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Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Harrydog, Mar 11, 2012.

  1. cwh812

    cwh812 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. This makes sense.
     
  2. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Well-Known Member

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    Mind I move the thread to EG pics? Specifically, anyone have some pics of their shoes in midnight antique after a moderate amount of wear? I am curious as to how they well age. Thanks!
     
  3. kolecho

    kolecho Well-Known Member

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    EG width designation is standard no matter where the shoes are sold. They do not annotate a given width with a different letter in different markets.
     
  4. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Well-Known Member

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    Exactly, i.e. the E width sold by LS or Leffot is the same as the E width sold in their London shop.
     
  5. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

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    Funny, I take an E width in EG but am normally a D width in US shoes.
     
  6. kolecho

    kolecho Well-Known Member

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    Most of us do.
     
  7. mrbrioni

    mrbrioni Well-Known Member

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    Same here.

    I was under the impression that E width in EG is standard D width for the US.
     
  8. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    "Width" is a bit of a misnomer, as most people presume the term refers to the sole measurement (left to right). It is actually the circumference of the last, measured at the ball and other points of the last. The old term "fitting" would be probably more appropriate. In the old days a slim last was fitted-up with additional leather pieces to increase volume; this would also have increased the width of the sole with each additional 'fitting' attached.

    The standard rule for the widest point of the sole is the ball measurement divided by 3 plus 10%. Let's do it metric (much easier than dividing inches) a circumference of 240mm : 3 + 10% + 88mm. The increase in circumference from one width to the next is about 5mm, which means the increase (or decrease) in sole width is about 1.5mm from one fitting to the next. Here is a drawing showing a particular last in a given size and different widths. The length remains constant, but the measurement at the widest point changes.

    [​IMG]

    Most shoe factories (maybe all) do not change the sole shape with every width. The soles are dye-cut (large cookie-cutters) and it is common practice to build two shoe width on the same sole shape (the wider last is higher but not wider at the base, so the wider shoe has more volume but not in every dimension.) EG builds D and E on the same sole shape (this was once confirmed to me by an EG employee.) So E is higher than D, has more volume but is, strictly speaking, not wider than D. I presume with American shoes, although I had that never confirmed, widths C and D are based on the same insole; than a wider one will cover E and EE.

    Here is a drawing from a text book (Golding, 1935) comparing a typical English with a typical American last.

    [​IMG]

    The American one is wider in the base and shallower, the English one narrower and higher, giving both of them (more or less) the same circumference. I believe that distinction is still the case: American shoes are shallower (some of the Alden loafers can be extremely tight across the instep). So the EG shoe in D (same sole shape, but shallower last) will be closer to the American ideal, than the English E width; the American E width will be wider in the base than the standard English E, but they are quite close to each other in circumference.

    I say that with reasonable, but not absolute, certainty as I have not access to the different individual last and so cannot get confirmation by runnig a tape measure over them. But I do not think, that I'm too far off.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2012
    6 people like this.
  9. cwh812

    cwh812 Well-Known Member

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    Bengal-stripe- thank you. Very informative.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2012
  10. ncdobson

    ncdobson Well-Known Member

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    +1. That explains to me why I can wear Allen Edmonds shoes on the same last in both E & EE. Thanks!
     
  11. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

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    This makes perfect sense, which is probably why English shoes fit me better because of my higher instep. Thanks, Bengal.
     
  12. Macallan

    Macallan Well-Known Member

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    I did have a chance to pop into EG today, all the shoes (in my size) I saw were the usual 30% discount. They had more shoes then expected (all the shelves were full of shoes), either they had a lot more shoes on sale this summer or it has been a quiet period for them.

    I was disappointed by the lack of black options in my size and width, many in dark brown and a few in blue two; I purchased a pair of their wool socks, anyone know who makes them?
     
  13. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    Edward Green stocks Gallo socks (possibly the only store in London to carry Gallo).

    But whether all of EG's socks are made by Gallo (or only certain designs), I wouldn't know.
     
  14. Macallan

    Macallan Well-Known Member

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    They are made in Italy, which probably means they are made by Gallo; I did not check the cashmere socks.
     
  15. Macallan

    Macallan Well-Known Member

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    EG have confirmed current socks are Bresciani-made, they no longer stock Gallo socks.
     
  16. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

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  17. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

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    Nice combo. Iunno about the double soles, tho.
     
  18. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    unique
     
  19. Needsmoreshoes

    Needsmoreshoes Well-Known Member

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    Just a quick heads up to any EG fans who might not yet know:

    Leffot have got up to 30% selected EG models on their online store so give them a look if you're interested
     
  20. Burton

    Burton Well-Known Member

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    I agree. Won't be everyone's cup of tea but you won't run into others anywhere.
     

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