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Enzo Bonafe Handmade Shoes.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Chris "Italia", Nov 4, 2007.

  1. MGD83

    MGD83 Well-Known Member

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    My 2 pairs of enzo wholecuts are great. The leather and finishing is easily on par with Edward Green, St. C's, G&G, and they are hand welted. Not saying it's better or worse, as I'm not an expert in leather. But, I have handled all of these above brands and I can tell you that to find a significant difference in finishing or construction is basically splitting hairs.

    On another note, I really don't understand the appeal of a seamless heel wholecut shoe. Is that what will justify the extra $1000.00 ? The seam is in the back and it's covered by your pants. To each his own, but I just can't see why anybody would care about such a detail, or how that would be a deal breaker.
     
  2. meister

    meister Well-Known Member

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    All of the above.
     
  3. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    The StC-shoes are more than double the price of EB. That's not a seamless wholecut though, if I'm correct, the seam is on the inside of the heel. If it where a seamless, it would be more than three times the price.


    It's not design that's the reason, it's the idea of a shoe made in one piece of leather without any seams. No one will notice, not even shoe nerds, especially not if it's with the seam on the inside like the StC above (the replies here shows this very well, you can see the seam if you look close on the pics), if the shoe is a wholecut or a seamless wholecut. But the idea and knowledge that you own and wear a shoe without seams is worth the up charge in many peoples eyes. And the possibility to show people the fact that it has no seams, and tell them about how it was constructed... It's each to his own if you think it's worth it, just saying that the look isn't the important thing here.

    I would know, I'm waiting for a pair of seamless bespoke from Maftei (though the up charge there is much less, just $250. In fact the price for full bespoke seamless Maftei is lower than standard RTW StC shoes, both with hollow shoe trees. Maftei seamless is at $1600 approx.).
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Leaves

    Leaves Well-Known Member

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    Enzo Bonafé makes a seamless wholecut for 7800 SEK (inc. VAT). +15% for MTO. Also, Bonafé has a semi-bespoke program that I have not tried yet though, but I will during my next visit there.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2014
  5. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    Nice! You should add a seamless wholecut to your offerings Leaves, for that price they will most likely fly of the shelves. Must be the cheapest seamless ones around.

    Also, you guys in the shop should get trained to take measurements for their semi-bespoke, so we can order that from you. Since my feet don't go that well with EB lasts, I would love this personally. What is the up charge?
     
  6. sd2002

    sd2002 Well-Known Member

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    May I ask how many visits are needed for Maftei bespoke? And do they offer MTO?
    Thx
     
  7. laufer

    laufer Well-Known Member

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    Yes this is a good idea.

    [COLOR=FF00AA]It would be nice to know.[/COLOR]
     
  8. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    No MTO. Bespoke requires two visits, one for measurement and one for fitting. If there is much work to do on the last it might require a second fitting, but they can just send the test shoes for that in most cases. Price start at €1100 (first order with last making included, further orders €900) for hand welted. Seamless wholecut is €200 up charge.
     
  9. diadem

    diadem Well-Known Member

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    Quote:What do prices start at for bespoke GY-welted shoes at Maftei?
     
  10. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    They don't do Goodyear welted (very rare that that bespoke makers offers this), just hand welted or norvegese.
     
  11. europrep

    europrep Well-Known Member

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    Is this only in person or do they communicate with pictures and test shoes like some of the other makers?
     
  12. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Well-Known Member

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    I think many say goodyear welted for handwelted, even though the two are very different.
     
  13. diadem

    diadem Well-Known Member

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    Quote:No, I'm aware of the differences. I was just wondering if there was a cheaper option than the €1100 starting price for handwelted shoes. For the record, I think that's a very good price as is.
     
  14. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Well-Known Member

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    Ah ok.

    I believe some makers may have parts of the shoe made by machine, but that is as far as I know not too common. In Japan I know of one maker where you can have the sole sewn on by machine, which reduces the cost of 30 000 yen.
    If you have your own last made by Bonafe previously I don't think they would mind doing a blake stitched shoe, but can't remember seeing a goodyear machine there.
     
  15. Leaves

    Leaves Well-Known Member

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    Only in person when visiting their factory. But as @j ingevaldsson suggests, we hope to offer this service in store some day, I cannot comment on when though, as this requires quite a lot of training.
     
  16. barky

    barky Well-Known Member

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    Is there a test shoe for the semi-bespoke? Can we do this through Skoak even if we go there personally as payment and shipping from Italy might be problematic for non EU customers? Also, sorry to repeat the question here but do Bonafe offer hatchgrain and if yes, is there any sample to show?
     
  17. VRaivio

    VRaivio Well-Known Member

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    Speaking of prices, have you had a look at Sleevehead's blog? The prices he quotes for bespoke clothes made in Sicily made me smile. If there are shoemakers still working on the isle, Bonafé won't be the best price-quality deal from Italy. Sicily being mafia area, likely artisans there don't pay much in the way of taxes. Only for "protection"...
     
  18. meister

    meister Well-Known Member

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    Your suggesting that cement shoes are cheaper than leather?:facepalm:
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2014
  19. VRaivio

    VRaivio Well-Known Member

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    I'm suggesting that perhaps there is a shoemaker or two still doing their thing in Sicily, making shuus by hand in a similar way as those on the continental side, but charging less for their time. This is why Sleevehead visits Italy time and again: excellent deals for those who don't mind the trouble.
     
  20. Reero

    Reero Active Member

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    Sicily does have just that, sandal makers there in Taoromina have been targeted to teach the trade to americans who then open up shop and start making these using there raw products and raising the prices, its only time when the shoes are doing the same so buy them while you can.
     

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