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DIY Sport Coat with pics

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by inlandisland, Oct 4, 2011.

  1. inlandisland

    inlandisland Well-Known Member

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    I'm sure I'm stepping way beyond the realm of my ability, but since August I've been putting my spare time into my first attempt at making a sport coat. I am learning a lot in the process, but mainly developing an appreciation for the amounts of meticulous work and patience that are required.

    I am at a stage where it made sense ot take a few pictures, so I thought I would share them and add to the thread as I make progress.

    The shell is mainly done and the canvas is in. I have the facings cut, but still need to cut the rest of the lining, attatch them, and obviously set the sleeves.

    If the pics below are small, clicking on them should open the large version...

    Here is what the jacket looks like currently;
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    Here you can see some of the second-rate pad stitching and taping I've done on the lapels:
    [​IMG]
    The interior of the jacket:
    [​IMG]
    The back of the underside of the collar:
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    In this picture, you can see the layers of canvas, wool, and felt that make up the chest piece;
    [​IMG]

    Here are some (bad self-) pics of how it is fitting so far:
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    I'll return and post more pics when I make some significant progress. Thanks for viewing.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. joshuadowen

    joshuadowen Well-Known Member

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    What sort of sewing background did you have before undertaking this project?
     
  3. plei89

    plei89 Well-Known Member

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    Looking forward to seeing the progress!! :slayer:
     
  4. Katamar13

    Katamar13 Active Member

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    I'm also trying to teach myself to sew so this is relevant to my interests.
     
  5. luk-cha

    luk-cha Well-Known Member

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    WOW looks pretty good
     
  6. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Well-Known Member

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    I would tell you to post this on the Cutter & Tailor Forum for some more in-depth feedback, but they have a rule about not making a coat before starting with trousers and vests. They do have good reasons for this, but there is also something to be said for jumping in the deep-end; I also made a coat as my first project before the rule was instated and, although the result was a bit dodgy and not quite wearable, I learnt an awful lot in the process.

    I think you need to give the fronts a good press and pin the buttoning-point together so we can properly judge the fit, as well as taking pictures from the rear (and using a timer so you don't have to hold your arm up).

    What have you used to interface the collar? It looks like you've used the same canvas as the chest; you should really be using stiff collar (duck) linen for the collar.

    What system did you use to draft the pattern?
     
  7. soccerdude

    soccerdude Member

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    I am all for DIY, it takes a lot of time and effort but the money saved and the satisfaction of a job well done is all worth the effort. I do a lot of stuff around the house and yard such as building our back deck this summer and renovating our kitchen. It would take a different type of skill and patience I think to start making my own clothing but I think I would enjoy it. How did you get started?
     
  8. inlandisland

    inlandisland Well-Known Member

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    I started doing my own alterations on RTW, then made a few pairs of pants. Started a couple of years ago.
    Thanks guys. I will not be doing step by step posts, but I will probably do one update when I get the facings/lining and and sleeves done, then another for the finishing details.
    Thanks - yeah I don't have permission to post in the C&T advanced apprentice forum yet because I'm a hobbyist and I skipped over waistcoats... I have to get back to them - we'll see if I've got the right stuff or not. Thanks for your tips - I will keep an eye out for the linen you suggest - My resources are somewhat limted due to where I live though. You're right, by the way, it is the same as the body canvas - it's Pellon hair canvas.
    It's worth a try. :)
     
  9. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

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    Back On Here
    I like your attitude.
     
  10. MalfordOfLondon

    MalfordOfLondon Well-Known Member

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    +1. New plateau for DIY threads.

    Where do we go from here? I'm thinking medical procedures.
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2011
  11. Leonel Dante

    Leonel Dante Well-Known Member

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    I'm curious about the final result. Looking forward to see the enxt steps!
     
  12. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    indeed.
     
  13. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    lol, I'd just want to be able to cuff pants myself let alone this.
     
  14. davesmith

    davesmith Well-Known Member

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    Quote:
    +1 i am really considering taking a sewing course. learning to hem a pair of pants would save me a lot of money
     
  15. Benjamin E.

    Benjamin E. Well-Known Member

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    While you've got a ways to go, you seem to have an idea of what's going on, which is more that I could say for myself. Coatmaking is not easy and I really admire your determination. A few bits of advice: you have the collar and lapel sewn wrong at the gorge; they should overlap like this: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2709/4257180203_98fd1cb03b_o.jpg (photo credit to jefferyd)
    Note how the lapel is on top of the collar. Also, padstitch the collar from the other side. I like how you've switched the direction of the stitching at the point of the lapel.
    Good luck and I look forward to seeing it as you progress!
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2011
  16. inlandisland

    inlandisland Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys - tips are appreciated - there are so many things I don't know if I'm doing even remotely correctly... I am playing around with basting in the sleeves this week... I will try to get some more work done and pics up soon. In the mean time I have to deal with the results of my DIY deltoid implants. :rotflmao:
     
  17. inlandisland

    inlandisland Well-Known Member

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    Update with pics:

    Okay, so I've got a little more done - Deep systematic flaws rapidly becoming evident. Below are some pics of the facings/lining starting to go in and my first attempt at setting in the sleeves (I've immediately developed a much deeper appreciation of what JefferyD is talking about when he says that divots can be caused by the way the sleeve is set in the armhole - Yeeesh).

    [​IMG]
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  18. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

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    Try it on and take pics.
     
  19. inlandisland

    inlandisland Well-Known Member

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    Soon, soon... I should get lots of time to work on it over the weekend.
     
  20. NOBD

    NOBD Well-Known Member

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    I may have said this before, but: great project, inlandisland.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2011

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