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Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Harrydog, Mar 11, 2012.

  1. tifosi

    tifosi Well-Known Member

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    Hopefully both yours and Buda's sizes will be available when Skoak re-stocks in the fall.
     
  2. budapest12

    budapest12 Well-Known Member

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    Hope so, though of course I am now back to dreaming of a 606-lasted Galway. Hrmmm.
     
  3. Leaves

    Leaves Well-Known Member

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    ^^

    Top Drawer will not be discontinued, I can confirm this. Top Drawer will however only be accepted during trunk shows (this is a new policy, I hope this may change). Prices begin at these levels.

    "Any shoe from the RTW price list with EG Top Drawer build construction and finish":
    Shoes £1625
    Hand (shoes hand sewn details, Dover etc) £1750
    Boot £1875


    There's also been talk of some other interesting improvements of the TD offering, but this is in the developing stages, hopefully EG will let me tell you more soon. :) Again, prices are EG Jermyn Street prices including UK VAT.

    Regarding the Shell Cordovan, it's probably closer to £300 surcharge. In the new price list it's only listed as "Price On Application".

    Talking of Trunk Shows, if you happen to be in Stockholm during the last weekend of August (August 29-30), please drop by our Edward Green Trunk Show. :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  4. hoodog

    hoodog Well-Known Member

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    Mine (again) as reference:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    There seems indeed to be a difference between these and the ones posted by laufer above. Maybe the design was slightly different in the past? Or maybe they were altered somewhat through a MTO?

    Personally, I like the more squared apron, since this makes more of a contrast to the regular Dover. Otherwise, when your pants cover the boot's shaft, a Nevis could easily pass as just another Dover. There's not much fun in having lots of shoes that look almost exactly alike IMO.

    Edit: Found this pic through Google, where the apron also seems to be more rounded like on the Dover. The whole boot looks a bit off to me, but I can't really put my finger on why. Maybe its done on the 82 last or something?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2014
  5. hoodog

    hoodog Well-Known Member

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    Thanks again for the info, Leaves.

    To me, this all seems very expensive though. Sure, TD shoes are marvelous and all, but IMHO they're not that attractive when you consider the bespoke and semi-bespoke alternatives that can be had at the same price level or even considerably lower.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2014
  6. smoothie1

    smoothie1 Well-Known Member

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    I believe the price of TD shoes in the American market was well below the equivalent of £1625 before now. I am curious about how much retailers in the U.S. will charge to TD shoes. Also, only at trunk shows?!?! That is a terrible and seemingly arbitrary policy.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2014
  7. JulianL

    JulianL Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Smoothie. Although as you say only speculation it's still interesting. A post that I saw regarding the 890 last on a Swedish blog (http://www.shoegazing.se/2014/07/04/nyhet-edward-green-lanserar-nya-lasten-890/) mentions that the 890 is derived from the RL 89 last (assuming Google translate didn't mangle the meaning when I translated it from Swedish).

    If the 890 does turn out to be wider than the 888 in the forefoot that might still help me. I was considering sizing down either a half size, a width or even both to try and tighten up the left heel. Whether sizing down would make it too tight on the forefoot was a concern so the 890 last might give me something to work with there. I really need to try them on though. I'll try and get into the Jermyn Street store in the next week or so and see what they have to say about it.

    sevenfoldtieguy - Thanks for the suggestion re the tongue pad. I tried that solution fairly early on but I should give it another go because when I first tried it maybe the shoes hadn't broken in enough and I was just asking the tongue pad to do too much. I'll fit another and give it a go again, maybe the combination of the tongue pad and better broken in soles might work better this time. Only one tongue pad needed for the experiment because the fit on my right foot is perfect, it's only the left one that has the slip. In a way that makes it worse because I'm aware of the difference which makes it more apparent.

    - Julian
     
  8. JulianL

    JulianL Well-Known Member

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    Wow. That's a big hike in Top Drawer prices. I placed an order for a Shannon in March this year, after the 2013 round of price increases, and that was £1,550 inc VAT including metal toe taps. I was also going to place an order for a regular shoe at the same time but I deferred that order while I tried to resolve on my heel slip issue on my previous TD order. Had I placed the shoe order that would have been £1,350 inc VAT (up from £1,250 the previous year) so the price increases vs current 2014 TD prices are +21.0% on boots and +20.4% on shoes (to 1 decimal place).

    Those "interesting improvements" of the TD offering had better be pretty worthwhile because the UK inflation rate is 1.5% at the moment so those 20%-ish price rises certainly count as inflation-busting increases if it's simply a price adjustment to the same product rather than anticipating some significant improvements.

    - Julian
     
  9. hoodog

    hoodog Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't read too much into this. AFAIK this is only speculation and hasn't been confirmed by EG. And so far, the number of people who have actually handled the 890 last IRL are pretty few.

    Edit: oh and by the way, Google did mess up a bit since the sentence you are referring to begins with something like: "Rumor has it (or "it has been said") that the 890 last is derived from the RL 89 last." So the basic message isn't that confident as one might think in the first place.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2014
  10. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    @Leaves so this means I can't order a one of stock line model MTO in my size, until you have at least two more of the same kind to put in the order?

    What will the wait time for stock line MTO shoes be now? Thanks.
     
  11. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    Hmm, that's a bit weird with TD orders only at trunk shows. Like you say, hope this will change.

    So, let's see whose winning the race to offer hand welted British factory made MTO-shoes first, Edward Green or Gaziano and Girling :)
    (Since Cleverley just was bullshitting us about doing the Anthony Cleverley range hand welted.)
     
