Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

[dddrees]

Well it sounds like they are changing some things, so maybe now they will.

I asked about this specifically regarding the Galway, and was informed that they could do it. They did note that the boot would be constructed from two different hides, meaning the colour may not be perfectly consistent.

I *may* be off with that £200 figure for shell, but I think that it is roughly correct.

If that's the case and they have changed their policy then that would be nice.

 

[dddrees]

I was speaking to Mr. Christopher Gumbs (many of you have probably met Chris before, he used to be the store manager at EG Jermyn Street, now he is the new sales director after Xavier left the company a couple of months back) yesterday during our Edward Green Trunk Show and got some more info in regards of why EG is so restrictive with Cordovan boots. Basically the only boot they will make in Cordovan is the Alderley. The reason is they can't get the Cordovan to shape well at the leg with boot patterns, it ruins the shell (I expect that this is why Carmina won't make Jodhpurs or Chelseas in Cordovan).

But the Alderley is not bad bad choice for an EG Cordovan make-up? What say you?

@NAMOR

This is what I was able to find so far.

 

[dddrees]

Just got an e-mail from Edward Green. They cannot make up the Galway in Cordovan.

@NAMOR

Just found this as well.

 

[NAMOR]

Thanks man

 

[dddrees]

Thanks man

My pleasure.

 

[JulianL]



Very interesting and thanks for posting. 

Now that last changes can be accommodated by "advanced" MTO I would think there is not much need for Top Drawer. Is it still believed Top Drawer will yield a higher level of finishing than Advanced MTO or will Top Drawer no longer exist?

The waist on Top Drawer is very different to a standard MTO. The TD is a true fiddleback waist. To me that makes it worth going TD so I hope they will be keeping the TD option.

Does anyone have a better feel for how the fit on the new 890 last is likely to compare with the 888? The comments I've seen seem to indicate that it might be a bit narrower at the toe. I hope it hasn't gone as far as the G&G TG73 because that is too pointy for me, both in terms of fit and aesthetics, but something half way between the EG 888 and the G&G TG73 would be very interesting to me.

The nose of the 890 seems to have a more pronounced chisel than the 888.The pictures that I've seen of the 890 have looked interesting enough to make me delay my next MTO (Top Drawer) order until I can try on an 890 for fit. I'm hoping it might be a bit narrower in the heel to help with heel slip that I get with the 888 or maybe a slightly narrower toe will stop my foot sliding forward in the shoe which might be another way to fix my heel slip.

- Julian

 

[sevenfoldtieguy]

Very interesting and thanks for posting. 

Now that last changes can be accommodated by "advanced" MTO I would think there is not much need for Top Drawer. Is it still believed Top Drawer will yield a higher level of finishing than Advanced MTO or will Top Drawer no longer exist?

The waist on Top Drawer is very different to a standard MTO. The TD is a true fiddleback waist. To me that makes it worth going TD so I hope they will be keeping the TD option.

Does anyone have a better feel for how the fit on the new 890 last is likely to compare with the 888? The comments I've seen seem to indicate that it might be a bit narrower at the toe. I hope it hasn't gone as far as the G&G TG73 because that is too pointy for me, both in terms of fit and aesthetics, but something half way between the EG 888 and the G&G TG73 would be very interesting to me.

The nose of the 890 seems to have a more pronounced chisel than the 888.The pictures that I've seen of the 890 have looked interesting enough to make me delay my next MTO (Top Drawer) order until I can try on an 890 for fit. I'm hoping it might be a bit narrower in the heel to help with heel slip that I get with the 888 or maybe a slightly narrower toe will stop my foot sliding forward in the shoe which might be another way to fix my heel slip.

- Julian

A tongue pad is your friend when it comes to minor to moderate heel slip.

 

[Ironist]



I should have ordered my Galways. Wish they'd give some level of advance notice. Meh.

I'm in the same boat... Not only is it 5% more but the three order minimum makes me even further away from getting a pair of stock Galways .

 

[smoothie1]



The waist on Top Drawer is very different to a standard MTO. The TD is a true fiddleback waist. To me that makes it worth going TD so I hope they will be keeping the TD option.

Does anyone have a better feel for how the fit on the new 890 last is likely to compare with the 888? The comments I've seen seem to indicate that it might be a bit narrower at the toe. I hope it hasn't gone as far as the G&G TG73 because that is too pointy for me, both in terms of fit and aesthetics, but something half way between the EG 888 and the G&G TG73 would be very interesting to me.

