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First Double Breasted Suit, Need Help

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by BoomDiggs, Sep 13, 2009.

  1. BoomDiggs

    BoomDiggs Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Apr 5, 2009
    I just passed the bar and I am looking to expand my suit collection fairly quickly. I don't have any double breasted suits, so I am thinking that one of my next two new suits will be a DB. However, I don't really know much about them so I was wondering if you could help me out.

    1) DB is wholly appropriate for a lawyer, right? If it matters, I will be working on the transactional side of things.

    2) I wear a 50XL, a DB will still work for someone who is 6'8" and 265lbs, correct?

    3) Should a DB fit closer to the body than a SB?

    4) I own a navy suit but not a gray flannel. Would one still suggest I go with the classic navy for the first suit?

    5) Single or Double Vent?

    6) Number of buttons?

    All I know for sure is that I want peak lapels. Are there other important factors that I am not taking into account?

    Thanks
     
  2. kuwisdelu

    kuwisdelu Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    542
    Joined:
    May 17, 2009
    I just passed the bar and I am looking to expand my suit collection fairly quickly. I don't have any double breasted suits, so I am thinking that one of my next two new suits will be a DB. However, I don't really know much about them so I was wondering if you could help me out. 1) DB is wholly appropriate for a lawyer, right? If it matters, I will be working on the transactional side of things. 2) I wear a 50XL, a DB will still work for someone who is 6'8" and 265lbs, correct? 3) Should a DB fit closer to the body than a SB? 4) I own a navy suit but not a gray flannel. Would one still suggest I go with the classic navy for the first suit? 5) Single or Double Vent? 6) Number of buttons? All I know for sure is that I want peak lapels. Are there other important factors that I am not taking into account? Thanks
    1. I wouldn't know enough about the law profession to answer this. 2. DB's work for everyone and every body type. Don't let anyone convince you otherwise. 3. Most definitely. DB's must fit much more perfectly than a SB, as any flaws in tailoring or fit will stand out a lot more with a DB. A DB coat is the time to be completely OCD about fit. 4. Gray flannel would be great for a first DB suit, IMO. 5. Either double vents or unvented. Single vents look absolutely awful on DB coats, IMO. 6. For your size, I'd go with a classic 6x2. As for peak lapels--well, double-breasted coats with notch lapels simply shouldn't exist. Peak is a must. One other thing, in addition to the number of buttons, is the position of the buttons. For your physique, I'd suggest buttons that are a bit farther apart horizontally to make sure the button positions are proportional to your body. On a large guy, if the buttons are too close together (horizontally), it will just look very off. Same for a small guy with buttons that are too widely spaced.
     
  3. Golf_Nerd

    Golf_Nerd Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,200
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    Jul 30, 2007
    Location:
    Stuttgart, germany
    I just passed the bar and I am looking to expand my suit collection fairly quickly. I don't have any double breasted suits, so I am thinking that one of my next two new suits will be a DB. However, I don't really know much about them so I was wondering if you could help me out.

    1) DB is wholly appropriate for a lawyer, right? If it matters, I will be working on the transactional side of things.

    2) I wear a 50XL, a DB will still work for someone who is 6'8" and 265lbs, correct?

    3) Should a DB fit closer to the body than a SB?

    4) I own a navy suit but not a gray flannel. Would one still suggest I go with the classic navy for the first suit?

    5) Single or Double Vent?

    6) Number of buttons?

    All I know for sure is that I want peak lapels. Are there other important factors that I am not taking into account?

    Thanks


    1) don't know

    2) don't know

    3) no, it should fit, that's it

    4) dark grey works, too

    5) double

    6) six
     
  4. luftvier

    luftvier Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,919
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    Jun 7, 2008
    Location:
    Filthydelphia
    I just passed the bar and I am looking to expand my suit collection fairly quickly. I don't have any double breasted suits, so I am thinking that one of my next two new suits will be a DB. However, I don't really know much about them so I was wondering if you could help me out.

    1) DB is wholly appropriate for a lawyer, right? If it matters, I will be working on the transactional side of things.


    Yes.

    Either navy windowpane or a grey flannel would look great.

    I prefer the double vent on a DB suit.

    6x2 is the best arrangement for buttons.
     
  5. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,773
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    Oct 6, 2004
    For your height, don't leap into a windowpane design. It might look like someone's stamp collection. Navy or dark grey solid would work (flannel is fine, worsted especially so if it's going to see some use), or try chalk stripes widely spaced if you're going to wear during the day only and if it suits your own style.
     
  6. needshoehelp

    needshoehelp Well-Known Member

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    United States
    While I'd say DB's are appropriate for lawyers in general, if you're a young lawyer just starting out I'd advise against it, if only because nobody wears them and you might not want to stand out too much. Especially if you're working for a firm and all. Once you get settled in after a few years and have a little seniority, then I'd go for it.
     
  7. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

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    Tombstone
    While I'd say DB's are appropriate for lawyers in general, if you're a young lawyer just starting out I'd advise against it, if only because nobody wears them and you might not want to stand out too much. Especially if you're working for a firm and all. Once you get settled in after a few years and have a little seniority, then I'd go for it.