  12. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    Was it indeed hand welted RTW they were after? I thought GG was pursuing a machine welting, but that would eliminate the geming (with a thicker insole perhaps). I would be curious what exactly you have heard on this matter... :lurk:
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2014
  13. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    G&G are looking in to the possibility to offer a hand welted range, only made MTO like Deco, with the same type of pre-cut insoles (where they order the insoles with the holdfasts already cut out) as Saint Crispin's, Enzo Bonafé, Meermin and most other RTW/MTO brands do (more or less just the Hungarians who do their RTW/MTO hand welting the bespoke way, where they cut out the holdfast themselves from a thicker insole). But it was just early plans from G&G which they told me when I visited the factory last fall, not at all sure that it would actually happen. Haven't heard anything about it since then, but I can check with them and see if there's been happening anything on this front (most likely not much though, since they probably been all busy with new factory and shop to look into this as well).
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2014
  14. Leaves

    Leaves Well-Known Member

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    From what I understand the G&G hand welting option is at a very early test stage, it could take years before they offer this service, if they ever do. The Top Drawer option I speak of is not hand welted offerings, it's something else. Very hush hush. :)
     
  15. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Well-Known Member

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    All of GC's ranges are GYW?

    I wonder what has spurred all these changes recently? Is it just popularity? Curious as to how other markets that produce footwear (e.g., Hungary, Japan, etc.) fare if Northampton houses' prices get too steep.
     
  16. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    Darn, took a shot, and missed :) Interesting to see what EG is up too though.



    Yeah, I'm actually surprised that there hasn't been more talk about this. As I've understood things (pretty hard to know all for sure, since there's a lot of rumours going around) is that Cleverley marketed their Anyhoby Cleverley range as being hand welted at first, though many people including myself wondered how they could offer that nice shoes who on top of that was also hand welted, in their own workshop according to them as well. Among others Leather Soul was trying hard to convince sceptics about this (totally understandable since that was what they were told from Cleverley). Then from two different sources who have examined the shoes closer, one who supposedly took them a part, they were indeed discovered to be Goodyear welted. Cleverley people confronted with this stopped answering mails, and I've also heard (unconfirmed, just rumours) that the reason that Leather Soul stopped carrying AC was because of this false marketing.

    Now Cleverley don't mention hand welted anywhere in their marketing of the AC range anymore, and seem to just sit quiet hoping that no one will care to much about this. I think it's a dreadful shame and so stupid of them to falsely advertise them as hand welted, when it's so easy to pick them apart and know the truth. Especially since the shoes are drop dead awesome, even if they are Goodeyesr welted, so why then just not let them be just that.

    Of course we are not talking about Cleverley bespoke now, they are obviously fully handmade.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2014
  17. laufer

    laufer Well-Known Member

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    Marketing and profit margins my friend, if you can offer another product range for which there is a willing buyer and you can increase your profit margin, why not?
    This is very old trick, make another product line that is more prestigious and expensive, suddenly your entry level product does not look so expensive anymore.
    That is why Honda has Acura division, that is why Toyota has Lexus division etc. You can find many examples like this all over the marketplace, just walk into your local supermarket and watch all those "Artisanal" products made by the same manufacturer. Some people will buy these products even though they are made in the same factory and the only noticeable difference is the packaging. That is the power of the perception and marketing.
    Now @DWFII does not sound like grumpy old man anymore?
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    :cheers:
     
  19. The Shoe Snob

    The Shoe Snob Well-Known Member

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    From what they (EG) told me (without actually saying it), the 890 is a derivative of the 888 in an attempt to phase it out (the 888) and have something that was EG made and not Tony G made as I believe the 888 was. Of course they did not mention Tony G. directly, but one can put 2 & 2 in order to make 4, especially when words like "more English, more defined etc" were being used. That being, the 890 is the new 888 and I expect that the 888 will be phased out slowly but surely. As per it being wider, I can't speak on that front, but the toe is definitely narrower at the tip, but very slightly and is a bit sharper too.



    +1 those prices are a bit much....



    Due to all of the back and forth chat on SF about gemming, G&G did attempt a thick leather insole with holdfast on a RTW shoe and the results were not pleasing to them. Tony told me that there is a reason for gemming in RTW (outside of saving a buck or two) and while I truly can't remember his explanation in full, I remember it making sense in a manufacturing way. I believe that it has do with balance and the finesse of his shoes. If I remember correctly, he said that using the thick leather insole to make a holdfast for welting automatically bulked up his shoes and put them off the balance (way too much toe spring), resulting in a shoe that did not look as appealing (nor as comfortable) as your typical G&G shoe.

    This is not exactly what you were referring to in regards to handwelting but does touch on the idea of using leather insoles and holdfasts as opposed to canvas ribs...
     
  20. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    No disrespect to anyone...esp. not Tony...but on the face of it (in the absence of other explanations) that's bogus, IMO. My friend at Colonial Williamsburg makes historically correct (so this isn't new--17th century), hand welted shoes with leather insoles as thin as 6 iron. And I've done dern near the same on some women's shoes I make--all hand welted.

    When does an insole become a sockliner and nothing more?

    And beyond that, from the insole outward, gemming...which stands proud of the insole...and the concomitant thick cork make for at least as thick a profile as the virtual nothing that sits between a handwelted insole and the outsole.

    PS...in my experience, toe spring is toe spring--it is set by the last and, like the heel height, more or less set in stone, as well. Nothing in the closing or bottoming techniques will alter or affect it.

    --
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2014

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