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East Sicily Tailors

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by UrbanComposition, May 27, 2016.

  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    Those look really good.

    Did you direct him at all, or is this pretty much his house style? And is the shoulder line on the DB more padded or extended? It looks a little stronger than the other.

    Really nice to see a new tailor discussed on this board. Feel like it's been a while since we've seen something that's both new and good.


    AFAIK, that's the default style in Southern Italy for that kind of cloth.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2016
    2 people like this.
  2. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Well-Known Member

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    It's his house style, which is great to begin with. He'll ask for lapel width, and details, but otherwise I let him do his thing. He is very proud that his style is classic but modern. His suggestions were a very small "rollino" on the sleevhead of the DB, along with a option to button either the middle or bottom, which I agreed with. The shape of the peak lapels looks great; very very slight belly with the points not too high.

    The sleeves on the single breasted have a very subtle waterfall effect, which I asked for. If I were to do it again, I'd ask for the shoulders on the SB to be a bit more extended, but really I'm quite happy. His patch pockets have a wonderfully slight curve to them, and the quarters are open without being overly dramatic. All in all, he is a very talented tailor, flexible, and knows what looks good.
     
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  3. GBR

    GBR Well-Known Member

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    Interesting, thanks.

    Out of curiosity, why did you have the trousers made elsewhere? An unusual approach.
     
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  4. comrade

    comrade Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Jun 6, 2016
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  5. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Well-Known Member

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    The guys at Tailors Keep already have my trouser pattern and I quite like it. When I go back I'll have trousers made by Arrigo, I think with a single pleat.
     
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  6. carpu65

    carpu65 Well-Known Member

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    Today in Arrigo tailorshop i have see the cloth remained of the oatmeal Fox flannel double breasted.
    Is a wonderful fabric!
    What weight have?
    I hope to order a similiar flannel,but in light gray from the Fox Flannel site.
     
  7. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Well-Known Member

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    If I remember correctly, the Fox oatmeal flannel is 14 oz.
     
  8. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Well-Known Member

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    I have asked Sig Arrigo if I can share pricing and he gave me the green light:

    For those visiting his sartoria in Messina the price for a jacket is €800, €300 for trousers and €300 for a vest. Turnaround is 10 days to two weeks, depending on workload. He may visit New York and if he does, his cost will be considerably higher. If you are going to him in Messina you either must speak Italian or hire a translator, as he doesn't speak English.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2016
    5 people like this.
  9. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    Wow. Those prices are incredible.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Well-Known Member

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    You just broke the Internet.
     
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  11. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    Jesus.

    So, is the shoulder line on the on the cream DB exactly the same as the navy SB? It looks a little more padded and extended in the photos, but I don't know if that's because of the lighter fabric.

    Also, any more SF-robo pose photos of the two jackets with a collared shirt?
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2016
  12. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    By the way, did you get a chance to see any other tailors in that area? Even if just for a peek? I've heard there are a bunch of tailors within a few blocks of each other -- Arrigo, Coco, Veloce, Ragusa, Macchia, Savoca, Gorgone, etc.

    Would be curious to hear what you thought of their work.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2016
  13. Andy57

    Andy57 Well-Known Member

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    Indeed.
     
  14. bry2000

    bry2000 Well-Known Member

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    Wow. That is great value. Possibly cheaper than the LL Vacation option. Lol.
     
  15. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Well-Known Member

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    I'll post some pics of both jackets this weekend; if The weather is anything like it is today, the flannel should be relatively comfortable.

    The shoulder of them is different, as well as the sleeve treatment. Think of it as a representation of at least two styles that he can do.

    Didn't get a chance to visit any other tailors in Messina, but I did hear that Savoca is no longer working (at least his phone number isn't).
     
  16. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Well-Known Member

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    Looks like we owe our friend @SartodiNapoli an apology!!!
     
  17. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    There are a bunch of really affordable tailors all over Italy. The problem is always getting them to travel. Few are willing to go abroad, and those that do need to cover extra costs. And if they set their prices too low, they're at risk of bailing on customers once they lose one or two orders. Things can get unprofitable really fast if you don't have the right margins, which doesn't make things safe for customers.

    TBH, I don't get people who come on to this board and say "my local tailor in XYZ far away country charges half that!" That's great news if you live in that country, but does little for people who are halfway around the world.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  18. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Well-Known Member

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    This is cmt pricing I assume?
     
  19. SimonC

    SimonC Well-Known Member

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    But to me @UrbanComposition has the right approach. Go on vacation. Take long enough to give the tailor time to work. Be respectful, work with them, and stay close to their house style.

    It's when people start expecting smaller tailors to fly half way around the world, to meet clients who do not speak their language, and who have a different culture and expectations that things start to go wrong.
     
  20. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    That would definitely be more ideal, but also not terribly realistic unless you travel often (and presumably to the same city). If you live in the US and want bespoke clothes, traveling tailors are most likely your best option. Even in a city like NYC -- nevermind elsewhere.

    The US has been a big market for traveling tailors since the end of WWII, so it's not like there aren't reliable operations. It just gets more complicated for enthusiasts since they often want to try smaller houses.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2016

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