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Details magazine's anti-db rant

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Ambulance Chaser, Oct 22, 2004.

  1. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Well-Known Member

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    In its latest issue, Details magazines has a rant urging men to stop wearing double-breasted suits.  What do you think?  On a related note, does double breasted work for sports coats, or should one stick to single breasted?
     
  2. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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  3. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Well-Known Member

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    While I would hesitate to follow advice from Details for a number of reasons... I think many people are not able to pull off a DB suit. I wear them fairly infrequently because I sometimes get the "trying too hard" vibe from them, and sometimes it's just blah... I can see some people pulling off the look and looking quite elegant but...

    I recently interviewed a bunch of candidates for a fairly high level position here and one candidate showed up with a DB suit and paisley tie, and I just wasn't feeling it, maybe it goes back to grad school and one professor that could always be found sporting a navy DB blazer that just screamed academic...
     
  4. hermes

    hermes Well-Known Member

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    i believe the article actually said that unless you're tall and thin, a db will essentially look like you're wrapped in a bolt of fabric instead of wearing a suit and as such, big husky fat men would do themselves a lot of good by avoiding a db
     
  5. globetrotter

    globetrotter Well-Known Member

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    I wear DB's about half the time. I think that it looks very powerful, very elegant, myself. A very, very common london city boy look is the striped DP in dark gray or black.

    I am shaped more or less like a fire plug, and I find that it covers up a lot of my weaknesses and emphasizes my very few positive points - my shoulders, my chest, my neck. It seems to give me a little hieght, too,

    on the other hand, I may be imagining it, and it may simply make me look like a sausage.
     
  6. Renault78law

    Renault78law Well-Known Member

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    i think that double-breasted suits are the height of elegance only if fitted properly. it's much easier to pull off an ill-fitting single breasted suit than double. with so many button arrangements, i think a DB suit could theoretically look great on anyone.
     
  7. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Well-Known Member

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    The individual in question was relatively short and rotund and I got the impression the DB suit enhanced those characteristics... add in the tie and I got a distinctly unfavorable impression from his clothing. It may be shallow but when candidates have similar qualifications...
     
  8. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Well-Known Member

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    Unless you're interviewing for a job as Pat Riley's personal assistant, a DB suit for an interview is a bad idea no matter what you look like.  I have one DB suit in my wardrobe that I like to wear as a change of pace.
     
  9. Kai

    Kai Well-Known Member

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    A properly fitted DB suit can look very nice. DB suits will still be here long after Details has gone away, I should think.

    I love DB suits. I own three of them. In my opinion, the DB suit is a timeless classic.
     
  10. justlurkingthanks

    justlurkingthanks Well-Known Member

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    A DB is good on a slim or not-fat guy. The problem is the double-breasted abomination that buttons only on the bottom button -- those things are hideous and will always mean "Chess King" to me. (If you were not sentient in the '70s and very early '80s, that reference means nothing.)

    The good DB is the one where you can button two of the three. That's an elegant look, the Prince Charles thing.
     
  11. water

    water Well-Known Member

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    I agree with a lot of what has already been said... I think a DB suit looks fine if it is a slim cut worn by a thin guy.

    On a larger gentleman it really looks like a case of "who is hiding all the pies?"
     
  12. imageWIS

    imageWIS Well-Known Member

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    Um...what?

    DB suits are not formalwear, SB is. White tie is SB, black tie is traditionally SB, tails are traditionally SB; so from whence did people acquire the notion the DB was elegant / formal wear ?

    Naturally, the assumption is that when people discuss jackets they are speaking of primarily sports coats / blazers / suits which is fine, except when you completely disregard the entire usage and history of the DB whilst attacking the entire usage of one particularly important segment of the DB as a whole.

    I will note that the DB tuxedo is a look that is quite an attractive proposition if properly worn and cut on the right-sized / shaped man.

    Furthermore, since when have people on this forum really paid attention to what outsiders insist is the correct form of action regarding sartorial dress? Especially when even Flusser's ideas and "˜rules' are questioned and minutely scrutinized?

    Jon.
     
  13. jcusey

    jcusey Well-Known Member

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    No, this isn't correct. A tailcoats no longer button; but they have three buttons on each side, which indicates that they are derived from a double-breasted coat. If we accept that the first tuxedo was made by cutting the tails off of a tailcoat, that means that semiformal dress derives from a double-breasted coat.
     
  14. jcusey

    jcusey Well-Known Member

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    It's not necessarily an abomination. It all depends on cut. Those low-slung things from the '80s certainly are, but take a look at a picture of the Duke of Kent and tell me that it can't be elegant.
     
  15. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Well-Known Member

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    Should anyone doubt the elegance and style of the DB suit, look no further than clarinetplayer's pictures...classic, man.

    I have a pic of me in a brioni DB glen plaid on here somewhere, but the pic isn't very clear/ sharp.
     
  16. Alias

    Alias Well-Known Member

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    I agree with Renault78law in that a DB, when properly fitted, will look elegant. I disagree with the notion that DB suits are best worn by slim guys. Look at the picture of Dr. Bresch wearing his DB jacket by Centofanti.

    I think bespoke DB suits will look a lot better than RTW ones. There are so many things you can get wrong with the fitting and the cut, and that's what probably throws off a lot of people, because the DB suit that fits badly or is not cut to the form of the wearer will indeed look like crap.
     
  17. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

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    I'm fairly tall, but no longer thin-- and some of my best suits are double-breasted. I've found, however, that really structured jackets don't work with me any longer. Anderson & Sheppard is the thing. Soft, wide shoulders and the most discreet waist suppression. Feels like running around in pajamas, and is somewhat slimming.

    I don't have any DB sport coats, but I'm getting close to biting. Possible candidates: white silk (for use with four-in-hands or just open collar shirts, to double as a dinner jacket on occasion), silk/linen tweed, or maybe even an 11-ounce Porter & Harding tweed suit, to be mixed and matched on weekends. I also have a blue crush-proof tropical suit that may be nearing retirement. When that happens, I'm doing over the buttons in blue MOP and calling it a summer blazer.
     
  18. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Well-Known Member

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    I'm tired of defending DB suits; it's still my favourite cut (6X2) and I enjoy wearing them on a regular basis.

    koji
     
  19. bosthist

    bosthist Active Member

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    Quote (Ambulance Chaser @ 22 Oct. 2004, 12:18)
    In its latest issue, Details magazines has a rant urging men to stop wearing double-breasted suits.

    *****

    I think Details magazine will publish a rant praising double breasted suits in its next issue. Having Details magazine lecture someone on style is like listening to Alex Rodriguez give a lecture on how to be a winner.
     
  20. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Well-Known Member

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    Foxx, you should send your Brioni pic to Details. You raising that glass of scotch to the camera really says, "F-off Details."
     

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