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Do you prefer your coats buttoned or unbuttoned

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by GuidoWongolini, May 21, 2009.

  1. Butterfly

    Butterfly Well-Known Member

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    A first rate jacket I find is tailored to hang easily with only an inch or two in the gap when unbuttoned, without looking either tight or sloppy, and buttons up without undue pulling.

    The fact is there is simply no rule to fall back on, other than what you feel most inclined for and what looks best with your own particular body and ensemble.
     
  2. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    A first rate jacket I find is tailored to hang easily with only an inch or two in the gap when unbuttoned, without looking either tight or sloppy, and buttons up without undue pulling.

    The fact is there is simply no rule to fall back on, other than what you feel most inclined for and what looks best with your own particular body and ensemble.


    well, most "designer" jackett has this feature, my Versace/Gucci suit jacket all hung really well without buttoning and no pulling when buttoned..., so I am not sure if this is always a good indication, quality wise.

    On the other hand, my St. Andrew jacket hung reasonably well when unbuttoned (that one is less structured to start with) but not to the same extend as my Versace jacket, kind made you wondering if Versace ask Zegna to sewn a piece of iron plate inside it...

    I think it has something to do with how nipped the waist is and where the middle button (if 3 button) or 1st button is. If it's fairly nipped on the waist, and the buttons are mid to high, they seem to remain that particular shape when buttoned, when they're low, the jacket "spread" out wider if you know what I mean.
     
  3. Parker

    Parker Well-Known Member

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    90% unbuttoned. But, I'm a "louche wastrel."
     
  4. eg1

    eg1 Well-Known Member

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    Well, it's never too late to correct this...unless you feel that people have photos.

    Hey, I'm not coming up with this on my own. The reaction is like the one with that kid that used to have the iron creased jeans and couldn't sit down on the ground.


    I knew it was OK to leave the jacket undone, but it never occurred to me that not to leave it undone would be wrong. It just feels weird to have a coat flapping around when I walk.

    I presume also that this applies to 3pc suits only, and not odd vests (either with a suit or sport jacket)? I like that only a small amount of the vest is visible when it is very different from the coat.
     
  5. kannoos

    kannoos Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
    Anthony Eden wearing the coat of his three piece suit buttoned.
     
  6. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

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    I knew it was OK to leave the jacket undone, but it never occurred to me that not to leave it undone would be wrong. It just feels weird to have a coat flapping around when I walk.

    I presume also that this applies to 3pc suits only, and not odd vests (either with a suit or sport jacket)? I like that only a small amount of the vest is visible when it is very different from the coat.


    Don't listen to Buffy...either is fine.

    - B
     
  7. earthdragon

    earthdragon Well-Known Member

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    I seem to be about 70/30 - 70 Unbuttoned.
     
  8. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG] Anthony Eden wearing the coat of his three piece suit buttoned.
    Thank you, this reinforces my point.
     
  9. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Don't listen to Buffy...either is fine.

    - B


    +1. Yet another made up rule from Buffy the Rule Slayer.
     
  10. Butterfly

    Butterfly Well-Known Member

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    +1. Yet another made up rule from Buffy the Rule Slayer.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Well-Known Member

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    I knew it was OK to leave the jacket undone, but it never occurred to me that not to leave it undone would be wrong. It just feels weird to have a coat flapping around when I walk. I presume also that this applies to 3pc suits only, and not odd vests (either with a suit or sport jacket)? I like that only a small amount of the vest is visible when it is very different from the coat.
    It's not wrong, it just looks prissy, uptight, anxious, checklist-bound petty bourgeois to a certain crowd and one more likely to notice what you're doing than even care about clothes themselves. Your coat shouldn't flap around that much when you walk, unless it's windy outside or your on a jet ski, in which case, button up. Look, if you don't care about that crowd, then you shouldn't worry. I would imagine that a SF convention might chastise you for not buttoning your three pc suit. However, there's more to be learned about when to do or not do something than, say, which style and shade of shoe to wear. I see a lot of people wearing clothes that are technically correct but fail on social signals. Where can I point a crowd that only believes it if it's in print? And then there's the democratic support group, don't listen to him? If that could only make it true or not. I have no reason to bring these matters up except to help out.
     
  12. kannoos

    kannoos Well-Known Member

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    Anthony Eden was "neurotic, nerdy, stiff and lower class"?
     
  13. Butterfly

    Butterfly Well-Known Member

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    Film Noir Buff's theoretical defense of his opinion is sensible; the opinion itself just happens to be hyperbolic, neurotic nonsense.


    It's no skin off my nose as I'd just as soon leave it unbuttoned.
     
  14. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Well-Known Member

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    Film Noir Buff's theoretical defense of his opinion is sensible in theory; the opinion itself just happens to be hyperbolic, neurotic nonsense.
    Only because you may be taking it personally and it is not MY opinion, it is an unwritten custom of sorts. But if you feel attacking me makes it not exist, then you shouldn't worry about it at all.
     
  15. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Well-Known Member

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    Anthony Eden was "neurotic, nerdy, stiff and lower class"?
    Gee what's that in his arms. an overcoat? Think it might be chilly enough to button your jacket outside? Not to mention he would be considered oddly stiff over here, I was referring to North America not England, not Singapore or anywhere else where you wear your jacket buttoned even wen on the commode [​IMG]
     
  16. TheDarkKnight

    TheDarkKnight Well-Known Member

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    Buttoned, it looks far better.

    I leave my top button of a 2 button jacket buttoned when seated also, this looks far better and is still comfortable
     
  17. Butterfly

    Butterfly Well-Known Member

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    Only because you may be taking it personally and it is not MY opinion, it is an unwritten custom of sorts. But if you feel attacking me makes it not exist, then you shouldn't worry about it at all.

    I'm not taking anything personally. Yes, it is an unwritten custom for some men to leave it unbuttoned and others to button up. I realize there's a certain vision of dress as a game of neurotic fratboy signal-mongering. When I see someone citing an unwritten custom and couching it in the most hyperbolic terms possible, it's pretty clear that someone is trying to invent a rule.
     
  18. kannoos

    kannoos Well-Known Member

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    All right, what about this:
    [​IMG][/IMG]
    He also has the bottom button of his jacket done up...
     
  19. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Well-Known Member

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    All right, what about this: [​IMG][/IMG] He also has the bottom button of his jacket done up...
    Probably to cover up his leg braces.
     
  20. centrix

    centrix Well-Known Member

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