Engineered Garments FW08

[robin]

Originally Posted by 1969

My bad. The Chesterfields. What ever it is it would look great on an 72 year old rural Italian, or perhaps in a movie. I think I'd get less looks if I went running down the street naked though.
I think that it's meant to be a showpiece, though I wouldn't be surprised if one or two Japanese stockists picked it up - there's also one in a pin cord stripe on pages 2-3 of the S/S08 lookbook as well. Other unusual pieces done in the past have been a poncho, work overalls, and breek/knicker trousers.

 

[Max]

Originally Posted by timpoblete

I'm definitely picking up a pair of the Norwegian Army Pants this fall.

Cargo pants? Seriously? You're going to spend real money on designer cargo pants? Would these even be considered if they didn't have an EG tag in them?

Regarding whether or not the looks are flattering, these models look short and chunky. Models, as a rule, are neither short nor chunky. "Garments that make you look shorter and fatter than you actually are" is a pretty good definition of "unflattering."

I'd say the fact that the collection seems to be modeled on Lewis Hine photographs makes it qualify as "costume-y." (FWIW, I actually like bow-ties a lot.)

On the quality front, they might be using good fabrics; but the atrocious cutting and sewing, while it may be an intentional design decision, ruins it. The clothes just don't do anything for the wearers.

 

[robin]

Originally Posted by Max

Regarding whether or not the looks are flattering, these models look short and chunky. Models, as a rule, are neither short nor chunky. "Garments that make you look shorter and fatter than you actually are" is a pretty good definition of "unflattering."
It's more bad photography than bad fittings. I don't think the clothing makes them look any less flattering than the shoots done by Ralph Lauren (I think some of those guys have even modeled for RL).

Originally Posted by Max

I'd say the fact that the collection seems to be modeled on Lewis Hine photographs makes it qualify as "costume-y." (FWIW, I actually like bow-ties a lot.)
I'm pretty sure the worker look was intentional. The outfits from the other people showing off at the CFDA event had their own quirks as well.

Originally Posted by Max

On the quality front, they might be using good fabrics; but the atrocious cutting and sewing, while it may be an intentional design decision, ruins it.
That's part of the charm. The pieces are well made, but are far from perfect.

 

[wiru]

i like how anything that isn't a generic "slim fit" is automatically unflattering. and when will people get it into their heads that runway shows and lookbooks aren't bluprints for wearing the clothes irl? they're meant to accentuate whatever is unique or interesting about the brand, the perspective of the designer, etc.

i feel like i'm reading a thom browne thread.

 

[timpoblete]

Originally Posted by Max

Cargo pants? Seriously? You're going to spend real money on designer cargo pants? Would these even be considered if they didn't have an EG tag in them?
I will and I have (which, BTW, isn't for sale anymore to anyone who saw my sale thread in my sig):

Biased Elephant Twill!!!

The EG tag isn't just a piece of cloth that says "Engineered Garments" on it, it means that it was Made in New York, made of quality and often deadstock fabrics, and of a design that you will likely not find anywhere else. Some may look similar, but they aren't that. The pocket designs are what what really gets me with these pants. I've never seen them in the front like that with a flap and just on one side and with that shape.

 

[Max]

Originally Posted by wiru

i like how anything that isn't a generic "slim fit" is automatically unflattering. and when will people get it into their heads that runway shows and lookbooks aren't bluprints for wearing the clothes irl? they're meant to accentuate whatever is unique or interesting about the brand, the perspective of the designer, etc.

i feel like i'm reading a thom browne thread.

I don't want to sound all crotchety and hatery, but "slim fit" usually isn't too flattering unless you're very very thin to begin with. The rises on pants are usually too low, which accentuates the belly and leaves your butt-crack hanging out. The skinny pant legs just make most peoples' thighs and butt look huge. Very tight shirts don't usually look good, and jackets that pull at the fastener just look too small.

I know that "tight" is the trend right now; but 10 years ago the exact opposite was true. I try to dress such that I'll be able to see a picture of myself 10 years later without thinking "oh god, what was I thinking?"

