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Fit

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by wmmk, Apr 19, 2009.

  1. ToruOkada

    ToruOkada Well-Known Member

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    This is a fascinating area of inquiry, but I feel it will be hard to systematize.
    are you a robot?
     
  2. PinkPantser

    PinkPantser Well-Known Member

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    * How did you go about figuring out what kind of fits work for you?
    trial and error over time + sewing machine​
    * What specific aspects of a piece can emphasize torso taper, create illusion of narrower hips, elongate legs, etc.?
    As others have mentioned it comes down to body type and your clothes can only do so much; unless you wear a lot of layers. In my case I just have a long body type, in particular my legs - when I played baseball my teammates called me high ass.​
    * Can fit be as simple as wearing clothes that are slim, but not tight?
    I think so. That's what I go for and those are the fits from other members that I like the best. If the button on a shirt pulls more than the tiniest bit i'll pass it over when I'm picking something out in the morning; get smart and eason both wear shirts that are tighter than I would be comfortable with.​
    * What exactly marks the difference between a purposely oversized piece and something that is simply too large?
    I've yet to see a purposefully oversized fit that I liked - it just never looks clean enough.​
    * Why is it that wearing skinny jeans and a more relaxed OCBD looks weird, while Patrik Ervell's whole chunky sweater-with-narrow trousers look works?
    As much as I love most of Ervell's collections the looks you're talking about don't do it for me.​
    We're on the same page on a lot of stuff regarding clothes wmmk and I sympathize with your tendency to overthink it (as robin or chrono would say). That said, for people with sensibilities like yours (and mine) the doubting will go away with time and wear on the clothes. I could be wrong but it seems like you're stuck in this rut of searching for the 'perfect' garments without giving the ones you've got time to grow on you. That's how you really tell when you've found your style and your silhouette - you wear the stuff until it falls apart and then you replace it with something nearly identical. If that process is a frustrating chore to you, something's wrong. To sum it up: [​IMG]
     
  3. tagutcow

    tagutcow Well-Known Member

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    As others have mentioned it comes down to body type and your clothes can only do so much; unless you wear a lot of layers. In my case I just have a long body type, in particular my legs - when I played baseball my teammates called me high ass.​


    Did you go to school on an Indian reservation?
     
  4. wmmk

    wmmk Well-Known Member

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    its about being comfortable in your clothes.
    Well yeah, that's actually something I meant to ask about. (The disparity between looking and being comfortable, that is). For instance, those uniqlo skinny khakis that everyone on WAYWT said looked uncomfortable are in fact my most comfortable pants. I certainly feel better in them than I do in somewhat looser raw denimz, which definitely *look* more relaxed. Then again, knowing that you appear relaxed to others may actually cause a greater feeling of ease.

    But I'm overthinking things again...

    Pantser, I certainly enjoy the process of developing my wardrobe in and of itself. However, I think forums like SF can present a bit of a catch-22 to anyone but those who already have an impeccable, fully-developed sense of style, especially if said person in on a tight budget. For instance, let's say I post a fit in which my pants are deemed too skinny for my style by the forum consensus (for the sake of argument, we'll assume that upon further examination of my fit pics, I realize this is true). Knowing that I only have enough funds to buy one or two new pairs of pants in the year, I want to be damn sure that my next pair of pants fit perfectly. I then make a zillion posts asking about what pants will fit me, creating the perception that I'm overthinking things, and have no "steeze."

    That's interesting about buying the same version of things when they wear out, though. I think I've settled on the fact thing RL Rugby bd's fit me best pre-tailoring, and once I find a good, cheap tailor who I like, I'll feel pretty content in knowing that I'll always be able to get a well-fitting buttondown. I also have a pretty good idea of what kinds of shoes work and don't work for me. If I can get my pants, sweaters, and outerwear in order, I'll hopefully stop freaking out about stuff fitting weirdly and settle into steezedom.

    By the way, I'm learning how to sew. It's a little harder than I'd expected it to be...
     
  5. seraphn

    seraphn Active Member

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    Here on SF, there's a lot about fit being the most important aspect of dressing well. However, I'd venture that a lot of WAYWT posters (myself certainly included), have not entirely mastered the art of putting on clothes in a way that flatters their respective builds.

