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FT Article: Britain's Regional Tailors

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Eustace Tilley, Jul 21, 2010.

  1. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Dude in the pic looks like Ed Koch.

    By this standard, DeBoise and Mahon are regional tailors, no?

    As would be the MA&SEBTâ„¢.
     
  2. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    By this standard, DeBoise and Mahon are regional tailors, no?

    I dunno. Don't Mahon and Steed do the majority of their business in London + United States? I imagine tailors like Johnston, Redmayne, Golding etc. derive the majority of their revenues from local customers.
     
  3. George

    George Well-Known Member

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    I dunno. Don't Mahon and Steed do the majority of their business in London + United States? I imagine tailors like Johnston, Redmayne, Golding etc. derive the majority of their revenues from local customers.
    Both, Mahon and Deboise are regional tailors. Deboise is based in Carlisle and Mahon is close by. Carlisle is about a far away from London as you can get in England. I'm surprised there are only that many, I though there were a few more, some have probably retired or have passed away since I last enquired.
     
  4. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

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    Don't Mahon and Steed do the majority of their business in London + United States?

    Even shortly after he opened up the retail shop in Carlisle, 85% of Edwin's business was in America. I'm not sure what the mix is these days given that his MTM business is also good. All I know for sure is that he is busier today than I can recall.

    Note that today, as presaged in the old article ending this post, the location in which Tom and he started Steed at 9 SR is kaput. Edwin sees clients in London now at Chittleborough & Morgan...

    [​IMG]

    ...downstairs at 12 SR. Some of you will know that C&M incorporates Nutters via Joe Morgan (Edwin was at Nutters when Sexton was still there) and that C&M is tied with Castle Tailors in the City. Edwin's brother John is a cutter both out of Castle and C&M.

    It seems to be a small world, Cumbria outposts notwithstanding.


    - B


    An old article:

    Savile Row – just off Shaddongate
    The Cumberland News

    Published Friday, 17 December 2004

    By Stephen Meredith

    THERE’S no running water, no toilet and the front door doesn’t open without a good shove – but for tailor Edwin DeBoise his new shop on Carlisle’s Junction Street is a cut above Savile Row.

    The 42-year-old now prefers to spend his time pondering the latest look on the catwalk while glancing out the front window of the former TV repair shop rather than measuring the inside leg of London’s great and good in his Savile Row shop.

    Just opposite the city’s Post Office depot in a small terraced house bespoke tailors Steed – named after well-dressed Avengers star John Steed – is preparing themselves for an influx of passing trade.

    No chance you may think, but right next door the transformation of one of Carlisle’s best-known landmarks – Shaddon Mill – is being turned into luxury apartments with a six-figure price tag.

    Mr DeBoise, who regularly travels to New York and Chicago to cut suits for the American upper crust, prefers to stay away from his number 9 Savile Row shop if at all possible. He hopes Carlisle’s solicitors and managing directors may just fancy one of his £1,800 three-piece suits or two-piece garments at a respectable £545 as they leave their plush new apartments and head into the city for a day’s work.

    Mr DeBoise purchased the premises, which used to be a tailor’s shop many years ago, with former hairdresser Heather Cowperthwaite. She is launching a line of Steed tailoring for women, with suits priced in the region of £600.

    Mr DeBoise, who in the past has cut suits for the Prince of Wales, has owned his shop on Savile Row for nearly a decade but lived in the village of Southwaite for just as long after opening another branch of Steed in Warwick-on-Eden. His new premises on Junction Street opened last week after he decided a city centre location could be good for business.

    “Around 85 per cent of my business is now in America,” said Mr DeBoise. “I’m firmly based in Cumbria though and plan to go the Savile Row premises once every three weeks. But if I don’t have to I’d much prefer to stay here. It’s more relaxing.

    “There’s a little more to do in our new premises – we’re still without a toilet and running water – but we’re open and settling in well.

    While Mr Deboise meets, greets, designs, measures, cuts and re-measures suits for customers, Ron Hardy, who has worked for Steed for seven years, can be found in an upstairs room in the premises busy making their unique creations come to life.

    But your suit ordered in Cumbria could just as easily be made on Savile Row as Mr DeBoise regularly sends orders to his London base. The majority of female orders will also be made in London.

    For more information on Steed call 01228 599555 or visit www.steed.co.uk
     
  5. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Both, Mahon and Deboise are regional tailors. Deboise is based in Carlisle and Mahon is close by. Carlisle is about a far away from London as you can get in England.

    Yes - I know, but my pt didn't have to do with their physical location, but rather the fact that the vast majority of their customers (their "business" if you will) are based in London or the U.S.
     
  6. sellahi22

    sellahi22 Well-Known Member

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    Even shortly after he opened up the retail shop in Carlisle, 85% of Edwin's business was in America. I'm not sure what the mix is these days given that his MTM business is also good. All I know for sure is that he is busier today than I can recall.

    Has Deboise considered just moving to NYC (setting up in brooklyn maybe)? I think he would dominate the market at his price point.
     
  7. ohm

    ohm Well-Known Member

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    Has Deboise considered just moving to NYC (setting up in brooklyn maybe)? I think he would dominate the market at his price point.

