First Basted Fitting Pics - Navy Jacket - Richard Lim Tailor

[johnnyhooks]

Originally Posted by coolal

What do you guys think about moving the gorge down about 1/2 - 1 inch? That'll also push the button stance down the same amount.

I certainly think the button stance needs to be adjusted just a tad. However, I'm trying to weigh adjusting the gorge, lowering the button stance, and / or shortening the jacket by 1/2". Probably some combination of the three...

While I am not one of the elite I have been spending enough time looking at jackets to develop an eye for good fits.

I agree on the gorge. It seems to high in general, but I cannot comment on how far down it should go. 1 inch almost seems more appropriate than 1/3" from the picture. Stance needs to be lowered as well, as you stated.

Other than that the fit looks great.

 

[TheTukker]

Originally Posted by PaoloM

A raw try-on is what you forum people refer to as "basted shell fittings"

Not really my point, but whatever.

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by Lonneker

I thought people had told you before to stop making a fool of yourself, but it seems you just can't get enough of it. Not sure who you think you are to call this a waste of time; seems to me that that's up to the tailor.

+1

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by PaoloM

It's a raw try on for god sake. Also I have never seen such a waste of time as this. They could have gone much further with making the jacket, cutting the pockets, and even sewing the darts and some of the other seams. Most raw try-on's look like this:

No.

If any adjustments need to be made at the underarm seams, the darts or the wedge, then they are stuck unsewing the pocket and remaking it, which is a MAJOR PITA. Factory try-ons, like the ones you posted, are actually a pain when the pockets have been already made and we try to avoid that.

As for the actual fitting, did he really do the fitting without the collar attached?

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by PaoloM

It's a raw try on for god sake. Also I have never seen such a waste of time as this. They could have gone much further with making the jacket, cutting the pockets, and even sewing the darts and some of the other seams. Most raw try-on's look like this:
Your pictures are factory, mass produced try-ons, made all by machine and are not in the same league. Pockets are machine made. Different systems with different results. Apples and oranges.

 

[Fishball]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

No.

If any adjustments need to be made at the underarm seams, the darts or the wedge, then they are stuck unsewing the pocket and remaking it, which is a MAJOR PITA. Factory try-ons, like the ones you posted, are actually a pain when the pockets have been already made and we try to avoid that.

As for the actual fitting, did he really do the fitting without the collar attached?

Totally agree with you.
the normal basted fitting of HK tailor will look like the one show at Yao's thread, with collar attached.

 

[coolal]

Originally Posted by johnnyhooks

While I am not one of the elite I have been spending enough time looking at jackets to develop an eye for good fits.

I agree on the gorge. It seems to high in general, but I cannot comment on how far down it should go. 1 inch almost seems more appropriate than 1/3" from the picture. Stance needs to be lowered as well, as you stated.

Other than that the fit looks great.

Just got back from Richard's shop. The gorge will end up being about 1" from the shoulder line, and the button stance was dropped about 1" as well. Basically right at my navel now. There is also a tad more belly to the lapel now, to accommodate the lowered stance.

Originally Posted by jefferyd

No.

If any adjustments need to be made at the underarm seams, the darts or the wedge, then they are stuck unsewing the pocket and remaking it, which is a MAJOR PITA. Factory try-ons, like the ones you posted, are actually a pain when the pockets have been already made and we try to avoid that.

As for the actual fitting, did he really do the fitting without the collar attached?

On my first order the collar was already attached when I had the basted fitting. However, on the last two, the collar was not part of the first fitting. Perhaps this has something to do with using a non-standard peak / notch design?

 

[ter1413]

Originally Posted by Despos

Your pictures are factory, mass produced try-ons, made all by machine and are not in the same league. Pockets are machine made. Different systems with different results. Apples and oranges.

+1

 

[coolal]

Originally Posted by Lonneker

I can see what you mean with the lining, but would probably still go with 1/2.



+1; hard to tell without full pic, but looks fine.



+1

BTW, this was resolved today as well.

The chest will be 1/2 - 3/4 canvassed and then self lined with the Brisa cloth. I also opted to switch out the cotton / silk shirting for Bemberg lining. It'll be used to pipe the chest, tape the seams in back, and to line the sleeves.

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by PaoloM

It's a raw try on for god sake. Also I have never seen such a waste of time as this. They could have gone much further with making the jacket, cutting the pockets, and even sewing the darts and some of the other seams. Most raw try-on's look like this:

Originally Posted by Lonneker

I thought people had told you before to stop making a fool of yourself, but it seems you just can't get enough of it. Not sure who you think you are to call this a waste of time; seems to me that that's up to the tailor. Also, not even sure what a "raw try-on" is, but I wonder where you get the authority from to state what most of them look like.

Originally Posted by jefferyd

No.

If any adjustments need to be made at the underarm seams, the darts or the wedge, then they are stuck unsewing the pocket and remaking it, which is a MAJOR PITA. Factory try-ons, like the ones you posted, are actually a pain when the pockets have been already made and we try to avoid that.

Originally Posted by Despos

Your pictures are factory, mass produced try-ons, made all by machine and are not in the same league. Pockets are machine made. Different systems with different results. Apples and oranges.


I believe the technical term in the 'industry' for this is SONNED

 

[NewYorkIslander]

Looks nice man.

Regarding the gorge and button stance, if thats what you like, rock it. Since you drew the lapels yourself I imagine thats how high you wanted that gorge.

I do think the sleeves can be pitched forward slightly. Real nice for a first attempt.

 

[Redwoood]

Are you going to leave the right shoulder as it is?

 

[Despos]

This is a very basic try-on, used to judge balance, girth, length. The darts are not sewn, the wedge is not cut. The jacket will be opened completely, sleeves removed, shoulder opened, the fronts will be taken off the canvass to make the darts and the breast pocket. The gorge isn't established yet and what is shown has no relevance to the finished garment. Many comments here are premature.

 

[TheTukker]

Originally Posted by coolal

BTW, this was resolved today as well.

The chest will be 1/2 - 3/4 canvassed and then self lined with the Brisa cloth. I also opted to switch out the cotton / silk shirting for Bemberg lining. It'll be used to pipe the chest, tape the seams in back, and to line the sleeves.

Sounds nice; looking forward to more updates.

 

[greger]

Has the coat been finished yet?