    Some bodies are obviously easy than others to make look good in clothes. Superskinny guys such as Lel and Vashin seem to always look good, as do taller (but still very slim) ones like chronoaug and PinkPanster and insanely ripped ones like Eason.

    Still, I get the sense that these guys all have a very good sense of what works for them, fit-wise. I'm interested in whether how they developed such great senses of fit, and whether it came gradually and naturally from trying different types of fits, or from one instance of analyzing their body types and figuring out tangible reasons that certain pieces did or did not work.

    Even beyond typically good-looking guys, I find that some people just have an amazing eye for fit. For instance, F2B was quite awkwardly-proportioned, yet his clothes were very flattering, in an odd way. Even when JFK had a bit of a gut, his clothes fit him impeccably. Some of the workwear dudes also look good despite not being stick-thin.

    So, I guess I have a lot of questions:
    • How did you go about figuring out what kind of fits work for you?
    • What specific aspects of a piece can emphasize torso taper, create illusion of narrower hips, elongate legs, etc.?
    • Can fit be as simple as wearing clothes that are slim, but not tight?
    • What exactly marks the difference between a purposely oversized piece and something that is simply too large?
    • Why is it that wearing skinny jeans and a more relaxed OCBD looks weird, while Patrik Ervell's whole chunky sweater-with-narrow trousers look works?
    • How does fabric/material affect fit in terms or drape?

    I look forward to hearing all of your opinions; sorry for my usual wordiness.


    I've got a pretty awkward build myself. Short, slim, with short torso. So I'll wear slimmer jeans/pants to give my legs more length. I never wear boot cuts anymore because they make my legs look shorter than they are. T-shirts that are slightly longer tend to extend my torso, which is a good thing I guess, since all of the popular branded t-shirts tend to be a bit long for me, even in xs.

    However, I've come to grips with the fact that there are some things I will never be able to pull off because of my build. No trenchcoats, or long coats in general [​IMG] . No bootcuts, or looser cuts. No thick sweaters, even with skinny trousers. And I haven't been able to find a leather jacket that fits me right. I should probably also stay away from suit jackets with padded shoulders.

    But in the end, I guess it's how comfortable you are wearing a particular item that will decide things, and how much you internalize other people's comments about how it fits.
     
  6. PinkPantser

    PinkPantser Well-Known Member

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    Pantser, I certainly enjoy the process of developing my wardrobe in and of itself.

    Good to hear. You do have a lot of posts expressing frustration (or maybe those are just the ones that I remember) so its good to know that's not your general outlook.
     
  7. Vashin

    Vashin Well-Known Member

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    I think I've just lurked for a long time.
     
  8. Superb0bo

    Superb0bo Well-Known Member

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    For me its been a bit of a trial and error process aswell, I had slimmer jeans, and slimmer shirts a couple of years ago, but realised that comfort was too important, and wearing higher rise, loose pants with shirt that doesnt restrict movement is a good way to feel more comfortable and relaxed (which I need, since Im otherwise am a pretty stiff academic kind of guy). However, I am concious of how my stuff fits, but I think my range of "ok" is bigger than alot of people here. I can wear a shirt that obviously fits big if the fabric and details make up for it. However, I think my body type is pretty easy to dress aswell, since im tall, slim hips and wide shoulders, but obviously I could dress more "flattering" if I felt it was important. Who knows, If im single again, perhaps ill dress in slim jeans and impeccable eason-sexy shirts... who the hell is mr tighty pants? [​IMG]
     
  9. Black Cherry

    Black Cherry Well-Known Member

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    Michigan
    ^ Hey there, sexy pants.

    It's been a lot of trial and error for me as well. And still is. Here's a handy before and after comparison:

    [​IMG]

    Before is my first WAYW pic from August 07 and rather cringeworthy, after is from earlier this month. I've come a long way, but I've got a long way still to go!
     
  10. aqhong

    aqhong Well-Known Member

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    ^ I don't find the "before" cringeworthy at all. Aside from the cuffs and laces, I actually like it [​IMG]
     
  11. Nuff said

    Nuff said Well-Known Member

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    * How did you go about figuring out what kind of fits work for you?