The nose of the 890 seems to have a more pronounced chisel than the 888.The pictures that I've seen of the 890 have looked interesting enough to make me delay my next MTO (Top Drawer) order until I can try on an 890 for fit. I'm hoping it might be a bit narrower in the heel to help with heel slip that I get with the 888 or maybe a slightly narrower toe will stop my foot sliding forward in the shoe which might be another way to fix my heel slip.

- Julian

It would be helpful to refer to past posts on Ralph Lauren's 89 last made by Edward Green. It just so happens I wore a pair of 89 lasted oxfords today (RLPL Peering). I am not exactly sure how the discontinued 89 compares to the 890.

But, I am able to say the 89 is a generously sized last in terms of room in the toe box. Though the shape tapers rather dramatically to a chiseled toe. It (89) is roomier than the 888 in the forefoot, and the heel cup on the 89 is not trimmer than the 888. I assume the 890 resembles the 89 with a few small tweaks. If anything, I would guess EG made the overall fit a shade narrower than the 89. Please understand, I am merely speculating here. Cheers.

P.S. - There is no reason to assume Top Drawer will be discontinued. The margins on those shoes are substantial, and the program's popularity is quite high. Moreover, the shoes are amazing.

 

[tifosi]



I'm in the same boat... Not only is it 5% more but the three order minimum makes me even further away from getting a pair of stock Galways .

Hopefully both yours and Buda's sizes will be available when Skoak re-stocks in the fall.

 

[budapest12]

Hopefully both yours and Buda's sizes will be available when Skoak re-stocks in the fall.

Hope so, though of course I am now back to dreaming of a 606-lasted Galway. Hrmmm.

 

[Leaves]

^^

Top Drawer will not be discontinued, I can confirm this. Top Drawer will however only be accepted during trunk shows (this is a new policy, I hope this may change). Prices begin at these levels.

"Any shoe from the RTW price list with EG Top Drawer build construction and finish":
Shoes £1625
Hand (shoes hand sewn details, Dover etc) £1750
Boot £1875

There's also been talk of some other interesting improvements of the TD offering, but this is in the developing stages, hopefully EG will let me tell you more soon. Again, prices are EG Jermyn Street prices including UK VAT.

Regarding the Shell Cordovan, it's probably closer to £300 surcharge. In the new price list it's only listed as "Price On Application".

Talking of Trunk Shows, if you happen to be in Stockholm during the last weekend of August (August 29-30), please drop by our Edward Green Trunk Show.

 

[hoodog]

I will say that squared apron toe does not look so bad after all.

Although that looks much more round than I have seen in the past.

looks great! from that angle, apron has a soft rounded oval shape

Mine (again) as reference:




There seems indeed to be a difference between these and the ones posted by laufer above. Maybe the design was slightly different in the past? Or maybe they were altered somewhat through a MTO?

Personally, I like the more squared apron, since this makes more of a contrast to the regular Dover. Otherwise, when your pants cover the boot's shaft, a Nevis could easily pass as just another Dover. There's not much fun in having lots of shoes that look almost exactly alike IMO.

Edit: Found this pic through Google, where the apron also seems to be more rounded like on the Dover. The whole boot looks a bit off to me, but I can't really put my finger on why. Maybe its done on the 82 last or something?

 

[hoodog]

^^

Top Drawer will not be discontinued, I can confirm this. Top Drawer will however only be accepted during trunk shows (this is a new policy, I hope this may change). Prices begin at these levels.

Thanks again for the info, Leaves.

To me, this all seems very expensive though. Sure, TD shoes are marvelous and all, but IMHO they're not that attractive when you consider the bespoke and semi-bespoke alternatives that can be had at the same price level or even considerably lower.

 

[smoothie1]

Thanks again for the info, Leaves.

To me, this all seems very expensive though. Sure, TD shoes are marvelous and all, but IMHO they're not that attractive when you consider the bespoke and semi-bespoke alternatives that can be had at the same price level or even considerably lower.

I believe the price of TD shoes in the American market was well below the equivalent of £1625 before now. I am curious about how much retailers in the U.S. will charge to TD shoes. Also, only at trunk shows?!?! That is a terrible and seemingly arbitrary policy.