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Dealing with Orphans

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Patek14, Jan 10, 2010.

  1. Patek14

    Patek14 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Nov 28, 2009
    I have been told that years ago suit manufacturers used to include 2 sets of trousers with each jacket. I have never seen this practice today and I assume it mostly ended long before I started wearing suits. That said, I'll probably wreck all my trousers long before my jackets so how do you all deal with orphans? For example:

    1) Can you contact the manufacturer or thier retail boutiques and purchase a second set of pants? I've read that even if you get the same cloth/model it won't be from the same loom and might not match perfectly.

    2) In the event you wreck the pants, would a simple button conversion (to say, slightly off colored horn) conceal to most everyone the orhpan origins assuming you have a staple color solid suit?

    3) What do you do with your pin and chalk stripe suits when the trousers are no longer good but the jacket is fine?
     
  2. Macallan

    Macallan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    837
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2010
    Location:
    London
    Ede & Ravenscroft sell suits with spare trousers.

    Anyone who buys suit separates as a suit or comissions MTM/bespoke should purchase spare trousers. The exceptions could be for suits not worn that often; e.g, dinner suit, suit for fancy evenings, winter/summer suit, etc.
    Second trousers also help with costs, 2 suits with spare trousers will be cheaper than 4 suits.


    1. Even if available as suit separates, there could be a difference. I have purchased a suit separates as a set, with a gap between purchasing the trousers and jacket; however, I think they were part of the same stock.

    2. You do not need to change button. Many people have plain black, grey and or navy trousers; therefore, people should not know that they are orphans, especially if worn with a different colour jacket. For example, wearing an orphaned med-grey trousers with a dark brown sports jacket.

    3. This can be tricky, it is easy if the trousers are orphaned. You could add patches, if chalk stripes but if the jacket is pinstriped with small gaps between stripes then you will be stuck.
    You could try to make the jacket more fancy by changing buttons, and depending on value changing lining; however, this depends on the jacket. If would be a lot easier to do this on a grey jacket than a black jacket.
     
  3. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    I have been told that years ago suit manufacturers used to include 2 sets of trousers with each jacket. I have never seen this practice today and I assume it mostly ended long before I started wearing suits. That said, I'll probably wreck all my trousers long before my jackets so how do you all deal with orphans? For example:

    1) Can you contact the manufacturer or thier retail boutiques and purchase a second set of pants? I've read that even if you get the same cloth/model it won't be from the same loom and might not match perfectly.

    2) In the event you wreck the pants, would a simple button conversion (to say, slightly off colored horn) conceal to most everyone the orhpan origins assuming you have a staple color solid suit?

    3) What do you do with your pin and chalk stripe suits when the trousers are no longer good but the jacket is fine?


    you are right, but two trouser suits died in the 60s.
    #1 yes thats right, but only the higher priced makers keep end peices of cloth.
    #2 sorry that rarely works.
    #3 you buy those suits either custom or m2m and order 2 trousers.
    in fact my dad had a customer that ordered 4 pair with each jacket.
    he was an engineer that wore a suit out in the field.
     
  4. Patek14

    Patek14 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    324
    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2009
    you are right, but two trouser suits died in the 60s.
    #1 yes thats right, but only the higher priced makers keep end peices of cloth.
    #2 sorry that rarely works.
    #3 you buy those suits either custom or m2m and order 2 trousers.
    in fact my dad had a customer that ordered 4 pair with each jacket.
    he was an engineer that wore a suit out in the field.


    What are we defining as higher priced makers? Brioni/Kiton level? Or HF/Corneliani level? Something in between?
     
  5. ferguscan

    ferguscan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    647
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    Jan 23, 2009
    If the coat is black or charcoal, you can also pair it with "formal" trousers in black/white cashmere stripes, houndstooth, and some check patterns. Awesome look.

    Stuart
     
  6. coltboy75

    coltboy75 Well-Known Member

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    Jul 29, 2009
    I have only had one MTM suit made. The tailor recommended two pairs of trousers for the very reason state by the OP. I did one with a single pleat, cuffed. The other I did was flat front without a cuff. Not only do I see the benefits long term of the two trousers, but the contrasting style of trousers gives me a different options.
     
  7. globetrotter

    globetrotter Well-Known Member

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    greater chicago
    I have always bought 2 pair, and I am thinking of going to 3 pair
     
  8. ricotta

    ricotta Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2009
    I have always bought 2 pair, and I am thinking of going to 3 pair

    same. it's a large factor for me actually, so i always check. i just bought a mid-range italian OTR and had two pairs of trousers made because the original pair wasn't working.
     
  9. in fits of print

    in fits of print Well-Known Member

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    Sep 11, 2009
    Location:
    Brooklyn, NY
    Orphans! Just carry a sturdy walking stick or umbrella at hand to frighten them off with, and keep close watch on your coin-purse and hand-kercheifs! They work in pairs. But be watchful for the long-lost brats of Dukes and tycoons, who return without fail to thwart your schemes just as they come to fruition.
     
  10. Tomasso

    Tomasso Well-Known Member

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    Are you thinking of urchins?
     
  11. in fits of print

    in fits of print Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    Are you thinking of urchins?

    The intersection is considerable.
     
  12. ricotta

    ricotta Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Oct 10, 2009
    chase them with a stick when they ask for more porridge.
     
  13. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 3, 2008
    Location:
    Princeton, NJ
    chase them with a stick when they ask for more porridge.

    I'm nominating you for best avatar while orphan-joke making.
     
  14. NH_Clark

    NH_Clark Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Sep 8, 2008
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    Orphans! Just carry a sturdy walking stick or umbrella at hand to frighten them off with, and keep close watch on your coin-purse and hand-kercheifs! They work in pairs. But be watchful for the long-lost brats of Dukes and tycoons, who return without fail to thwart your schemes just as they come to fruition.

    I say put those little fuckers to work.. or at a minimum shine shoes
     
  15. pejsek

    pejsek Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jul 3, 2004
    I prefer the subversion of the cautiously thrifty two-pant paradigm. A couple years back I found a Henry Poole chalk stripe suit consisting of one pair of pants and two jackets (sb and db). Much more bang for the buck (and thrifty in a possibly spendthrift way), but then I've yet to experience the heartbreak of wearing out a pair of pants. People have a lot more clothes than they did fifty years ago.
     

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