Granted, these clothes are really trendy and fashionable. I just don't think fashion is really for men; and this tight/low rise trend doesn't look particularly good on me.

 

[imightbechad]

Max, If you don't mind my asking, what do you wear? If I parsed your comments correctly, EG's too anti-fit, and - well - anything fitted doesn't work either... What are your options? Eddie Bauer? Personally, I think much of the EG looks too A & F, but there's no denying some of the details/designs are downright inspired. Just curious Chad

 

[Max]

Originally Posted by imightbechad

Max, If you don't mind my asking, what do you wear? If I parsed your comments correctly, EG's too anti-fit, and - well - anything fitted doesn't work either... What are your options? Eddie Bauer? Personally, I think much of the EG looks too A & F, but there's no denying some of the details/designs are downright inspired. Just curious Chad
A lot of stuff in the middle. Black Levi's 505s (with the white weft; not the atrocious overdyed ones) aren't too baggy or too tight, make my butt look good, and interact well with my shoes. Old Le Tigre polo shirts fit me well and most of the colors work well with my skin tone; so I wear those a lot. (I'm a pre-vanity-sizing large in these, and float somewhere around medium in most modern clothes). I've got a rotating cast of V neck sweaters and zip hoodies, mostly plain or with one interesting design feature. Generally, I try not to wear anything that was designed in the last 20 years, although I do have a soft spot for the occasional ridiculous Shmack hoodie (after all, what's the point of fashion if it doesn't put a smile on your face?). I don't really fit in on SF or have any desire to own 6 pairs of super high end jeans; so I'm not on very much.

 

[wiru]

max - i agree with pretty much everything you just wrote. sorry to have misjudged. fit-wise i think you'd actually like eg. at least in my (limited) experience it strikes a good balance, definitely not tight but also not tent-like.

 

[timpoblete]

Pulled from Daiki's blog on Nepenthes: http://www.nepenthes.co.jp/

 

[Max]

Ha! Lewis Hine photographs! I knew it!

 

[Contingency Plan]

The Norwegian army pants should retail around $200?

 

[jet]

Originally Posted by Max

I don't want to sound all crotchety and hatery, but "slim fit" usually isn't too flattering unless you're very very thin to begin with. The rises on pants are usually too low, which accentuates the belly and leaves your butt-crack hanging out. The skinny pant legs just make most peoples' thighs and butt look huge. Very tight shirts don't usually look good, and jackets that pull at the fastener just look too small.

I know that "tight" is the trend right now; but 10 years ago the exact opposite was true. I try to dress such that I'll be able to see a picture of myself 10 years later without thinking "oh god, what was I thinking?"

Granted, these clothes are really trendy and fashionable. I just don't think fashion is really for men; and this tight/low rise trend doesn't look particularly good on me.

I don't want to sound like a dick but why the **** are you here? And why the **** are you always in a foul mood?

 

[robin]

Originally Posted by Contingency Plan

The Norwegian army pants should retail around $200?
Should be around $200.

I don't want to sound like a dick but why the **** are you here? And why the **** are you always in a foul mood?

Uh oh.

 

[stickonatree]

Originally Posted by jet

I don't want to sound like a dick but why the **** are you here? And why the **** are you always in a foul mood?
+1. it's maybe he uses SF as a vent? FWIW, i am on the short side and have an "athletic" build, and the EG jackets i've tried on and own don't make me seem shorter compared to a lot of other things being sold at department stores. the designs and cuts not terribly slim, sure, but it's also far from generic and seem to accentuate or bring an "extra touch" to my outfits.

Originally Posted by Max

I try to dress such that I'll be able to see a picture of myself 10 years later without thinking "oh god, what was I thinking?"
i think that EG is one of those companies that will have pieces lasting 10 years from now. after all, they make pieces that are casual and rugged, in an outdoor-sy kind of way. all generations can appreciate that, imo. just my 2 cents.