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Eidos Napoli

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by hrv123, Aug 14, 2013.

  1. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Well-Known Member

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    Looks like the latest collection would fit more comfortably in SW&D. Sad to see the focus shift from classic menswear, but I guess every brand must evolve. Some great looks regardless of the focus.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2017
  2. mossrockss

    mossrockss Well-Known Member

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    i figure every designer eventually falls prey to showing super stylized looks that nobody would ever wear in real life and in ridiculous combinations that achieve the mood, aesthetic or theme of a collection in a series of photographs, but which have no bearing whatsoever on the everyday life of their actual customers (e.g. super awesome suit trousers modeled only by a woman, etc.). it's just the way of the world, lol.
    thankfully we have people like greg at NMWA or other buyers who can see through all that and purchase things mere mortals like me who do not have the skills to interpret these things can wear haha. and, also, Antonio has said that tailoring will still be designed as part of each collection, so those retailers for whom it is successful, it will still be sold.
     
    3 people like this.
  3. notdesigned

    notdesigned Well-Known Member

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    While I appreciate both SW&D and CM, I really, really like the evolving direction of Eidos. I think it works well with many other contemporary brands, which I think is perhaps best exemplified by Gentry's styling of Eidos. Personally, I wear a lot of Engineered Garments and I find Eidos pairing seamlessly w/ my EG/Nepenthes type pieces.

    Keep up the great work, Antonio and crew.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Newcomer

    Newcomer Well-Known Member

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    I agree - while these collections are styled in a "fashiony" vibe, I can spot a lot of versatile options.

    I do hope that Eidos carries on its tailoring side though. Part of me worries that the tailoring may be phased out down the line. The Eidos x NMWA stuff is, in my humble opinion, the best tailoring option out there in the price range.
     
  5. emynd

    emynd Member

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    I think you guys are overstating how out there and "fashiony" and "stylized" this stuff is. Maybe it's just because I grew up skateboarding and listening to Hiphop so these styles are clearly influenced by the vocabulary of that world. Either way, this collection doesn't look that out there to me, and you don't have to tuck your pants in your boots if you don't want to, ya know? I really like the more casual, sporty, every day vibe of a lot of the pieces and think this makes sense as a sort've extension of the eidos field coat world.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2017
    7 people like this.
  6. mossrockss

    mossrockss Well-Known Member

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    the fact that antonio said isaia asked them to dramatically increase their collection—such that he said they tripled it—means the market seems to agree with his direction as well. which is awesome! more stuff from a talented guy, who manages to make everybody happy (cool streetwear-y stuff; cool tailored stuff; all quality, at a price point that's fair). i intend to ride this train as long as it can be ridden :slayer:
     
  7. mossrockss

    mossrockss Well-Known Member

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    indeed everybody's tastes are different! people wore JNCO's when i was in 7th grade, with long wallet chains and stuff. i had friends who listened to insane clown posse and dressed accordingly. somebody liked that look; i couldn't understand it whatsoever. to each their own!
     
  8. notdesigned

    notdesigned Well-Known Member

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    I wasn't trying to imply that this collection is either "fashiony" or "stylized" and I agree with your overall assessment, particularly the last part. I think there's something for everyone, which is what I've also found in 10 years of buying/wearing Engineered Garments. People can certainly make that look any way they want based on how they put things together and Eidos seems to be heading more in that direction.

    There's plenty of room under the tent for everyone.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. FLW

    FLW Well-Known Member

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    Ultimately I think that Antonio has exquisite taste and a strong commitment to quality and what I guess I would call authenticity (meaning that he cares where something comes from, how it is made, etc.). I am happy to see anything that allows him to keep designing and innovating. The tailoring market is just being hollowed out at the moment. The Slimane-short-suit-to-preppy-to-Italian-soft-tailoring arc that has been running for the last 12+ years is starting to fade and I sense that big buys in the tailoring market just don't make sense for many stores. The older Eidos collections definitely "spoke" to me more, but you have to respect the market as it stands and the demand that exists there.

