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Fully canvas, lapel rolls and vents

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by linux_pro, Feb 11, 2005.

  1. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Size. That tie looks like pretty thick silk, with a heavy lining. Prince Albery knots are usually used to make thinnish ties tie bigger knots, so that they look more normal.
     
  2. linux_pro

    linux_pro Well-Known Member

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    Oh, okay. I like my knots really wide and thick. To me, it just looks very swank and cool in a 70's sort of way. That is probably not the right mindset to have when dressing for work, however.
     
  3. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Well-Known Member

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    manton, that was a joke, right?

    mr. kabbaz, that thread is on this forum, somewhere. i saw it a couple of months ago when i was looking for something else. i recall it said something about kiton's chest peices being machine, cut, or sewn, or something like that.
     
  4. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    No. From the notorious "black suit" thread:

    "Take, for instance, the sixth or bottom button on an SB vest. There is a 'usage' rule that it should be left unbuttoned. At the upper end of tailoring (Savile Row, the top NY tailors) there is a 'makers' rule that SB vests should be cut so that the sixth button is impossible to button. Where did these rules originate? Well, unlike the sleeve button rule, there is a fanciful story to go with this one. 'Bertie' the prince of Wales (later Edward VII) was out at his hunting lodge with a bunch of (male) buddies. After a particularly indulgent meal, he leaned back in his chair and unbuttoned the bottom button on his vest to give the expanded Royal Girth a little breathing room. This presented his buddies with a difficult choice. They could: 1) Call the prince on this faux-pas; 2) ignore it; 3) follow suit. #1 was obviously unthinkable. #2 might be interpreted as contradicting the prince, which is frowned upon. So they went with #3, and a 'rule' was born."
     
  5. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Well-Known Member

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    manton, i was aware of that story, or at least a similar one involving royalty, but 'required' is a strong word. nothing in life is required. the fact that bertie's buddies were a pack of yes-men doesn't mean that hundreds of years later everyone should continue to follow that example.

    if the vest is cut to make the bottom button unusable, then you don't have a choice. if the bottom button is usable, you have a choice.

    i understand there are rules, customs, etc... but it is not required to follow them.
     
  6. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Well-Known Member

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    Thanks sanmateo and matadorpoeta. I was looking on AAAC after I failed here ... but I fell asleep waiting for the page to load. Figured I try again after midnight. Works pretty well until about 3am when Alias wakes up and begins hogging the bandwidth.
    Free dozen of collar stays to anyone who locates it.?.

    Oops - which just made me remember: SJ was I supposed to send you collar stays?
     
  7. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    My God, man. Have you missed this thread? http://66.170.193.77/cgi-bin....09;st=0 To summarize: it is "required" according to the "rules". It is not required for staying out of jail, gaining entry into heaven, or maintaining good character.
     
  8. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Well-Known Member

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    Aha. manton
    Wasn't there some pithy little reference over there (somewhere between pages 10 and 40) to faith ... and your denial of any religious connection thereto? In whom is that there, above here, in the paragraph just prior to this paragraph, you are seeking solace?
     
  9. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Well-Known Member

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    i didn't read that thread, just saw the end. i think you misunderstand me. what i'm saying is that when a guy asks aquestion like that, i think the best answer is "the rule is this ( ), but do whatever you want."

    i do think you gave a good response by mentioning the rule though.
     
  10. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Well-Known Member

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    psst ... Matadorpoeta. Go read the thread. Otherwise manton's blood pressure may be in jeopardy.
    Alex
     
  11. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Well-Known Member

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    mr. kabbaz,

    that thread's 47 pages long. i've skimmed through a few of manton's posts and it just seems to me that he's a guy who cares about rules and makes decisions based on them. that's fine, but when a newbie comes on the board and asks a newbie question like, "is it okay to button this or button that", i think we should stress that while there may be rule or custom concerning this, ultimately it is you suit, your image, your life, etc... and as long as you are comfortable and confident with what you're wearing and how you're wearing it, that's all that matters.
     
  12. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Well-Known Member

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    okie dokey. your loss. best thread of the year.
     
  13. linux_pro

    linux_pro Well-Known Member

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    I just wanted to know what the rule was. Thank you Manton very much for the input, as well as Kabbaz.

    How did they come up with the rule about the bottom jacket button? That one seems strange to me. I've just always been kind of curious about that rule.

    The belt and shoe rule is obvious, as is matching metal. But I never have understood the practical reason for leaving one's lower jacket button undone. Is it so the jacket will hang better when you move around?
     
  14. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Well-Known Member

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    No. It's so HMS Bertie can eat a big lunch.

    Edit: Linux_Pro: Not meaning to be flippant. Been a long day. Manton's detailed explanation for this appears elsewhere in, I believe, this thread. But it could be the OTHER thread and I would not wish upon my worst enemy having to locate a piece of information somewhere in there.
    I hear j may be hiring someone from the Library of Congress to compile a Linked Table of Contents for THAT thread. Should take 10-12 months to complete.
     
  15. j

    j Well-Known Member

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    I don't know if that's the purpose for the rule, but that is the effect. A typical SB jacket looks terrible with the bottom button done.
     
  16. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    For the record, I do write that, or something like it, all the time. Do I have to write it every time I post?
     
  17. linux_pro

    linux_pro Well-Known Member

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    I don't think you should always have to state the disclaimer Manton. If someone doesn't realize they have a choice, that is really pathetic, and they're probably too dumb to figure out how to use a computer and get here in the first place.
     
  18. Steve B.

    Steve B. Well-Known Member

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    I second the nomination of Gian DeCaro. Very complimentary article on his shop back in the late '90s in GQ. Also made Bruce Boyer's famous Town & Country bespoke tailors article/directory. Disclaimer: Claims to dress a few MSoft guys including you-know-who. When I asked Gian about ykw's tendency to look like he fell off the turnip truck, he replied that said gentleman's handlers insist on it. Perhaps he spends less time in federal court for monopolistic business practices that way. (Praying my XP doesn't crash as I write this). Â [​IMG]
     
  19. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Well-Known Member

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    To quote a line from Quark, Inc,
     
  20. linux_pro

    linux_pro Well-Known Member

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    Mr. Mystery is of the Lakeside Alumni crowd, all of whom seem to maintain a rather understated or humble appearance. I think it is the local style. Someone told me that Mr. Mystery drove a standard BMW 3-class sedan until just a few years ago, and didn't have any personal security. That changed after the pie incident in Germany. I think he just tries to maintain some image of simple normalcy, although I have no idea. I do know they all seem to work hard at looking plain.
     

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