in a months time
     
  17. Rodney

    Rodney Active Member

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    Hi,

    I'm thinking of going MTO, but would like to know what color this is.

    [​IMG]

    Can anyone help me out?

    Thanks.
     
  18. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    looking forward to them. the kudu leather is really one on its own. marvelous.
     
  19. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    I have tried this...successfully...and in my somewhat limited experience with this specific style I would have to say that your remarks are not quite correct or...perhaps, better...not quite complete.

    Generally speaking, the problem is too much leather. So that you must have some way of eliminating the excess. Some leathers...veg tans...will form to a shape fairly easily and some (not all) of the excess can be subsumed in the shape. Functionally, this means compressing pipes and wrinkles to the point where they are not visible.

    Other leathers (chrome tans) must be stretched to remove excess. It's the only way. And in such circumstances such leathers may be overworked, it's true. And as a result softer tannages are often used--which in turn don't have the strength that firmer leathers have.

    When I did this, the leather I used was a retan ( a tannage of both chrome and vegetable). I had more problems with excess than I might have if the leather had been full veg, but less than with a chrome. As it was, I never felt that I had over-stretched the leather but the excess was very slightly visible. Since the leather was naturally "textured", it was almost impossible to see this if you were not a shoemaker or had a great deal of experience.

    Anyway, the point is that while the style presents problems, they don't necessarily have to affect either the integrity of the leather nor the customer's satisfaction.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2012
  20. Xenon

    Xenon Well-Known Member

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    First off, for anyone following this part know that DWFII is the expert here.

    This is interesting and good to know. I was not aware that veg tan would as you say "subsume" to this level . Does this cause the leather to thicken substantially in such areas? My train of thought was definitely on chrome tannage and I assumed the throat area and surrounding would have been cut with a much smaller circumferance than last in order to avoid the large excess below.

    When doing this do you wet the veg tan upper completely, not at all...? I have little knowledge of chrome-veg retans, are the characteristics almost always somewhere in between veg and chrome, or do they sometimes behave strictly like one or the other.

    BTW who do you use for veg and veg retan uppers? have you tried Weinheimer's?
     

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