    Fit takes a while to get a handle on. It can be time consuming and expensive to work it out especially if your weight isn't reasonably static. As other posters have mentioned your personal style of clothing has a lot to do with it - generally classic preppy stuff looks good when fitted slim, workwear often looks better loose.

    I wear a lot of classic preppy stuff and like to wear it fairly slim fitted. Getting the balance right was a hit an miss affair. When I was younger I tended to wear clothes too loose. I also went through a phase of wearing my clothes too tight.

    For preppy clothing my advice would be to figure out how tight you can wear stuff whilst still having enough freedom of movement to be comfortable. Then pull it back a bit – you need to have spare material to allow for weight gain, fabric shrinkage and poor judgement. This will unfortunately cost a bit of money in overcooked tailoring and clothing that ends up being too small to be wearable. Doing it on a tight budget isn’t easy.


    * What specific aspects of a piece can emphasize torso taper, create illusion of narrower hips, elongate legs, etc.?

    Firstly you need to get to know your body type and figure out the parts of it that are less than ideal. It helps to wear clothes that avoid drawing attention to these areas.

    For instance I’ve got an ectomorphic body type. I’m 6ft 1”, 76 kilos. I’ve got wide hips relative to my narrow shoulders and a long neck.

    To de-emphasise my long neck I generally wear a collar. In button ups I go for a two inch collar if available. Most of my tees are polo shirts. If I do wear a regular tee I wear a high crew neck (mostly with a blouson type jacket over it). I don’t wear tank tops or low cut tee shirts ever.

    For wide hips and narrow shoulders – I prefer jeans and trousers to be well fitted at the hips and slim through the thighs and leg. I avoid hip flare at all costs. I try to stear clear of back pocket flaps and back pocket stitching. I don’t go skinny though.
    In shirts I avoid darts. Front darts are totally out. Minimal back darting is passable. BoO is about the limit. For slim guys I think taking in the side seams looks more masculine. Shirts need to be tailored at the waist but not overly so. Too much torso taper on slim guys with wide hips tends to look effeminate especially from the rear.
     
  12. whodini

    whodini Well-Known Member

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    - when I played baseball my teammates called me high ass.[/indent]
    I heard they also called you tight end yet you were never on the football team.
     
  13. JoelF

    JoelF Well-Known Member

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    ^ Hey there, sexy pants.

    It's been a lot of trial and error for me as well. And still is. Here's a handy before and after comparison:

    http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/373...reafternww.jpg

    Before is my first WAYW pic from August 07 and rather cringeworthy, after is from earlier this month. I've come a long way, but I've got a long way still to go!


    Cringeworthy? Nah. Before really looks better than After, like those hair replacement ads.
     
  14. aqhong

    aqhong Well-Known Member

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    Before really looks better than After
    Actually agree, and originally posted this, but chickened out. I may just be biased against those boots, though [​IMG]
     
  15. Eason

    Eason Well-Known Member

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    I'm personally curious to hear more answers on this one. I've often wondered the same thing. I look at guys like yfyf, PinkPanster, Lel, Vashin, Chrono, Getsmart, Easton, etc and wonder if their stuf goes beyond "fitted" and is actually just too tight. I definately think in some cases it's pushing the bounds. Getsmarts stuff just looks like it's going to be uncomfortable to wear, as with several other posters.

    I've started sizing down and tailoring almost all my clothes over the past year and a lot of my friends and family have said everything looks too tight. I still think it's actually just slim/fitted, but I'm constantly putting on older clothes that I thought were slim and finding them loose and baggy. Maybe it's all in the head?

    anyone else find even the 28's and xs's at mainstream retailors have started to feel too big and baggy since joining S.F. and sizing down_and/or shrinking stuff?


    It's all part of a process. Once you get used wearing to something that's x amount tight, anything less than that feels too loose- and from there it's smooth sailing into the land of tight shiet.

