From The Annals Of AngloMania

[ManofKent]

Some beautiful pieces. How come I can't find anything of this quality in the UK?

 

[texas_jack]

I actually have a 1959 navy Kilgour French and Stanbury 3 piece 6-2 DB suit that I should take pics of for this thread.

 

[Holdfast]

I'd forgotten how good this thread is.

A very welcome bump.

 

[Metlin]

Originally Posted by Holdfast

I'd forgotten how good this thread is.

A very welcome bump.

I was searching for examples of Huntsman tailoring to verify something I'd found at a local thrift store that looked very similar. Sadly, while it turned out that the jacket wasn't a Huntsman, I was blown away by this thread.

I wonder how many such threads are hidden away in the annals of SF...

 

[0b5cur1ty]

Originally Posted by Metlin

I was searching for examples of Huntsman tailoring to verify something I'd found at a local thrift store that looked very similar. Sadly, while it turned out that the jacket wasn't a Huntsman, I was blown away by this thread.

I wonder how many such threads are hidden away in the annals of SF...
Thank you for resurrecting this wonderful thread. I can't believe I'd never seen it before. That 1936 Meyer & Mortimer is one of the more beautiful things I've seen in my life. The workmanship...

Does the OP perhaps have any updates for us?

 

[DutchDaedalus]

Chapeau! Great thread, this is what SF should be about.

 

[LeonM]

Originally Posted by 0b5cur1ty

Thank you for resurrecting this wonderful thread. I can't believe I'd never seen it before....

Does the OP perhaps have any updates for us?

+1

Leon

 

[srivats]

Oh wow, how did I miss this thread before? Some amazing tweed jackets here, no doubt.

 

[pejsek]

Originally Posted by texas_jack

I actually have a 1959 navy Kilgour French and Stanbury 3 piece 6-2 DB suit that I should take pics of for this thread.

Yes, you should.

Thank you, everybody, for the kind words. I have been contemplating an update. It seems the suits, perhaps, have not received their fair due.

 

[comrade]

Originally Posted by whnay.

Is your San Fran man Willie Brown?

No, I doubt it. He's reputed to be a Brioni man from Wilkes.

 

[comrade]

Originally Posted by pejsek

An addendum to the rustic tweeds.

Here's another three-button Huntsman. I can easily go an entire year without seeing any second-hand bespoke Huntsman, but this is my second in a month. When it rains and all. Once again, this tweed simply shines, managing to incorporate both glamour and rusticity in a single effortless shrug. The name and date have rather unhelpfully been clipped out (no respect for the curatorial arts!):

This close-up of the breast pocket gives a good sense of the depth of the tweed. Olive and slate blue flecks mingle with the grey herringbone and scarlet windowpane:

The lining, as usual, is a perfect counterpoint. Can't you just see the whole history of England here?

Three buttons on the sleeve:

Switching decades and several generations, this is the oldest jacket I own--a lovely large-pattern tweed from Meyer & Mortimer in 1936. I've even worn this a couple of times and felt no sense of costume. Note how the jacket is fashioned to button low on the bottom button. Nobody seems to do this anymore:

The curved patch breast pocket is beautiful, but so artfully done it almost disappears entirely:

Bellows pocket with button. Another (at this point) recherche touch:

The construction on this jacket is phenomenal. I really doubt anybody working today could match this:

The wonderful old label, wearing its years with dignity:

I found this jacket just last friday, tailored in London by Luciano Campigotto. But don't let the name fool you. This is an exceedingly English confection. The inside label is a bit faded, though I can still make out an address in Lancashire Court off New Bond Street. A google search turns up a current address also in Mayfair in the Burlington Arcade. The cut of the jacket is interesting, something like an oh-so-slightly softened Huntsman--little padding at the shoulders, but with a definitely structured chest piece from which the rest of the jacket cascades. The late Donaldson, Williams & Ward employed a similar cut as a house style. If anybody's looking for a sleeper London tailor Campigotto might be worth checking out:

The choice of cloth here is fantastic. The incorporation of the Prussian/cornflower blue surely rescues the jacket from run-of-the-mill gun check mediocrity:

Hand-sewn circular reinforcement at the pockets:

Very nicely done buttonholes:

This shot of the back gives perhaps the best sense of the pattern and overall effect:

All of the Italian heritage is packed into the label:

Extraordinary Post!
At the risk of being overly direct, where do you thrift?
Also what size are you?

 

[KObalto]

Originally Posted by pejsek

Yes, you should.

Thank you, everybody, for the kind words. I have been contemplating an update. It seems the suits, perhaps, have not received their fair due.

Thank you so much for this and please do update!

 

[voxsartoria]

From time to time, I like to bump my favorite threads, like this one.


- B

 

[I. Gentantithesis]

One enjoys occasionally bumping a barely legal sultry, exotic tart on the underground.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by I. Gentantithesis

One enjoys occasionally bumping a barely legal sultry, exotic tart on the underground.

At other times on the underground, one brings out the umbrella with the poison dart at the tip.


- B