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Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Harrydog, Mar 11, 2012.

  1. Geezer

    Geezer Well-Known Member

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    Interesting. I agree on height - it can be variable. And I have a nagging suspicion that EG quality control is not quite as good now as it was in the fairly recent past. But my observation on width is based on having annoyingly narrow heels, and on possessing 4 pairs of 82s, 1 pr of 888s, 3 pairs of 202s and 11 pairs of 88s, acquired over the last 20 years.

    Over the years, I have tried on but not bought many pairs of 202s and 606s because of heel slip (also why I have never bought JLPs). The 202s I have bought were I thought oddities that had been made on the narrow side as part of the usual variation in manufacturing tolerances (and were on sale: I much prefer the "8" lasts, in particular the 88).

    So I have always believed the heels on the "8" lasts were narrower. If they are not, then there is some other property of those lasts that stops my heels slipping that perhaps only DFW can explain. But to be honest, they all do seem to fit tighter on my heels than their 202 brethren.

    I'll try to remember to ask the EG folk about this next time I'm in the shop.
     
  2. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

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    +1
    RL trees are a very economical way to get what are essentially lasted trees for most EGs for the reasons stated above.
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2012
  3. cbbuff

    cbbuff Well-Known Member

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    For the 202. Any ideas for 888 shoes?
     
  4. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

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    888 is a different story. If you want true lasted trees for 888 you need to go EG. RIght is EG 888 tree, left is RL. The angle of the shot magnifies the differences between the two trees, but it's there nonetheless.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2012
  5. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

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    BTW, Nore is right about the 202- I'm told it is the last from which all other EG lasts were derived. I don't think it's a big deal to use RL trees (based on the 202) in EG shoes made on any last.
     
  6. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

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    Funny, my 888 trees have a squared toe.
     
  7. theyare

    theyare Well-Known Member

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    So are the mahogany trees that came with 888 last RLPL shoes 888 lasted or not?
     
  8. PhiloVance

    PhiloVance Well-Known Member

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    I'm always a bit confused by this because people talk as if the 202 has been in use for eons. But wsn't the 201 the precursor to the 202? Which would make the 202, at best, a last that came along in the mid to late 1980s?

    Bengal-Stripe? AlanC? Well-kept? Anyone? Bueller?
     
  9. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

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    Some quick comparison shots I just took:

    202 888
    [​IMG]

    888 tree
    [​IMG]

    202 tree
    [​IMG]

    888 202 trees
    [​IMG]

    82 with 202 tree
    [​IMG]
     
  10. cbbuff

    cbbuff Well-Known Member

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    After searching, I came across this post which has great info on the genealogy of EG lasts:

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by tlmusic
    Here's an explanation of the Edward Green lasts by Tony Gaziano. For those that don't know, he designed the 888 and 82 lasts, and certainly worked extensively with the others. This is taken from the London Lounge Site posted November 7, 2005. I hope this is OK to post it here, since I don't know how to link directly to it.



    "Hi Guys

    Just to clarify, the 606, 202 are the same family and the 888,82 last are the same family, the last that was produced for Fosters was the 88 last and the 32,33 last were the parents of the 202,606.

    so the EG last order goes like this.

    first the 32 round toe last
    second the 33 square toe version of the 32
    third the 202, adapted 32 to fit better
    fourth the 606 square toe version of 202
    fifth 808 elegant square toe based on the 88 but did not fit well
    sixth 89 developed for R.Lauren as a better fitting 808
    seventh 888 bespoke looking last developed from 202 but longer and narrower toe box
    eighth 82 round toe based on 888

    ther have been other lasts produced by EG but mostly for other customers, not EG core range.

    there are also numerous slip-on last, but there development history is not as striaght forward.


    Tony"
     
  11. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    is this apron handstitched?
     
  12. mr monty

    mr monty Well-Known Member

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    "Just to clarify, the 606, 202 are the same family and the 888,82 last are the same family, the last that was produced for Fosters was the 88 last and the 32,33 last were the parents of the 202,606."

    thanks for the post from London Lounge
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2012
  13. PhiloVance

    PhiloVance Well-Known Member

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    I've been meaning to do a blog entry comparing EG's various lasts, and cbbuff's digging inspired me to get to it. Unfortunately, I'm missing some of the lasts that Tony mentioned (606, 88, 808), but I was able to include the 32, 33, 202, 346, 89, 888, 82, 201. I was going to include the loafer lasts as well but didnt want to go overboard.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Pictured in the first image (l to r):

    Captoe Longwing for Wildsmith, 32 last
    Cadogan for Cole Haan, 33 last
    Malvern III, 202 last
    Malvern for Brooks English, 346 last
    Hutton for RLPL, 89 last
    Brooksville for RLPL, 888 last
    Falkirk, 82 last
    Windsor, 201 last

    I'd love to see the 606, 88, or 808, if anyone has 'em.

    You can see more pics at:

    http://uptowndandy.blogspot.com/2012/03/evolution-of-last-edward-green-from-to.html
     
  14. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

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    Does RL make mahogany trees anymore? The only ones I've been able to order are cedar and based on the 202. The EG 888 trees I have all lack the chisel toe.....

    cbbuff thanks for the info on the lasts! Very cool.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2012
  15. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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  16. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

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    bespoke looking last? wonder what he means?




    oooh ah- awsm stuff
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2012
  17. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

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    They don't carry or offer the mahogany trees anymore. But you may still stumble across a pair or two when guys sell their shoes. Sometimes they're willing to part with them separately.
     
  18. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    +1, like, Did I miss an EG sale? :slayer:
     
  19. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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  20. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    clueless, i cannot belive it???
     

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