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Determing cuff length and break

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by christian, Oct 27, 2004.

  1. christian

    christian Well-Known Member

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    I was wondering does the style of a suit determine such things as how much cuff you show and how much the pants break? I think Flusser said to show .5 inch, but if I have one of those unvented suits with a slimmer cut, would I want to have only a .25 showing, with only a slight break.
     
  2. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    I agree that slimmer trouers legs should take less break. Also, a half-inch break is pretty much an American thing. Most European tailors like the trouser cuff to rest on the shoe with just a slight break -- just enough so that the crease is not straight all the way down. Some Italians like no break at all. Fred Astaire used to wear his trousers short so he could show off his socks.
     
  3. christian

    christian Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, Maton. I knew you'd reply. So, if you are getting less of a break, then you also need to have the sleeves show less linen.
     
  4. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Well-Known Member

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    generally if the pants are tapered at the bottom or are just slim fitting to begin with, go with less break, or no break at all if you want to (the beatles '60s look.) as far as the shirt cuff, always show at least a little. how much is up to you.
     
  5. Get Smart

    Get Smart Well-Known Member

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    i only wear slimfit 60s styled trousers so it's no break or a bit short to expose sock for me. but if i were to wear "normal" trousers with a cuff, i'd go for a slight break.

    there's nothing more aesthetically annoying than seeing someone in trousers that are way too long so it bunches up at the ankles
     
  6. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    I don't think this is true. I would always show at least 1/2" of linen (maybe 3/8" if I were really short, 5/8" if really tall) no matter how full or narrow my trousers.
     

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