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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, e

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    Actually the term "Goodyear" means...technically and contemporaneously...that the welt and upper are sewn, by machine to a canvas rib that is glued to the insole. Fundamentally, the holding principle, holding the shoe together, is glue. And in a very real sense, nothing is holding the upper to the insole--there is no direct attachment.

    Some people use the term "Goodyear" to refer to any welted construction...but that's not correct.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2012
  2. Gdot

    Gdot Well-Known Member

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    Would it be accurate to state that the gemming is essentially a substitution for the 'feather'?
     
  3. justinkapur

    justinkapur Well-Known Member

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    Guys quick question, if I am between a US 9.5 and US 10 would I opt for a UK9 or UK9.5 in GG? I am trying to hound in on the size so I can order a pair of Oakhams.
     
  4. Sir F

    Sir F Well-Known Member

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    Well I took a half size bigger in G&G. As they are smaller in size. I would take a 9,5 UK
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2012
  5. Sir F

    Sir F Well-Known Member

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    And now good morning! Glad to hear that [​IMG]! And now I have to go to work in my boring .... Tod's shoes, I feel diffrent [​IMG]
     
  6. justinkapur

    justinkapur Well-Known Member

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    Did they feel comfortable or snug when you first wore them and have they stretched significantly? I would hate to buy them a 1/2 size up and they stretch too much making them loose
     
  7. NAMOR

    NAMOR Well-Known Member

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    +1. I would only size down a half size. 10US = 9.5UK. My experience with the TG73 and DG70
     
  8. Sir F

    Sir F Well-Known Member

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    Well they fited me like a glove and after a while they will stretch up a bit that will make them even more comfortable [​IMG] Good luck!
     
  9. jammyo40

    jammyo40 Well-Known Member

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    +2. US 8.5E -> UK 8F (TG73)
     
  10. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    do you guys only factor size or other parameters e.g. high/low instep, narrow heel, wide forefoot etc., etc. and style: derby or oxford/bal?
     
  11. jammyo40

    jammyo40 Well-Known Member

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    At the time I got my first G&Gs, I was a complete shoe noob (still am), so I probably wouldn't have. Thankfully, Dean was there to guide the way when he was in Dallas.
     
  12. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    this makes a biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiig difference. that's why, i always chuckle when people give size advise solely on numbers. each to his own.
     
  13. jammyo40

    jammyo40 Well-Known Member

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    Yeap. Nothing like a master shoemaker to personally observe and measure your feet :D Also, trying on that croc suede deco loafer during the trunk show was pretty sweet too.
     
  14. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    i totally agree, still the majority here thinks brand whoring and groupthink is more effective. this is of course not a g&g thing.

    b&s is full of these wisenheimer attempts...
     
  15. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    Gemming is a substitute for the "holdfast."

    Around the perimeter of the bottom of the last...in the forepart, esp....the last will have a sharp corner defining the bottom. This is known as the "featherline." The "feather" is the extreme edge of the insole...cut to the featherline. Often when the shoe is handwelted and there is sufficient substance, the feather will be "rabbeted."

    Further in, a groove or cut is made in the insole which parallels the feather. This is known as the "channel."

    The space in-between is the "holdfast."

    The stitching goes from the channel through the holdfast, emerging in the feather and then piercing and including the upper and welt in the "inseam." The inseam connects the welt and upper to the insole.

    Something like this:

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Gdot

    Gdot Well-Known Member

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    I find that the lovely leather G&G uses loosens up a good bit with wearing. My personal advise would be to select a size that is quite snug upon initial try on.

    My first pair of G&Gs (the exact Oakhams you mentioned) is 1/2 size larger than my second two pairs and the difference in terms of creasing is dramatically different.

    When I first put on the smaller sized pairs I temporarily paniced because they were so tight - but after just a day of wearing they were PERFECT!
     
  17. Gdot

    Gdot Well-Known Member

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    Thank you VERY much for the detailed explanation.

    Having done some reading, and soliciting the advise of kind experts such as yourself I am FINALLY comfortable that I understand the concepts of the various welting/seaming methods in terms of diagramatic arrangement. As an architect this is important to me, as this is a large part of how my mind works.

    Thank you again.
     
  18. Xenon

    Xenon Well-Known Member

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    Well I consider a black stingray wholecut to be fairly formal and I can't imagine G&G or any bespoke maker using a sewing machine to close a stingray upper. With a sewing machine the needle would deflect off the nodules and the stitches in the lining would be awfully messy looking. By hand you can easily guide the needle in between the bumps (although uneven spacing the thread becomes invisible) but still line up and space the holes in the lining. Slow and tedious as hell though.

    Anyone: If the high end makers are using a michine on stingray any idea how its done?
     
  19. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    I don't do stingray for the very reason you mention (as well as others) but I have seen it done. And it was always done by machine and it was always a mess...if you looked close.

    I would not think that doing it by hand would result in a significantly better appearance excepting the fact that a machine driven needle might break a pearl now and again. Regardless of how it is done, if the machine driven needle deflects because it cannot penetrate the pearl, rest assured that the hand-held needle would not be able to penetrate the pearl either and so would have to enter the stingrray in just about the same position.
     
  20. yarnsforth

    yarnsforth Well-Known Member

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    My experience with G&G has been exactly the same.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2012

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