    This is good advice. If you don't know your colleagues, I'd at least get the lay of the land before breaking out the DBs -- especially if you're a younger guy who went straight from undergrad to law school.
     
  8. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Well-Known Member

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    Mar 15, 2006
    2. Bespoke double-breasted can work on virtually anyone, but he didn't say it would be bespoke. Nor has he provided pictures to see how easily the type might flatter him.
    5. Vents also calls for pictures.

    Fabric weight is another important consideration. All else being equal, double-breasted probably will feel warmer than single-breasted. In general, DB is not advisable for a new attorney, but at 6'8", unless it doesn't go well with his body type, probably few people would give it much attention.
     
  9. mimile

    mimile Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Halifax, Canada
     
  10. CYstyle

    CYstyle Well-Known Member

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    Jul 18, 2009
    i think with your statue, a DB suit wouldn't stand out even if you're a new lawyer, however you might want some other lawyers input.

    Agree with the general consensus, make sure if you get RTW to get a good tailor and make sure it fits perfectly, otherwise I would go bespoke or MTM, it's easy to ruin a DB.

    it's not going to fit more closely persay but it'll have an overall different feel than SB, since your going to be keeping it buttoned, and it wraps around/overlaps.

    I would go with double vents

    6x2 is classic
    I also am a fan of a 6x1 like http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/2/4...6516339_tp.jpg
    but thats just me.
     
  11. bowtielover

    bowtielover Well-Known Member

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    Cincinnati OH
    DB is usualy a boxier fit and not very figure flattering and is appropiate for a lawyer, if your a lawyer of the 80's or 90's. DB suit just arent in style these days, for your size it would work out but your better off with a two or three button SB.
     
  12. DGP

    DGP Well-Known Member

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    2,100
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    Mar 12, 2006
    Only other decisions you have to make are flat front or pleated trousers (I'd always go flat), two piece or three (3 piece feels like 80s banker to me) and whether you go with one lapel buttonhole or one on each side.

    I think in contrast to what others have said that the DB suit can be very modern, if it's cut with a lot of waist suppression and short body. Not sure that either is appropriate for a young lawyer, but I have no knowledge of that profession. I just know that people at my work dress a certain way but I don't really care because I'd rather follow my own stylistic instincts anyways (as a young lawyer you may have a very different perspective on this, which is quite understandable).
     
  13. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Well-Known Member

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    DB is usualy a boxier fit and not very figure flattering and is appropiate for a lawyer, if your a lawyer of the 80's or 90's. DB suit just arent in style these days, for your size it would work out but your better off with a two or three button SB.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. DCPHIL

    DCPHIL Well-Known Member

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    May have already been noted in posts, but check out this month's American or British version of GQ. Decent article focused on a more modern look. While pricey, Ford and Brioni have some pretty neat DB jackets and suits on the mkt these days.
     
  15. kuwisdelu

    kuwisdelu Well-Known Member

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    May 17, 2009
    DB is usualy a boxier fit and not very figure flattering and is appropiate for a lawyer, if your a lawyer of the 80's or 90's. DB suit just arent in style these days, for your size it would work out but your better off with a two or three button SB.
    You, good sir, are insane. Either that, or you've only seen terrible double-breasteds.
     
  16. KObalto

    KObalto Well-Known Member

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    Despite bowtielover's obsession with what is in fashion, DBs never went out of style, and are more prevalent than they have been in years. I'm a lawyer and I wear them and see more and more other lawyers doing so as well.
     
  17. KObalto

    KObalto Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    DB is usualy a boxier fit and not very figure flattering and is appropiate for a lawyer, if your a lawyer of the 80's or 90's. DB suit just arent in style these days, for your size it would work out but your better off with a two or three button SB.

    You need to check out the WAYWRN thread. A properly fitting DB is not boxy and has a beautiful taper.
     
  18. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Well-Known Member

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    Irvine
    1) DB is wholly appropriate for a lawyer, right? If it matters, I will be working on the transactional side of things.

    that is fine

    2) I wear a 50XL, a DB will still work for someone who is 6'8" and 265lbs, correct?

    well, it will make you very standoutish. a db suit is a very commandeering look on some individuals. i am a muted average joe in a crowd so it helps for me to wear a db suit. not for you if you are 6'8, just go for a regular sb suit.

    3) Should a DB fit closer to the body than a SB?

    no, just the same.

    4) I own a navy suit but not a gray flannel. Would one still suggest I go with the classic navy for the first suit?

    go for the grey flannel if you have to get a db. that would be nice.
    a nice donegal flannel would be exquisite


    5) Single or Double Vent?

    double vent always
    6) Number of buttons?

    go for the standard 6 button. button at the 2nd button (6x2).
     
  19. bowtielover

    bowtielover Well-Known Member

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    You need to check out the WAYWRN thread. A properly fitting DB is not boxy and has a beautiful taper.

    Yes it can be well fitted, but that dosen't change the fact that it's a dated style.
     
  20. TheWraith

    TheWraith Well-Known Member

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    Quite the contrary, it's as in fashion as ever. And it's hardly a dated style. I'd actually call it timeless myself.
     

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