    I read an interview with Antonio (on GQ.com, I believe?) about the new collection. He was thoughtful and honest, as usual, but I particularly liked his idea of making things to last and making items that can/should be worn to death. Viewed through that lens, it also makes sense to step away from tailoring for the time being. I have two suits (one flannel, one fresco) and five sport coats (one tweed, two wool/cashmere, one linen, and one pure silk) from Eidos. If I am in fact going to wear them till they fall off of me, do I really need more? I am hesitant to get too existential when it comes to clothing, but it is interesting how the development of a brand can bring you face-to-face with such questions.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2017
    5 people like this.
  10. mossrockss

    mossrockss Well-Known Member

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    Perfectly said, and nearly exactly how I feel. I agree completely on the question of "do I really need more?" I personally have a few more tailoring items to check off on my list of what my concept of a "complete wardrobe" in tailoring is, so I will pursue purchasing those, and that's why I'm glad to see he's committed to continuing to design them. But yeah, dude, your first two sentences are exactly right. :slayer:
     
  11. Mariokartfever

    Mariokartfever Well-Known Member

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    I tell this to myself every year.

    Then I find new things I "need."
     
    2 people like this.
  12. NickPollica

    NickPollica Well-Known Member

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    I would be interested to see what the consensus on what typifies "streetwear" to most SF users on the CM side of the forum is. As someone who grew up skateboarding and surrounded by streetwear, I have a difficult time classifying our collection as such. Nearly every piece has a historical antecedent. I think the biggest shift is that our references have broadened outside a specific regional style. I am most interested in finding commonalities in cultures currently foreign to me - from all over the globe. What garments are important to those cultures and why? If there are similar motivations but different cultural executions, I want to learn about them and find ways to incorporate them into what we do. This was the impetus for spending two weeks in India in preparation for the upcoming spring collection. What does classic style look like in Rajasthan?


    Starting next fall we are actually selling the collection unisex (exclusively at Mill Mercantile, the sister store of Unionmade), thus the inclusion of women in the lookbook. And for the record, we showed those trousers on Tommy as well:

    [​IMG]



    Thanks - This is exactly where my head is.


    No plans whatsoever to phase out tailoring. We strive to make the collection reflective of a complete wardrobe and I strongly believe every guy needs a few great pieces of tailored clothing in their closet.



    Most of the requested increases from Isaia were on the tailored side of things. We tripled the amount of tailoring samples in the showroom and they were all but ignored in the market appointments. Outside of Marcus and NMWA basically none of our accounts are retailing the tailoring.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2017
    8 people like this.
  13. mossrockss

    mossrockss Well-Known Member

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  14. NickPollica

    NickPollica Well-Known Member

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    Nearly all of MP3's business is done over the phone and sweaters and outerwear are dramatically out performing tailoring.
     
  15. forsan

    forsan Well-Known Member

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    Coincidentally, I made a phone order with them for the shearling hunting jacket today. My only other MP3 purchase was also a phone order for the Trapunto sometime last year.
     
  16. wigglr

    wigglr Well-Known Member

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    Their inventory updates of the website is pretty abysmal. Could be part of the equation
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Doktor Corn

    Doktor Corn Active Member

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    I asked this in the NMWA thread a few days ago but it didn't get a reply, and I figure it's more appropriate here anyway. I'm looking at the size 38 db ulster overcoat but I'm a bit worried about the length and the shoulder measurements. I'm only 5'8" and most of my sport coats have about 17-17.5 inch shoulder widths, while the ulster measures 19.7" across. I'm worried I'm just too short and slight for it, but I know measurements can be deceiving. For comparison, my Matera is about 18.5" across and it already seems nice and extended over a sport coat on me. This is basically the ideal overcoat design in my eyes and the price is right but previous posts about its true size have been contentious.
     
  18. charliechan

    charliechan Well-Known Member

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    I think it will be too large. I have similar measurements to you and had to alter my 36/46EU ulster by making it shorter from the shoulders (also took it in at the waist but I'm fairly slim). Pretty expensive job but now fits quite well with / without a suit jacket.

    I also have an unaltered 38/48 Matera jacket which is a bit roomier but the fit on casual outerwear isn't as critical...
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Doktor Corn

    Doktor Corn Active Member

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    Thank you for the confirmation. I'll just grab some stuff for the new season, then.
     
  20. JIMB

    JIMB Well-Known Member

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    Do you know where the breton will be sold? Is it shown oversized, or can I wear as a tee?
     

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