    * How did you go about figuring out what kind of fits work for you? - Look in a mirror, observe your silhouette. If your clothes don't make your body look better, then why are you wearing them? Might as well just put on a moo-moo or a snuggle and fuse with your couch.
    * What specific aspects of a piece can emphasize torso taper, create illusion of narrower hips, elongate legs, etc.? - Slightly structured shoulders on a button-up shirt, get it tailored tighter around the stomach but have a little more space around the chest.
    * Can fit be as simple as wearing clothes that are slim, but not tight? - Unless you want to wear clothes that are tight. Pants don't need to be tight, but I think shirts are so horribly blousey these days that even "slim" isn't slim enough if you tuck them in (and you almost always should IMO)
    * What exactly marks the difference between a purposely oversized piece and something that is simply too large? - That's designer BS territory, I won't even pretend to answer that truthfully.
    * Why is it that wearing skinny jeans and a more relaxed OCBD looks weird, while Patrik Ervell's whole chunky sweater-with-narrow trousers look works? - Easy answer: An OCBD is totally not like a chunky knit.
    * How does fabric/material affect fit in terms or drape? - See above for an example. Good, thick fabrics will make the difference between too tight, and just right.
     
  16. XenoX101

    XenoX101 Well-Known Member

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    I think it has a lot to do with understanding why you look a certain way in clothes and being as picky as you possibly can. I'll take myself for example: I know I have a bit of a belly despite being quite skinny, it's obvious when I wear skin-tight clothing and tailor my own clothes. My top half is a tad smaller than my bottom half so I find that wearing shirts tucked into my natural waist looks odd, so I let my pants/jeans sit ever so slightly lower than my waist.

      • How did you go about figuring out what kind of fits work for you?
    • Looking at myself a lot in the mirror, being critical about myself and keeping an eye out for problem spots in the fit (compare to shirts that fit me better in these areas)
      • What specific aspects of a piece can emphasize torso taper, create illusion of narrower hips, elongate legs, etc.?
    • Shirts with darts/panels and considerable drops in width from chest to belly will make your torso look tapered, because of my 'belly' I notice this a lot and aim for these types of fits. High rise/high waist and single colour throughout legs will always elongate them. My proportionately large hips look small under a purposely extra long baggy t-shirt.
      • Can fit be as simple as wearing clothes that are slim, but not tight?
    • I don't think so, there are too many examples of excellent fitting clothes that don't fit slim at all, but do fit the person (see next question for exp.)
      • What exactly marks the difference between a purposely oversized piece and something that is simply too large?
    • Clothes that are purposely oversized will usually be made of a material that looks flattering when draping, the clothes will also usually fit properly in one or more areas such as shoulders, length, sleeve length and collar (Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2009 is a good example of purposely oversized clothing).
      • Why is it that wearing skinny jeans and a more relaxed OCBD looks weird, while Patrik Ervell's whole chunky sweater-with-narrow trousers look works?
    • I'm not sure about the first part of this question, a photo would help, though I would guess it'd have something to do with a relaxed OCBD being classical and skinny jeans being somewhat modern. Sweaters are commonly oversized because they don't crinkle and crease in unflattering ways, they also serve the purpose of keeping the wearer warm even moreso when oversized.
      • How does fabric/material affect fit in terms or drape?
    • Massive difference, many dress shirt fabrics will crease in unflattering ways at any sign of a bad fit rather than draping. thick fabrics tend to hold their own and 'hover' rather than fall/drape along your body. As a general rule lighter fabrics drape better (knitwear is a big exception).
     
  17. PinkPantser

    PinkPantser Well-Known Member

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    I heard they also called you tight end yet you were never on the football team.

    You're right, I wasn't on the football team. Though, I was pretty well known as the wide receiver. Never did understand that one.
     
  18. hamish5178

    hamish5178 Well-Known Member

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  19. bluemagic

    bluemagic Well-Known Member

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    After thinking about it, I think it's all about what looks good to you in the mirror. There's too many factors to understand it in a systematic rather than intuitive way. I think the issue with trying to set up rules is that the rules may miss some details that make items work or not work, though the items may satisfy all the rules. I know that with color, I've certainly moved past the crude Carole Jackson rules, although they were useful to me in the beginning.
     
  20. ToruOkada

    ToruOkada Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, but: breakfastheatre
    breakfasteatre has some good fits too.
     

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