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Fabric suggestions for formal fabric, casual details summer blazer

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by josepidal, Jun 13, 2016.

  1. josepidal

    josepidal Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,923
    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2006
    Location:
    Boston, MA
    I want to make a traditional dark navy blazer with a formal looking fabric, but casual details. Summer/tropical travel wear.

    I am thinking:
    - textured dark navy fabric, like a fresco with a more open weave
    - quarter lined, practically no lining
    - standard single breast, notch lapel
    - 3 roll 2 with brass buttons (my tailor is pushing me to 2 button only because the third button will pull down the lapel... true?)
    - soft shoulder with no padding (I have pretty strong shoulders, but should I add a little padding for sharper lines with the formal dark navy color?)
    - 3 patch pockets
    - open quarters, double vents
    - 3 brass buttons on functioning sleeves

    I can't seem to find the right fabric, though. My tailor had a book of Smith frescos that still seemed a bit plain and didn't convey enough texture to me.

    What fabrics have people liked for textured navy blazers?

    Any other suggestions on the details?
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. chippneckwear

    chippneckwear Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    80
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2015
    Unless you are putting very heavy metal button on the blazer the third button will NOT pull down the lapel.
    I have made many blazers using the heavy 3 ply Minnis fresco. It is quite textured, is a great travel cloth- you can practically roll around on the ground and it doesn't wrinkle. Because it is an open weave it is comfortable 12 months of the year. The Minnis range is being discontinued, so I do not know if your tailor will be able to get any.

    There is nothing wrong with any of the details you have listed.
    Personally I prefer grey mother of pearl button for summer blazers. You can then change to brass buttons for the fall/winter season.

    If your intention is to have a "summer only" blazer you can consider Tussah Silk, which is very textured and has an open weave.

    Paul Winston
    Winston Tailors/ www.chippneckwear.com
    212 687-0850
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    260
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2015
    Location:
    Barcelona
    Navy hopsack is the default option for a navy blazer. Almost any cloth merchant have several cloths of this kind to choose from.
     
  4. josepidal

    josepidal Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,923
    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2006
    Location:
    Boston, MA
    Anyone tried combining a little more padding/structure in the shoulder and chest and the more formal dark navy color with casual details like three patch pockets, open quarters and texture like fresco or hopsack?
     

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