    He would also have to live in NY. [​IMG]
     
  8. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

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    Has Deboise considered just moving to NYC (setting up in brooklyn maybe)? I think he would dominate the market at his price point.

    I think that he's quite happy in Carlisle, although the charms of Brooklyn surely beckon us all.


    - B
     
  9. edmorel

    edmorel Well-Known Member

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    Is Paul Jheeta considered on or off The Row?
     
  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

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    Is Paul Jheeta considered on or off The Row?

    Jheeta is not off The Row. He's...

    [​IMG]


    - B
     
  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    I don't get it. Off the Line? Off the Phone?
     
  12. IndianBoyz

    IndianBoyz Well-Known Member

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  13. The Doctor

    The Doctor Well-Known Member

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    Even shortly after he opened up the retail shop in Carlisle, 85% of Edwin's business was in America. I'm not sure what the mix is these days given that his MTM business is also good. All I know for sure is that he is busier today than I can recall.

    Note that today, as presaged in the old article ending this post, the location in which Tom and he started Steed at 9 SR is kaput. Edwin sees clients in London now at Chittleborough & Morgan...

    [​IMG]

    ...downstairs at 12 SR. Some of you will know that C&M incorporates Nutters via Joe Morgan (Edwin was at Nutters when Sexton was still there) and that C&M is tied with Castle Tailors in the City. Edwin's brother John is a cutter both out of Castle and C&M.

    It seems to be a small world, Cumbria outposts notwithstanding.


    - B


    An old article:

    Savile Row - just off Shaddongate
    The Cumberland News

    Published Friday, 17 December 2004

    By Stephen Meredith

    THERE'S no running water, no toilet and the front door doesn't open without a good shove - but for tailor Edwin DeBoise his new shop on Carlisle's Junction Street is a cut above Savile Row.

    The 42-year-old now prefers to spend his time pondering the latest look on the catwalk while glancing out the front window of the former TV repair shop rather than measuring the inside leg of London's great and good in his Savile Row shop.

    Just opposite the city's Post Office depot in a small terraced house bespoke tailors Steed - named after well-dressed Avengers star John Steed - is preparing themselves for an influx of passing trade.

    No chance you may think, but right next door the transformation of one of Carlisle's best-known landmarks - Shaddon Mill - is being turned into luxury apartments with a six-figure price tag.

    Mr DeBoise, who regularly travels to New York and Chicago to cut suits for the American upper crust, prefers to stay away from his number 9 Savile Row shop if at all possible. He hopes Carlisle's solicitors and managing directors may just fancy one of his £1,800 three-piece suits or two-piece garments at a respectable £545 as they leave their plush new apartments and head into the city for a day's work.

    Mr DeBoise purchased the premises, which used to be a tailor's shop many years ago, with former hairdresser Heather Cowperthwaite. She is launching a line of Steed tailoring for women, with suits priced in the region of £600.

    Mr DeBoise, who in the past has cut suits for the Prince of Wales, has owned his shop on Savile Row for nearly a decade but lived in the village of Southwaite for just as long after opening another branch of Steed in Warwick-on-Eden. His new premises on Junction Street opened last week after he decided a city centre location could be good for business.

    "Around 85 per cent of my business is now in America," said Mr DeBoise. "I'm firmly based in Cumbria though and plan to go the Savile Row premises once every three weeks. But if I don't have to I'd much prefer to stay here. It's more relaxing.

    "There's a little more to do in our new premises - we're still without a toilet and running water - but we're open and settling in well.

    While Mr Deboise meets, greets, designs, measures, cuts and re-measures suits for customers, Ron Hardy, who has worked for Steed for seven years, can be found in an upstairs room in the premises busy making their unique creations come to life.

    But your suit ordered in Cumbria could just as easily be made on Savile Row as Mr DeBoise regularly sends orders to his London base. The majority of female orders will also be made in London.

    For more information on Steed call 01228 599555 or visit www.steed.co.uk



    Just to let you all know that we do have running water and a toilet now.... [​IMG]

    Edwin DeBoise

    Steed Bespoke Tailors

    www.steeds-view.blogspot.com

    www.steed.co.uk
     
  14. George

    George Well-Known Member

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    Just to let you all know that we do have running water and a toilet now.... [​IMG] Edwin DeBoise Steed Bespoke Tailors www.steeds-view.blogspot.com www.steed.co.uk
    ...but its outside in the yard. Do you still keep coal in the bath?
     
  15. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

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    ...but its outside in the yard.

    Do you still keep coal in the bath?


    I try to encourage Deboise to whip his apprentices, the way Despos does with his.

    No go.


    - B
     
  16. edmorel

    edmorel Well-Known Member

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    I don't get it. Off the Line? Off the Phone?

    you're almost there.
     
  17. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

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    you're almost there.

    These kids and their new-fangled mobile phones.

    A whole world of nuance: now lost.


    - B
     
  18. A Y

    A Y Well-Known Member

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    I try to encourage Deboise to whip his apprentices, the way Despos does with his.

    No go.


    But they do feed them kim chee. At least mine does.

    --Andre
     
  19. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

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    But they do feed them kim chee. At least mine does.

    --Andre


    Proprietor-tailors are a cruel, flinty breed.

    - B
     

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